Battery cable with fusible link built in?

[WalkaboutTed]

I'm in the midst of getting cables for solar, inverter, grounds, etc cetera.  I have 2 gauge cables for the 1100 watt inverter and I was looking at the package.  I was planning to cut it and add fuse and then I noticed the package mentioning the fusible link in the cable.  Whuh?  Am I going to screw it up putting a fuse in?  How many amps will it take to burn the fusible link? I was gonna put an 150 amp inline fuse on the cable.  Or is a fuse going into the inverter absolutely necessary if the fusible link will do the job? I would rather not go through the hassle of cutting the cable and putting terminals on it if I don't have to. Aside from the fact that I would have to buy the terminals on top of everything else. I don't mind trashing the fusible links on the cable if that will protect the circuit and alert me to a problem.

I hadn't heard of that before (but then again, this is all new to me in any case). Please enlighten me, anybody, and thank you in advance. Ted

 

[ArtW]

A fusible link is a bit of sacrificial wire in the run of the cable, on older cars (no idea on the new models) there was one in the wire connecting the hot wire from the battery to the positive terminal on the starter
whether it'll do for a fuse in this case I'll leave for those who know more about house batteries and wire gauges than me

 

[John61CT]

AKA fuse link, google will show suppliers.

ANL fuses work well for big wiring, not too pricey.

For marine, Blue Sea Ignition Protected, otherwise plain ​Cooper Bussmann is respected.

 

[SternWake]

I've not seen fusible link come pre installed on battery cable before.

If you want to shorten it and keep the fusible link, do so. You will not need an additional fuse

if you want to employ your additional fuse, you can, but it would be redundant and add some Unnecessary resistance to the inverter cable.

 

[WalkaboutTed]

Got it at the AutoZone around the corner. It was the only 2 awg cable they had. I'd a been happy with a 4 gauge, but then I wouldn't be able to use my 800 watt Keurig type machine. I never understood it until I became addicted to it. Absolutely perfect every cup.
Mmmm!

I'll look at the package tomorrow, it's out front, in the van. Now I can return that $11.95 fuse and the $6.95 fuseholder I bought at Amazon. Every little bit helps.

 

[SternWake]

Autoparts stores sell SAE cable.

It is 6 to 12% thinner than AWG.

The ring terminals are steel. Here are some sticking to a magnet. Steel makes for a poor conductor on a ring terminal.

Cables with such ring terminals are generally quite poor. At high inverter loads the ring terminal will likely get hot and resistive. The ring terminal will quickly deevelop corrosion and more resistance

I'd return the AZ cable, and keep the fuse and holder, and get some real AWG cable with real tined copper thick wall ring terminals instead.

http://www.genuinedealz.com/custom-cables

 

[WalkaboutTed]

I'll probably do that. The inverter is the last thing I will install in my system.

 

[SternWake]

Oops forgot to add photo:

 

[ccbreder]

Return those cheap cables. GenuineDealz is the place to get real cables. They also have a amp/voltage chart so you select the proper AWG cable for your need. When it comes to 12 volts, bigger is better.

 

[WalkaboutTed]

So, just for yucks this morning and went out to check my not so cheap AutoZone cable. Yes, it is ferrous. I probably would have used it, save for the fact that I'll regularly be running an 800 watt coffee machine on it (provided enough juice from sun or driving).

I then went online to the genuinedealz site. I ended up calling because I had problems ordering with both my phone and tablet (I try to avoid using my laptop because it's a pain). I called these folks and spoke to Jessica. She said that is not unusual that customers have problems ordering via the site.

I was able to order by phone and with the four terminals and heatshrink, the price ended up just $10 more than just the one AutoZone cable. . It was actually two cables so I can put in my ANL fuse easily. They will both fabricate and mail them out tomorrow and the shipping is free. It was a very easy process with almost instant gratification!

Thanks for the heads up,
Ted

http://www.genuinedealz.com/custom-cables

 

[Trebor English]

It happens sometimes that when a fusible link goes open the replacement is just plain wire.  Mechanics aren't always aware of the details about electrical things.  A separate fuse that is blown will probably be replaced with a fuse.

 

[GotSmart]

It is hard to find FL wire.  This is the only source I have found that has different sizes in stock.  I had to buy a 4 foot length when all I needed was 9 inches.  I have a lot of spare!  Only $10.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/search/re...ords=fusable+link+wire&ie=UTF8&qid=1484773399

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

In general, fusible links were used back in the days of glass fuses, because there were none bigger than 40 amps, and there were no bigger fuses except the expensive industrial ones, hence the fusible wire, since it was a lot cheaper.  Modern cars use maxi fuses, and I'd be surprised if there were any fusible links still used.  I've certainly never heard of or seen fusible links built into battery cables, and I sold auto parts for over 30 years.

 

[rvpopeye]

The fusible link is created by adding a piece of plain wire 4 wire guages smaller than the wire being protected.
It will melt before the wire being protected , kind of a slo-blow fuse it will take a short surge but interrupt the circuit on a dead short...........
So a 6 AWG wire fusible link is 10 AWG .
A 10 AWG wire fusible link is 14 AWG .

 

[WalkaboutTed]

Yeah, it was interesting that the package had instructions for two installations, one with the fusible link intact and the other if it had already melted. I thought it was kinda strange, hence my original query. Thanks to all of you. This forum has helped our conversion immensely, even when I was just lurking.
Ted

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

The fusible link is created by adding a piece of plain wire 4 wire guages smaller than the wire being protected.
It will melt before the wire being protected , kind of a slo-blow fuse it will take a short surge but interrupt the circuit on a dead short...........
So a 6 AWG wire fusible link is 10 AWG .
A 10 AWG  wire fusible link is 14 AWG .

Also, the insulation on the fusible link must safely resist the heat of the fusible link melting . . .

 

[rvpopeye]

Oh yes , which makes it incredibly hard to find too !
(pulling from both ends sometimes works if you can't remove it and use a meter)

 

[GotSmart]

Also, the insulation on the fusible link must safely resist the heat of the fusible link melting . . .

[font=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif] rvpopeye -
[/font]

Oh yes , which makes it incredibly hard to find too !
(pulling from both ends sometimes works if you can't remove it and use a meter)

Usually.   To tell if it is burned, feel if it is hard and crunchy!   :idea:

When mine went, it produces a spectacular amount of smoke.  

None of the other wires in that area were ruined.  I just needed to be creative about putting things back together.  A hydraulic crimper and liquid tape did the trick.

 

[rvpopeye]

Another bit of road experience under the 'ol belt !