Adding to a Renology solar kit.

[John61CT]

Being "handy" is not a guy thing, nor does experience in one category transfer to another.

Learn to DIY be independent. Main key is being willing to give it a go.

 

[John61CT]

And no, only thing 'easier' about a kit is not having to choose a controller, which was never hard anyway.

 

[QinReno]

My buddy has been helping me build the van, but just told me he doesn't understand the solar electric kit now that he has seen it. He is a fairly mechanical guy, but not an expert and even less so when it comes to electricity. I got the idea that the Renology kits were fairly simple for someone handy at fixing things. Is that incorrect?
I got the thing and he is ready to help, but does not feel comfortable at all with the wiring.

Which specific solar kit are you looking at? Usually straightforward hookup. John is always suggesting FLA, but you definitely need to add venting in a closed up van.

 

[GeorgiePorgie]

Which specific solar kit are you looking at? Usually straightforward hookup. John is always suggesting FLA, but you definitely need to add venting in a closed up van.

I'm pretty sure my friend can put in the vent. I intended to do it later in the process, but it looks like it needs to be done before using the batteries.. He really seems confused about the wiring and such though. This is the kit that I received yesterday:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BCRG22A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

He thinks that each device needs different voltage, but I think all the 12 volt devices will plug in to some sort of electrical outlet and the 120 volt items will need an inverter. Is that correct?

 

[QinReno]

Yeah, see the diagram, easy to hookup. You don't have the inverter with the kit so just the 4 wires.
- https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61NyTgRbg5L._SL1000_.jpg

All you have to do is get the +/- polarities correct, but just like with jumper cables in a car. The connectors have polarized plugs, so only one way to insert. The little Y-adapters allow the 2 solar panels to be connected in parallel, but you cannot connect them incorrectly.

The wires are no doubt all black, so you have to be sure which is positive for connecting to the charger controller. It's not clear if the extensions cables have polarity indicated. I would recommend going to Home Depot/etc and buying a DMM, digital multimeter.
- https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dawson-Compact-Digital-Multimeter-DDM420/206051362

The instructions probably say to connect the battery to the controller first before connecting the solar panels.

 

[GeorgiePorgie]

Yeah, see the diagram, easy to hookup. You don't have the inverter with the kit so just the 4 wires.
- https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61NyTgRbg5L._SL1000_.jpg

All you have to do is get the +/- polarities correct, but just like with jumper cables in a car. The connectors have polarized plugs, so only one way to insert. The little Y-adapters allow the 2 solar panels to be connected in parallel, but you cannot connect them incorrectly.

The wires are no doubt all black, so you have to be sure which is positive for connecting to the charger controller. It's not clear if the extensions cables have polarity indicated. I would recommend going to Home Depot/etc and buying a DMM, digital multimeter.
- https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dawson-Compact-Digital-Multimeter-DDM420/206051362

The instructions probably say to connect the battery to the controller first before connecting the solar panels.

Thanks much! That seems simple enough to me. I'm not sure what he was looking at that was so confusing. I haven't even opened the box yet.

 

[QinReno]

Thanks much! That seems simple enough to me. I'm not sure what he was looking at that was so confusing. I haven't even opened the box yet.

I would take it out of the box and look at the cables in regards polarity being marked. You will need the batteries before hooking it all up. You can get various 12V connectors to hook to the battery side, but it's easy to get a 120VAC inverter and just plug in normal things like a lamp (with 120VAC LED bulb) and your laptop. Smallish inverters like 300W pure sinewave only cost $50-80 on amazon. 

The main thing is to always double check polarities before connecting wires, so the DMM is good assurance for that.

 

[bigskybob]

100 watt panels are for sale on ebay for $90 with free shipping.4 panels and a 30 amp pwm controller and you are in business for less than $400.Of course,you would still need a couple of batteries($200) and a small inverter ($50).Not too bad,to have elec when you want it.

 

[bigskybob]

If you are near me,I'll help you hook it up.I'm just south of Branson Mo.

 

[AuricTech]

GP, given the panels that came with the kit you now own, you'll get much better performance by upgrading to an MPPT charge controller when you eventually add more solar panels. I'm not just trying to spend your money :angel:  ; Renogy's standard 100W mono panels have an unusually high Voltage rating, with a correspondingly low Amp rating. As a result, a PWM charge controller "throws away" more power than it would with lower-Voltage, higher-Amp panels.

 

[John61CT]

Renogy's standard 100W mono panels have an unusually high Voltage rating, with a correspondingly low Amp rating. As a result, a PWM charge controller "throws away" more power than it would with lower-Voltage, higher-Amp panels.

Another way of saying that:

When you want to upgrade to MPPT, the fact that Renogy's modern design panels are a little higher voltage is very valuable.

With old school "12V" panels, you're basically stuck with PWM, or need to put them in series to get MPPT to work.

If you were starting off with say Victron MPPT, I'd advise to look for "24V" panels, anywhere up to say 65V for their low cost 75/15 model.

That will give the MPPT algorithm more room to extract the most increased power output per rated watt, compared to PWM.