Bee, expect a 1.8 cubic foot Danfoss powered fridge to use about 1 amp hour per hour at 75f ambient. Unless I load mine with warm items, mine rarely ever exceeds this figure and is more like .75a/h per hour, but I have added extra insulation and the condenser fan pulls cooler air from the floor below and can't recycle heated air. This is apparently the best way to ensure maximum efficiency, making sure the compressor and condenser are adequately ventilated and not sitting in a compartment that they themselves have heated.<br><br>While it is true that AGM's can accept much higher charging currents, I do not know how much faster they are going to reach full charge compared to a flooded battery. Once the voltage gets into the mid 14's on either type battery, only enough amps required to hold that voltage level are going to be produced by the charging source. Whether higher amps are going to be required by the AGM to hold 14.x volts is unknown by me, but with their lower internal resistance, I think they might even require less amps to hold 14.x volts than a flooded. Not sure.<br><br>The AGM will be able to take more amperage until 14.x is reached, but this might not translate into a big difference in recharge times. Some battery Nazi's on Rv.net found no significant difference in the amount of time required to return the same amount of amp hours comparing AGM to flooded.<br><br>Also if Adequate cabling is used from alternator to AGM battery, a depleted AGM battery can ask the alternator for everything it can make at every rpm, and vastly shortening the life of the alternator, and in this scenario the AGM will recharge faster at the expense of alternator longevity and MPG, as it requires 1 engine HP for each 25 amps the alternator produces.<br><br>Regardless, most people do overestimate their alternator contribution and battery state of charge, and underestimate how much battery power they use. Using a grid powered charger weekly to ensure a 100% recharge is the best thing one can do for battery longevity and best performance. The alternator is extremely bad at returning a depleted battery to 100%, but does good upto the 80% level is the rpms are sufficient(not idling).<br><br>While My batteries are under the body, with an access hatch from above, I am considering AGM replacements as checking the water levels is kind of a PITA, and last summer I put it off too long and let them get too low, reducing the battery capacity and ultimately longevity.<br><br>Also while I have room for 2 group 27's,(230 a/h) I find I do not really need this much capacity with 200 watts of solar on the roof. <br><br>I am looking at weight reduction as my around town mileage is pretty poor with all the weight I can stuff into my Van, and the batteries are a good way to remove weight.<br><br>My van apparently requires only a 550 CCA to start the engine, but can fit a flooded battery capable of 850 CCA. I could put in a smaller lighter AGM battery there and save myself ~ 20 lbs of battery weight right there. My engine battery never sees any house loads and never gets discharged so a smaller capacity battery there with enough cranking amps is all that is required, and all AGM batteries have significantly higher CCA ratings than their similarly sized flooded counterparts.<br><br>Do note CCA ratings do not indicate battery capacity, only cranking power.<br><br>Beware of marine batteries that claim deep cycle. True 12volt deep cycle batteries are a rare breed and are 30% more expensive, but if treated properly will last much more than 30% longer than a similarly treated marine/rv/"deepcycle" that are easily obtainable.<br><br>The Golf Cart batteries ensure deep cycle construction and ability to handle and recover from deep discharges that will degrade a 12 volt marine battery much faster.