As far as how much solar and battery capacity you actually need, it is entirely dependent on how much your devices actually draw and how long you run them. Any online outfit is not going to be magically able to pinpoint what you need, as they do not know, can;t know, and just have their bottom line in mind when they make any recommendation.
Better to have too much than too little. I'll guess you need at least 100Ah of battery and at least 100watts of solar, just for the laptop, not including the other loads.
You'd be better off with a pair of golf cart batteries in series and 200+ watts of solar, and this will allow you to handle your increased electrical loads as you live this lifestyle, upto a point.
The 23 dollars you could spend on the P3 kill a watt, to measure actual consumption on the devices you plan on running, might save you hundreds in doing it correctly the first time, rather than the guess and hope method.
There is lots of experience here on this forum as to what works and where( x amount of solar) is enough. Lots of threads about how to hook it all up. Many Newb's want a all in one kit. These kits are not really well matched parts, usually overpriced, and usually still require this that or the other thing for completion to functionality.
When having enough electrical power is required not only for work time, but comfort, then 'just enough' is usually only that, in ideal conditions.
There are three main charging sources in this lifestyle. Solar, Alternator and grid powered charger. How well all three of these can fully charge the battery(s) is filled with if's ands and Butts, and all these variables are still wide open, without actual data, as to how much your devices are actually going to draw, and how much battery you need to power them for the duration you need to use them, and how much charging you need to keep the battery happy enough, to live an acceptable lifespan, are giant unknown variables.
A power Audit is necessary, and the easiest most accurate way to do that is with the Kill a watt with a power strip plugged into it, and all your devices plugged into the power strip for the period of time you expect to use them in when on wheels..
It will give you a kwH figure at the end of those 8 hours. Divide Kwh by 12 for the Amp hours. If this falls in the 50 range, then you need, at minimum, a 100Ah battery and at least 140 watts of solar on a good sunny day to replenish that amount.
Really that would be 'just enough' in Ideal conditions, so planning for twice that capacity and even more solar can have you acquire s system that has more than enough to keep a safety buffer and not continuously draw the battery to below 50%.
A battery regularly drawn to 50% and below, is a punch drunk battery, and will keel over if not given time to sober up, meaning a true full recharge over the time required to actually achieve that.
Do you know what vehicle you have to install this solar onto? how much it can actually fit? This is a considerable limiting factor.
If you have to replace the battery every 8 months, and be stressed out on months 6 and 7, is this acceptable? if it is, then you can certainly get away with less, but if it is not, then much more consideration needs to be put toward an energy Audit, and application of the three main charging sources to get the battery(s) as full as possible whenever possible.
Intended Aux Battery location is another consideration, as wet flooded batteries offgass when charging in the 80%+ range, and this can be a significant issue for some, and inconsequential for some others, with strong chest thumping tarzan yelling opinions on either side.
Generally if one wants the battery inside the living space with them, AGM batteries are the way to go, and AGM batteries recharge requirements to achieve acceptable lifespans( as they cost 2 or 3x as much) must be taken into consideration.
The other option is enclosing the wet battery and venting it to the exterior of the vehicle.
Third is just not worrying about the potentially explosive offgassing. When Charging at the higher states of charge hydrogen and oxygen eascape, and take a sulfuric acid mist with them as they exit the cell caps.
I can smell this from quite a distance away. Some others claim never to and/or just do not care.
Batteries do not off gass when discharging. Gassing voltages are usually around the 14.2+ range when still charging. Once the flooded battery gets here upto this voltage when charging, it bubbles, and it needs to, to actually reach a true 100% recharge. Do not listen to those that claim a 'properly' charged battery will not offgass. The slower the rate at which the battery is charged, can reduce the time and amount of offgassing, but not eliminate it.
When the next discharge begins late afternoon, charging too slow is akin to shooting oneself in the foot.
Getting the battery to absorption voltage by 11AM should be the goal, so that the solar has enough time to complete the task before the sun gets too low, and it will take a further 2 to 4 hours to actually get the battery in the 98% charged range, and that last 2 percent can take that much time again, especially if the battery is less than healthy and has not seen a true 100% recharge in a while.
It should be noted much of what I write is for ideal battery longevity as Ideal should at least be known, if not sought. One can shoot for less than ideal if less than maximum battery longevity is acceptable. But there is a point where too little means a battery whose capacity declines so rapidly that it fails quickly, and in the time before total failure, the battery is not storing enough electricity to meet the users demands.
Ideal is a very small window, but less than Ideal has a huge wide range with varying implications as to battery life and ability to power what one needs to. The 'Just fine' range should be quantified when it is claimed, with the amount of time it appears to be 'just fine', as one day it is, then next, maybe not.