Adding an Auxiliary Battery

[GotSmart]

http://www.amazon.com/product-reviews/B00ATXERNO/ref=acr_search_see_all?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1

Look at this inverter.  Inexpensive and will work on your laptop.

No need to spend money for a future use now.  I have everything hardwired in my system and am set for upgrades.  BUT~~~ I have the knowledge, experience, and tools to do things.  For me all I have to do is run a wire to the fuse box.

 

[ccbreder]

Energizer labeled. Reviewers said it didn't work on their Mac.

 

[GotSmart]

Energizer labeled. Reviewers said it didn't work on their Mac.

   So much for that one.  Good catch.

 

[bgq007]

What do we think about these batteries? 

http://www.solar-electric.com/concorde-sunxtender-pvx-1290t.html/

 

[SternWake]

What do we think about these batteries? 

http://www.solar-electric.com/concorde-sunxtender-pvx-1290t.html/

Concorde also is the manufacturer of LifeLine AGM batteries, and these are seriously high quality AGM batteries.  If you look at the design of the casing, it is nearly exactly the same as Lifeline, at least in pictures.  The difference I can see, is how the terminals leave the casing on top.

But Lifeline charge recommendations is a recommended 20% rate, or 20 amps per 100AH of storage.  Which is well in excess of the 1 watt per 1 AH of capacity recommendation.  Really it is closer to 4 watts to 1AH capacity.

A battery designed for solar applications would in theory, not require huge recharging rates, So I Hope the SunExtender line by Concorde is more friendly in this regard than LifeLine.

However I am not sure the Sun Extender is not just a Lifeline AGM with a different sticker.

When one clicks on the SunExtender tech manual PDF, it appears exactly the same as the Lifeline AGM PDF but with different headers.

So I believe, without proof, that Sunextender and the Lifelines are one and the same and the sunextender Label is simply marketing.

All AGMs benefit from occasional higher amp recharges from a depleted state.  Bob knows of someone who subjected his lifelines to a low and slow solar only recharge for a year, and they needed the prescribed 'reconditioning' procedure detailed in the tech manual PDF's.

Treat Concorde's AGMs according to their Spec Sheet, and I don't think they can be beat.  Feed them by low and slow solar only, cycle after cycle,, and they will die as quick a death as a battery 1/3rd their price.

I currently have a New Lifeline GPL-31XT in my possession, though it is not mine.  I load tested to 50% state of charge, at a higher discharge rate than which it earned its 125AH rating, and the voltage with the load removed, rebounded much higher than expected and higher than what Lifeline said it should.  I was very impressed.

When fully charged, it holds well in excess of 13.05 volts.  I took 8 AH from it and it still read 13.07v a week later.

Heck of a battery, but perhaps not for a low and slow solar only recharge application.  Feed it a higher rate with the alternator or a plug in charger every so many cycles from a depleted state, and it will be happier.  How happy is hard to say.

The Concorde / Lifeline/ Sunextender Tech manual is a very good read for anybody who is going to live on battery power:

http://www.solar-electric.com/lib/wind-sun/techmanual.pdf

http://www.lifelinebatteries.com/manual.pdf

 

[bgq007]

OK... And what about http://www.batterystuff.com/all-products-by-brand/scorpion/sp250-12.html ?

Especially if we assume I am probably going to screw this up... lol

 

[SternWake]

How much battery capacity do you need? Can you move a 167 LB battery to where it needs to go?

Mainesail seems to think no 8d or 4d battery is anything but a starting battery, despite how they are marketed.

Many Newb's get too much battery capacity for the warm and fuzzy feelings, then have too little Solar to recharge it properly at the rate it desires. This is even more important with AGM's, not to tickle them to death with too little charging current.

It is not just about replacing amp hours used + a % more for happy healthy batteries. A nicely balanced system will yield better longevity than just this and that slapped together.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/deep_cycle_battery

 

[bgq007]

Ah ok.. That link was a nice read. I should be looking for a GC2 type battery and according to the poster, 6v (2x) will give me better bang for my buck.

I was looking at http://www.wholesalesolar.com/products.folder/battery-folder/upg-ub-gc2.html and http://www.amazon.com/Amstron-Golf-Cart-Marine-Battery/dp/B00BISE6MG ...

When we put batteries in serial, the v double and so do the Amps correct? So a 200mah 6V when combined with a second battery (equal) would be 400mah?

I am not sure I would need that much. The number I had been seeing was that I should shoot for 200mah for a basic system. I don't mind having more, but do I end up wasting my money by misusing the batteries?

Also, I have pretty much decided that the batteries are going to have to be installed in the van living area with no dedicated ventilation. Are these going to be safe? The Amstron battery looks to have caps, but it says maintenance free.

 

[ccbreder]

If you connect two 6 volt, 225 amp/hour, batteries in series you have 12 volts at 225 amp/hours. Connect these in parallel with two others you have 12 volts at 450 amp/hours. The amp hours are at the 20 hour rate.
Check with Costco or Sam's Club for the best price on 6 volt golf cart batteries. I have seen 225 amp at less than $100 each. Find a friend with a card.

 

[LeeRevell]

Two 6V 200AH (NOT mah), in serial is 12V at 200AH. In parallel they would be 6V at 400AH.

 

[eDJ_]

I just got an ad in my news paper from "Rural King" a Farm Supply store.

They sell the Exide line of Batteries for Cars,  Trucks, and Tractors.


But they also have 6 VDC Golf Cart Batteries at reasonable prices.  $69.99

http://www.ruralking.com/exide-golf-cart-battery-6volt-gc115g.html




[url=http://www.ruralking.com/storelocator/index/index]http://www.ruralking.com/storelocator/index/index[/url]

















http://www.ruralking.com/exide-golf-cart-battery-6volt-gc115g.html

 

[LeeRevell]

Can't tell for sure what AH rating it has.  75AH?  Far too light weight and low AH if that is true.

 

[bgq007]

Thanks... The issue I am seeing with these batteries and others are mentioning is that they are not going to be good for inside use. I need something that isn't going to put off fumes as they will most likely be placed inside the vehicle.

 

[SternWake]

All flooded batteries are going to give off fumes when charging.

Exide does not have the greatest reputation, but those prices are good.  Could be good for learner batteries

A 6v Golf cart battery is always going to outlive an equal capacity of 12v batteries, and be easier to fully recharge.


Fumes are an issue, you either seal the batteries somewhere wit a Vent up and out to let the hydrogen.oxygen and sulfuric acid mist escape outside the Van, or you go with AGM batteries.

AGM batteries are much more expensive.  And they also are petulant when only getting partial recharges and then discharged again.  Partial state of charge cycling is the nemesis of all lead acid batteries, but the more expensive AGM is more affected.  The more expensive status of the AGM tends to make people think they are a super battery. And they are a super battery, but only when recharged properly promptly and fully.  

AGMs really appreciate a higher recharge rate on occasion.  Some AGMs require high rate recharging as often as possible when depleted significantly.

A good middle of the road AGM is the Deka Intimidator series.  These are rebranded at costco as duracells.

There are a lot of Asian AGM's like Universal battery and Vmaxtanks.  My fear of these is how old they might be when ordered online.

AGMs are often called gel cells erroneously.  AGMs are different than a true Gel battery.  Gel batteries have very specific charging requirements and are not recommended for mobile applications unless the charging current is precisely controlled.


The best bang for the Buck are 6v flooded golf cart batteries.  They are the most tolerant  of abuse ( chronic undercharging), and are easier to fully recharge, and one gets the most AH capacity per $.

You just have to deal with the fumes when charging.  They do not offgas when discharging.

Many people Do not stress the Fumes at all.  On Vanagon forums they go batcrap, foaming at the mouth,  crazy when anybody mentions battery fumes possibly being dangerous.

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

All flooded batteries are going to give off fumes when charging.

The best bang for the Buck are 6v flooded golf cart batteries.  They are the most tolerant  of abuse ( chronic undercharging), and are easier to fully recharge, and one gets the most AH capacity per $.

You just have to deal with the fumes when charging.  They do not offgas when discharging.

Many people Do not stress the Fumes at all.  On Vanagon forums they go batcrap, foaming at the mouth,  crazy when anybody mentions battery fumes possibly being dangerous.

I've been reading about the Water Miser aftermarket battery caps.  Supposedly, they reduce battery fumes considerably, as well as slowing the amount of water loss.  They might be an answer to having FLA batteries inside. 

Anybody got any experience with them?

Regards
John

 

[bgq007]

Whether or not they are "actually" dangerous (fumes) I prefer to NOT find out, so for me, flooded batteries are not an option. Just a personal preference thing.

 

[SternWake]

When I get my Trojan t-1275, I might acquire some water miser or hydrocaps for it. I've heard both good and bad about them, good that they work, bad that they don't. I don't think either reviewer had a clue. I do not really know.

My T-1275 will be going under my Hood where the original engine battery was located, But I have to modify(lower) the battery tray for it to fit.

Fumes are not an issue there, but access to 3 of the cells for hydrometer dipping and adding water, is limited.

 

[MikeRuth]

I use hydrolock caps and this is not an alternative to using them inside. They still allow the battery to vent gas plain and simple.

In a nut shell, the caps used for any of the watering systems use a float in the cap. So when you add water the float rises until the cell is full and then blocks the flow of water, and once all of the cells are full you essentially have a hydro lock condition not allowing any more water to flow in. But this is not a true hydraulic lock for long and as soon as that float can move ever so slightly then gasses can escape.

With that said before I put the hydro lock caps on, I occasionally could smell the battery which is mounted up under my frame, standing next to the van when a heavy gassing was happening. After using the HydroLock caps I haven't noticed it, so I'm sure there is some reduction in the gasses escaping, but not completely.

Mike