94 F-250HD How large a camper can I have? (Learning my towing capacity... again)

[user 22017]

I dont know what a sliding back glass costs now, (may be able to find a decent one used at a wrecking yard or ebay) but they werent really very expensive in the past, and not that much to install. I think they can be self installed, id ask youtube and find out. After the first one I had, I couldnt imagine not having a sliding back glass in a pickup. I of course always had dogs and theyd come and go through the rear window into the shell which had a bed in it, which is something else (shell) I couldnt imagine not having. I ended up just going to suburbans and 4runners, but thats another story.

I forgot that my topper has sliding glass window in the front. Still, I don't want to mess with my truck. Yet, lol. Does interest me!

 

[Happy Camper]

Quick search says a new slider window is $250+ for the part. Probably wouldn't cost a lot to get it installed.

 

[user 22017]

Quick search says a new slider window is $250+ for the part. Probably wouldn't cost a lot to get it installed.

thank you. Without using the topper, I'm wondering if it makes my truck more vulnerable to break-ins.
My truck is in the shop now for front end work, but I'm having him work on the doors. They don't lock.

 

[rvwandering]

LOL. You're right. I didn't know what it was called if you just wanted your load capacity. So, I should have said 'learning my GAWR'?

It's good for me to know both, since I still don't know what my rig will be after I close on my house in less than two weeks. Rigs of all kinds are flooding FB marketplace now. The pandemic purchasers are now dumping them. Good prices, too.

Carla, I added to the title using Happy Camper's suggestion. Let me know if you would like it changed to something different.

 

[NctryBen]

My truck has the slider window, but not the camper… I like the idea of the dog being able to go back and forth…

 

[NctryBen]

thank you. Without using the topper, I'm wondering if it makes my truck more vulnerable to break-ins.
My truck is in the shop now for front end work, but I'm having him work on the doors. They don't lock.

Locks are overrated! Haha… til they are needed! I built a camper a few years ago. I was rebuilding an old one I had and when I realized how bad the old one was it was to late to stop. Haha!
I had bought new jacks for it and was picking up the steel I had cut to attach said jacks when I found my current trailer.
To bad I took the max fan, solar, batteries and such and fridge out. I’d give it to ya til you found the rig for you… fits 8’ box.
Still has the gland and wires for the solar panel on roof.
I’ve never had a problem with anyone breaking into my rear slider. Once I left my engine running while grabbing something quick at a store. I was in and out so fast…
(Doors locked… had air on for dog). As I came out three guys were turning around and the middle guy putting a crowbar under his jacket. They had met the rath of my then new to me dog… she takes that truck guarding serious! I mention that cause even with a slider they were going to break the window…
No camper on at the time, I hauled canoes and kayaks coast to coast!

 

[Malamute]

thank you. Without using the topper, I'm wondering if it makes my truck more vulnerable to break-ins.
My truck is in the shop now for front end work, but I'm having him work on the doors. They don't lock.

It depends on the type of latch and if its in OK condition. Ive heard of it, but heard of more side windows or slim jims being used to unlock the doors. The latches can be improved in some cases. I once took some small aluminum angle and screwed it to the windows using existing holes and put a small snap on it to hold it shut. Part of the original latch was broken. On another I took a piece of copper wire and wrapped it around the remainder of the latch base and twisted it in place. Most of the time it didnt matter since I had a shell on the truck and the window was open most of the time for the dogs.

This ($42.50) was in the price range I more expected for a used rear sliding window. Id check auto salvage yards nearby, maybe facebook marketplace and ebay. Local would be best, shipping is probably more than the window would cost used. I'd expect maybe up to $75 for a good clean used one.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2958983406...MI79LL6av4gQMVxACtBh0LCwqlEAQYAiABEgI2LfD_BwE

As a comparison, on ebay Ive seen a certain part listed in the $300 range used, a semi-local salvage yard said they had a couple, they wanted $50-$75 for them. Thats worth driving 80 miles for. of course we drive that far for lunch or to go shopping, so not really much of an issue.

 

[user 22017]

This ($42.50) was in the price range I more expected for a used rear sliding window. Id check auto salvage yards nearby, maybe facebook marketplace and ebay. Local would be best, shipping is probably more than the window would cost used. I'd expect maybe up to $75 for a good clean used one.

As a comparison, on ebay Ive seen a certain part listed in the $300 range used, a semi-local salvage yard said they had a couple, they wanted $50-$75 for them. Thats worth driving 80 miles for. of course we drive that far for lunch or to go shopping, so not really much of an issue.

Thanks Malamute
I found some not too far from me at carparts.com. One is $35, but no image. These are $72.00

 

[user 22017]

I wanted to keep my truck as original as possible and maybe try to fix it up a bit. Have body work done on the rust spots, pull out dents. Maybe replace the dashboard. I think the truck spent every winter in AZ or FL. Cracks everywhere in the dash. She towed a heavy 5th wheel for years (previous owners).

Putting a slider in seems very beneficial. I'll ask my mechanic about putting one in or if he recommends a place.

Pic of my truck.

 

[LargeMarge]

... vulnerable to break-ins.
... the doors. They don't lock.

.

.

.
Based on these lock exposé series, I am convinced the entire concept of locks and security is, fundamentally, a joke.
Do crooks watch YouTube videos to discover new and different ways to crook?
Probably.
.
MacNally comes at it with humor and great craik.
He violently violates locks, then chucks the offender(s) at an innocent mannequin by-stander.
Catch-phrase:
* "What does it take to [whacks one lock with twin lock, both pop open] open a _____ lock?"
.
LockPickingLawyer goes at it with intellectual sarcasm... and a 'just to show that was not a fluke...' repetition of the first violation of the poor defenseless mechanism.
.
Is your truck vulnerable?
I am pretty sure vehicle manufacturers include that as a no-cost option...

 

[LargeMarge]

If I was me, I might add the front axle capacity to the rear axle capacity.
If my sums are accurate, those two capacities add up to roughly 9,300#.
.
That is the maximum your vehicle can weigh.
That number includes:
* vehicle weight, plus
* fuel, souls aboard, cargo, tools...
... and any other weight on the pavement beneath your four tires.
.
If I was me, I might take my vehicle to a scales to verify the weight.
Let's say, for example, the scales say your vehicle weighs 6,000#.
.
Subtracting those hypothetical 6,000# from your Real-World 9,300# GVWR -- the capacity of your two axles -- gives you your cargo capacity of about (hypothetical) 3,300#.
.
That (made-up) ton-and-a-half+/- is the maximum your vehicle can legally and safely handle.
There is no 'grace' nor engineered 'slack' in this rating.
This is:
* the maximum your insurance will cover,
* the maximum the weigh-master will allow,
* the maximum your vehicle can handle without stressing components and increasing the likelihood of a disaster.
.
.
An aside:
We are proponents of too much truck.
More truck than we need gives us the sense of security of:
* more frame than we need
* more brakes than we need...
... and probably...
* bigger radiator than we need, plus
* stouter transmission than we need.
.
For example, our ExpeditionVehicle weighs 14,000# across the scale.
Front axle capacity is 16,000#.
Rear axle capacity is 23,000#.
Our GVWR is 29,000#, giving us a cargo capacity -- subtract weight from GVWR -- of about seven ton.
.
Playing it conservative, we would never approach that tonnage.
I think riding the edge turns me into a test-pilot.
And that job doesn't pay enough.

 

[user 22017]

Is your truck vulnerable?
I am pretty sure vehicle manufacturers include that as a no-cost option...

So locks don't even slow down an experienced thief? Is that why I've read about people making hiding places for cash and electronics in their rigs?

Locks would slow down a newbie thief. Right? So they aren't completely worthless.

Now I don't know if I should bother getting them fixed.

 

[user 22017]

If I was me, I might add the front axle capacity to the rear axle capacity.
If my sums are accurate, those two capacities add up to roughly 9,300#.
.
That is the maximum your vehicle can weigh.
That number includes:
* vehicle weight, plus
* fuel, souls aboard, cargo, tools...
... and any other weight on the pavement beneath your four tires.
.
If I was me, I might take my vehicle to a scales to verify the weight.
Let's say, for example, the scales say your vehicle weighs 6,000#.
.
Subtracting those hypothetical 6,000# from your Real-World 9,300# GVWR -- the capacity of your two axles -- gives you your cargo capacity of about (hypothetical) 3,300#.
.
That (made-up) ton-and-a-half+/- is the maximum your vehicle can legally and safely handle.
There is no 'grace' nor engineered 'slack' in this rating.
This is:
* the maximum your insurance will cover,
* the maximum the weigh-master will allow,
* the maximum your vehicle can handle without stressing components and increasing the likelihood of a disaster.

I think my truck carries much less than I thought. Sounds like maybe 4000-5000 pounds. Can't be 3000, can it? I will weigh it at the dump when I get it out of the shop.

 

[bullfrog !]

Could be, simply weigh your truck and subtract what it weighs from 8,600 lbs. to get an answer. Recommended carrying capacity has been known to be exaggerated by manufacturers and older trucks tend to have less due to worn or abused parts. A 3,500 lb. Truck camper is a very heavy camper. Towing a 3,500 lb. trailer is much easier on the vehicle.

 

[user 22017]

Could be, simply weigh your truck and subtract what it weighs from 8,600 lbs. to get an answer. Recommended carrying capacity has been known to be exaggerated by manufacturers and older trucks tend to have less due to worn or abused parts. A 3,500 lb. Truck camper is a very heavy camper. Towing a 3,500 lb. trailer is much easier on the vehicle.

That's what I was thinking! I should get over my fear of towing and buy a trailer.

 

[Happy Camper]

If you're thinking about getting a trailer, you might consider renting one or borrowing one first. Unless you're already familiar with towing one.

Spend a day driving around with it and practicing backing up. Backing to a trailer is a little counter intuitive, but takes a little practice and getting used to. And where you'll be going or parking will play a factor.

This isn't something to be scared of. Just prepared for. There are plenty here that can give you pro trailer towing tips and help.

 

[rruff]

That's what I was thinking! I should get over my fear of towing and buy a trailer.

Towing isn't that fearful, just a PITA for most vagabonds... hard to park and maneuver.

It shouldn't be hard to find a camper to fit in the bed that is <2500 lbs.

 

[Malamute]

If I was me, I might add the front axle capacity to the rear axle capacity.
If my sums are accurate, those two capacities add up to roughly 9,300#.
.
That is the maximum your vehicle can weigh.
That number includes:
* vehicle weight, plus
* fuel, souls aboard, cargo, tools...
... and any other weight on the pavement beneath your four tires.
.
If I was me, I might take my vehicle to a scales to verify the weight.
Let's say, for example, the scales say your vehicle weighs 6,000#.
.
Subtracting those hypothetical 6,000# from your Real-World 9,300# GVWR -- the capacity of your two axles -- gives you your cargo capacity of about (hypothetical) 3,300#.

Im sorry but this is BS. You dont get to make up your own GVWR based off the axle ratings and ignore the factory GVWR. The axle numbers are the max weight that can be on each axle. The load can be biased to front or rear for many reasons, thats the max each axle can have, not to exceed the max GVWR, its NOT a number to be added up to get the REAL GVWR. You phrased it in a way "if it were you", but its done in a way to suggest its a reasonable thing for others to do, and its not. This is bad advice.


As for locks, its a false premise to base locking effectiveness on what a very small number of pros may do. Most thieves are not pros nor part of any brain trust. Videos commonly show people going along looking for unlocked vehicles to steal from. Not locking your stuff is inviting theives to steal your stuff if not openly giving away your stuff for free. Even cheap locks are an improvement, but as lock quality goes up, it starts reducing the number of people able to defeat them. It seems self defeating though to throw ones hands up in despair of locking anything because a very small number of thieves may be able to defeat a lock.


Trailers can be difficult to many people, just like math can be to others. It seems to come easily to some but not others. Experience will help of course, and probably anyone can learn to do it with some good instruction. The more you do it the easier it will be. Borrowing or renting one and someone that has experience to help you get the basics may make it less intimidating or mysterious.

In the line of thought of it comes easily to some, Ive seen many people with seemingly a lot of trailer experience that cant back one up well, or make extreme overcorrections. It often takes very little adjustment to get a better line or angle on something, maybe 3-5 feet of rolling motion at most, yet some will pull forward several vehicle lengths and end up making the whole thing far more complicated, frustrating and difficult than it needs to be.

 

[towboater]

Could be, simply weigh your truck and subtract what it weighs from 8,600 lbs. to get an answer. Recommended carrying capacity has been known to be exaggerated by manufacturers and older trucks tend to have less due to worn or abused parts. A 3,500 lb. Truck camper is a very heavy camper. Towing a 3,500 lb. trailer is much easier on the vehicle.

I can attest to camper being heavy. I bought an Okanagan with 2 slides and mounted it on my 3500 dually. I used to haul 12’ wide steel plates in the northern Indiana-Chicago corridor and it didn’t scare me nearly as much as that camper did in any kind of wind. I even added helpers to my rear springs and no change
Best Wishes

 

[rruff]

Forget the slides! Just a basic camper to fit in an 8' bed won't be that heavy.

For instance, these weigh 2160 lbs, and lots of used ones are for sale: