About generators?

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user 25174

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I totally get the solar idea of sustainability, carbon footprints, etc.
Most would agree, we need to leave this world a better place. Count me in .. only there's little said about those of us (maybe just me) who - for economic reasons mostly - have a generator to use in the interim.
For $149 bucks, a four stroke 2,000 watt seemed the only affordable option as my source of power.
I also realize I've likely banished myself when I meet-up with these folks.
Even still options a few for now it would seem.
It has no inverter, no special anything really.
Similar but much smaller than the one we used some years ago, it powered everything - from PC's.to TV's without any problems.
Now I read that this will likely damage those very items ..
Is this so?

Ultimately I'd like to go full solar, soon as it's on my shopping list.
Keith_in_AZ
 
My understanding is that if it's not an inverter generator it's not putting out pure sine wave AC power but rather modified sine wave. Some sensitive electronic devices can be damaged by modified sine wave AC this is true. But it's also my understanding that devices that have a brick charger like a laptop or maybe some gaming systems the device wont be damaged but possibly the transformer brick that runs to it. I.E. the power supply for the laptop might get fried and youd need a new one but the laptop will be fine.

That is my understanding. I may be wrong.
 
First off many of us have and use generators as needed. We are considerate of those around us as we do it.

Some MSW generators are better than others. You will have to see what will and will not run on it. Remember that not even all inverter generators are all that. I have seen sine waves that were suppose to be pure and were dirtier than my old open frame.
 
Generators don't put out a 'modified' sine wave in the same way that a modified sine wave 12v to 120v inverter does.

Standard generators put out a pretty good sine wave, but the problem is they typically have 'spikes' or 'dips' in the waveform, due to a device called an AVR (automatic voltage regulator) built in to the generator head.

These spikes are mostly harmless and wont hurt things like motors, lights, pumps, etc, but could cause failure in a certain type of susceptible, sensitive, switching supply as are used on laptops, monitors, USB chargers, etc.

Personally I have not had a single problem with it, but reports are out there...so I would probably avoid powering a $2000 Apple laptop or $4000 drone charger with a $149 genset. 


Just sayin....
 
To solve some of my concerns I try to get everything 12 volt or 12 volt vehicle chargers for them then use the battery which I charge with the generator or while driving my vehicle. I have a 350 watt pure sine wave inverter hooked up as well to my battery for my radmini electric bicycle or anything computer that might be damaged. I also use Ryobi 18 volt lights, arctic cooler fan, and tools with a vehicle charger in order to take advantage of their highly efficient newest batteries without having to spend thousands on big batteries and large solar systems. I also use a jumper pack as a reserve which I keep on charge. It has worked well for me as I used to drive at least 4 hours each day and seldom had to run the generator. Now that I am using the electric bike more and pretty much stationary most of the time a solar system is looking like the answer as the generator is pretty high maintenance and costly to run.
 
Combining a smaller solar system with a generator is a robust option. Run the generator for a short time in the morning to do the bulk of your battery charging, then let the solar finish off the lower power longer time battery topping.

For $300 you can get a hundred watt panel and a high quality controller like the Victron.
 
I think the ideal situation is to have a quality generator, a quiet and efficient unit, and a good size solar arrangement....300 or 400 watt. Now, my reasoning is that I require AIR CONDITIONING.....lol.....yes I have to be comfortable because I get heat cramps and to avoid the "This Sucks" moments.....I sound old and worn out, and that is both true and false....but heck yeah I want all of the comfort I can get. Do whatcha gotta do.
 
Keith_in_AZ said:
For $149 bucks, a four stroke 2,000 watt seemed the only affordable option as my source of power.

Ultimately I'd like to go full solar, soon as it's on my shopping list.

I run most everything off 12v, I hardly ever use the inverter. 

I don't know what you're driving but when I started I had two 122ah house batteries from Walmart (29DC). They were hooked up to be charged by the van alternator when running. Those two batteries did the job for me. I'd use a solenoid or an on/off switch between the house batteries & the vehicle battery. The solenoid is a better option.

Solar is magic!  

Buy a kit, these sandwich kits do work.. As an example-
https://www.amazon.com/HQST-Polycry...TF8&qid=1549643948&sr=1-33&keywords=solar+kit

If you'd rather do it yourself... Find a solar panel (or get two!),  100w or better (I just saw an $82/100w panel on Amazon). I've found them on craigslist and I've bought them from Amazon, get a mttp solar controller.  

I've used a panel outside the van, positioned on the ground & pointing to the sun, I used a camp chair to prop the panel. 
MC4 connectors to normal plugs so I could use a heavy duty extension cord between the panel & the controller. I measured mine with a 50' extension cord & had one tenth of a volt drop over the run, it worked for me. (When I mounted it on the roof I used mc4 connectors between the panel & the controller.)

You could get 2 panels and put hinge between them for a home made solar kit.

Mounting the panels on the roof makes a lot of things simpler.  The roof mount brackets work well, just put the butyl sealing putty under them before you screw it down and use Dicor self leveling sealant on the edges & over the bolt heads.
 
Thank you all .. very much!
BTW I too need air cond when it's real hot.
A bunch of hardware from surgeries on my back is why.
Ok .. perhaps best I start with my "rig" or van, and refer to my newcomer post for photos.
It's a Chevrolet Express Explorer 2014, just paid off & in need of a "practical" makeover. W/little funds currently .. this will change.
Inside has many items that will be useable.. an inverter (unsure its wattage. It says "game systems only". Several USB powered outlets from and rear. Sm cabinets above seating, etc, etc. Most all the (leather) seating is for cruising in style-like comfort. **I bought this for business presentations, and it's done its job well).
Only now I want to hit the road, and just go.
Short of tearing it all apart, i can remove the middle seats so i can move around a bit. (put them where?)
It has a moon roof above the rear benchseat/bed that may help.
I know that I need to do this .. just go, and let the wind tell me when to park.
However, I prefer to be somewhat prepared.
I know .. confusing as it reads .. ya' oughta' be on this end of it.
Jeez.
Keith_in_AZ
 
I use solar with a generator for backup. That generator only powers a large battery charger. Anything that I need AC for gets run off of a separate pure sine wave inverter. The advantage is that I can use a smaller generator. The large inverter and batteries take care of intermittent large loads that are too big for the generator. Things like a microwave oven only run for about 5 minutes
 
one thing for sure if anyone uses a generator please use a quite one not a construction generator. any body close to you will thank you. highdesertranger
 
They might even drop a small inverter generator on your table saying that you will be using it for the duration of your stay instead of the open frame unit you left running half the night. lol
 
I just took a short video of a very quiet, dual fuel, high power Westinghouse iGen4500/3700 inverter generator:


 
The days that a Honda or Yamaha generator are your only choice are gone. Dual fuel is wonderful because while propane does not hold as much energy per gallon as gas, a 20 or 30 pound propane tank last a lot longer than the on board gas tank.
 
A non-inverter generator has a mechanical govenor to hold the engine speed at 3600 rpm to make 60hz. It’s wise to connect the load after the generator is up and running full bore and remove the load prior to shutting the generator off.
 
yeah a big shout out to Jim he saved us last year by lending his quite little generator to our neighbors. their generator was super loud and they insisted on running it even after we pointed out on several occasions how annoying it was.

by the way Jim I picked up a Honda 2200.

highdesertranger
 
Ok I have the generator in question. DO NOT just plug stuff into it and think its fine. Its $150 for a reason. Check the voltage after the extension cord run. Then check it again with a load on it. You can set it to bounce sat 112v-121v the minute you put a 1kw load on it it can drop to 80v. Its actually a POS and I dont care for them.

But mines been used a ton and still going. The queiter the generator the better. Trying to run an open frame in say a walmart parking lot is odd. I put mine in my cheap amazon aluminum tool box on my hitch tray. I drilled cooling holes, welded a muffler extension and plumbed exhaust outside, etc. Makes it pretty managable noise wise.


Personally i dont think full solar is a realistic approach. Theres just not enough sun time for the amount we can get on our roof....shoot for lithium batteries first.
 
highdesertranger said:
by the way Jim I picked up a Honda 2200.

highdesertranger

Know that there has been a recall on those for a fire hazard. Make sure yours has had the repair or set it up to be repaired.
 
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