Luisafernandes
Well-known member
highdesertranger said:
Thank you! Much appreciated. [emoji106][emoji604][emoji1]
2014 Chevy Express 2500 Van Build: Luisafernandes
- Thread starter Luisafernandes
- Start date
Help Support Van Living Forum:
Thank you! Much appreciated. [emoji106][emoji604][emoji1]
4GNomad
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Luis,
Finally made it through your entire thread. Awesome work.
Quick question: How are those round vent fans working out on moving air around. I just bought a hightop van as you will see in my blog and I was planning on putting a Fantastic Fan on the the backend of the top above the doors but found out I don't have the space. I am debating about using these smaller round fans (too bad they don't have reverse) or splurging and getting that low profile MaxxAir for the top.
Look forward to future posts and I enjoy your videos as well. Cheers!
Finally made it through your entire thread. Awesome work.
Quick question: How are those round vent fans working out on moving air around. I just bought a hightop van as you will see in my blog and I was planning on putting a Fantastic Fan on the the backend of the top above the doors but found out I don't have the space. I am debating about using these smaller round fans (too bad they don't have reverse) or splurging and getting that low profile MaxxAir for the top.
Look forward to future posts and I enjoy your videos as well. Cheers!
Luisafernandes
Well-known member
You must have remarkable patience and courage to read the entire thing. [emoji23] thank you!
The VanAir vents aren't connected yet, as I'm still working on my solar. My intention from the beginning was not to have them running, though I can, but to just leave them open and have the Fantastic vent running, sucking air out. So far I love them! They make the van much, much cooler![emoji106][emoji106]
The fans don't have reverse but if wired backwards they will.
My suggestion, and I never had a MaxxAir, is to get one. That's what I would get, the low profile one that can stay running even in the rain. Again, I don't know if they are better quality than the Fantastic vents, or worse, but definitely worth checking out.
Thank you for the kind words, really appreciate it! [emoji106][emoji1][emoji604]
The VanAir vents aren't connected yet, as I'm still working on my solar. My intention from the beginning was not to have them running, though I can, but to just leave them open and have the Fantastic vent running, sucking air out. So far I love them! They make the van much, much cooler![emoji106][emoji106]
The fans don't have reverse but if wired backwards they will.
My suggestion, and I never had a MaxxAir, is to get one. That's what I would get, the low profile one that can stay running even in the rain. Again, I don't know if they are better quality than the Fantastic vents, or worse, but definitely worth checking out.
Thank you for the kind words, really appreciate it! [emoji106][emoji1][emoji604]
rvpopeye
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A reverse switch can be added easily.
1 Get a DPDT switch (with center off) rated for at least the fan(s) amps DC.
2 Connect the fan(s) wires to the center two terminals
3 Connect 12v DC positive and negative to two of the terminals on one end
4 Connect two wires from the 12v DC terminals (in an X) to the OPPOSITE two terminals on the other end
5 Reverse switch done ,,,,enjoy!
PS:
The fan motors will be happier if you switch to the off position till the fan stops before switching to the other direction......................
1 Get a DPDT switch (with center off) rated for at least the fan(s) amps DC.
2 Connect the fan(s) wires to the center two terminals
3 Connect 12v DC positive and negative to two of the terminals on one end
4 Connect two wires from the 12v DC terminals (in an X) to the OPPOSITE two terminals on the other end
5 Reverse switch done ,,,,enjoy!
PS:
The fan motors will be happier if you switch to the off position till the fan stops before switching to the other direction......................
Luisafernandes
Well-known member
rvpopeye said:
Very good to know, thank you!
Luisafernandes
Well-known member
rvpopeye said:
That spinach eating must give you lots of energy to read 31 pages. [emoji123][emoji106][emoji1]
Thank you for watching and for the compliment! [emoji106][emoji106]
Luisafernandes
Well-known member
A nice amount of Dicor lap sealant on the solar panel cables going through the roof will keep it nice ant water tight;
And here's a view from the inside where the cables come in inside the cabinet;
Next I made room for the charge controller by cutting part of the top shelve;
I screwed the charge controller in place living at least 6" inches at the bottom and top per manufacture's instructions, and more than the 1" inch required on the sides;
Then installed the breaker box to protect the system;
It has a 15A and 30A breaker. The positive wire coming from the solar panel goes into the bottom of the 15A breaker. Then out the top and into the charge controller. The positive cable from the battery goes into the bottom of the 30A breaker, then out the top into the charge controller.
The reason the cable from the solar and the battery go into the bottom of the breaker and not the top, is because the breakers have ++ signs at the bottom. What does that mean? It mean that the device with the greatest potential should be connected there. In the case of the solar panel vs the charge controller, the solar panel has the greatest potential of the two. Same thing with the battery. It has the greatest potential versus the charge controller and thus needs to be connected at the bottom where the ++ signs are.
Here's some of the cables connected to the charge controller. On the left is the positive coming from the solar panel, after it goes through the 15A breaker.
Next is the negative coming straight from the solar panel.
Next to that is the negative coming straight from the battery.
All the way on the right is the positive from the battery after it goes into the 30A breaker.
I'll have more details coming soon.
A big thank you to all of you who answered my many questions! Once I wrapped my head around certain things, the work itself wasn't that hard. And I've gained tremendous knowledge in the process.
And here's a view from the inside where the cables come in inside the cabinet;
Next I made room for the charge controller by cutting part of the top shelve;
I screwed the charge controller in place living at least 6" inches at the bottom and top per manufacture's instructions, and more than the 1" inch required on the sides;
Then installed the breaker box to protect the system;
It has a 15A and 30A breaker. The positive wire coming from the solar panel goes into the bottom of the 15A breaker. Then out the top and into the charge controller. The positive cable from the battery goes into the bottom of the 30A breaker, then out the top into the charge controller.
The reason the cable from the solar and the battery go into the bottom of the breaker and not the top, is because the breakers have ++ signs at the bottom. What does that mean? It mean that the device with the greatest potential should be connected there. In the case of the solar panel vs the charge controller, the solar panel has the greatest potential of the two. Same thing with the battery. It has the greatest potential versus the charge controller and thus needs to be connected at the bottom where the ++ signs are.
Here's some of the cables connected to the charge controller. On the left is the positive coming from the solar panel, after it goes through the 15A breaker.
Next is the negative coming straight from the solar panel.
Next to that is the negative coming straight from the battery.
All the way on the right is the positive from the battery after it goes into the 30A breaker.
I'll have more details coming soon.
A big thank you to all of you who answered my many questions! Once I wrapped my head around certain things, the work itself wasn't that hard. And I've gained tremendous knowledge in the process.
MikeRuth
Well-known member
Luisafernandes said:
Luisafernandes
Well-known member
I've noticed that, but it's too late to change it now. [emoji106]
Patrick46
Well-known member
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/11/aafd60df26d7ca60d578d4ff354f2fba.jpg
BATTERY!!!
Progress looks GREAT Luis!!! Very sano!!
BATTERY!!!
Progress looks GREAT Luis!!! Very sano!!
LeeRevell
Well-known member
Many shelves...... one SHELF? Just sayin'.....
Do they make Dicor adhesive/sealer in other colors? Top of my E150 is dark brown. That white would look messy. Black would blend in well.
Do they make Dicor adhesive/sealer in other colors? Top of my E150 is dark brown. That white would look messy. Black would blend in well.
Luisafernandes
Well-known member
Patrick46 said:
Thanks Patrick!
Battery? You want to see them?
Luisafernandes
Well-known member
LeeRevell said:
Absolutely right you are, shelf it should have been. Will I, forgiven be? [emoji1]
I don't think they make any other color, but you can double check. You can always paint your roof white to match the Dicor. [emoji1][emoji106]
MikeRuth
Well-known member
LeeRevell said:
They do have it in a gray color, part number [font='Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]501LSG[/font]
[font='Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]https://www.dicorproducts.com/catalog/roof-products/replace/epdm-lap-sealants/[/font]
LeeRevell
Well-known member
Actually eventually I do want to paint the van. A cream yellow with deep red stripes, with a white roof. So the white stuff would work, likely.
Luis, I'll cut you some slack.
Luis, I'll cut you some slack.
Luisafernandes
Well-known member
LeeRevell said:Actually eventually I do want to paint the van. A cream yellow with deep red stripes, with a white roof. So the white stuff would work, likely.
Luis, I'll cut you some slack.
Noooooooooo...you cut it too soon! I'm still holding on to-
[emoji23][emoji106]
Luisafernandes
Well-known member
Here's what all the wire connections finally look like finished.
On the left is the MorningStar TriStar MPPT 45. In the middle is the Blue Seas fuse box. All the connections, like lights, refrigerator, propane alarm, etc, will run from this box. On the right is the breaker panel with a 15A and 30A breaker connecting and protecting the charge controller from the solar panel and the batteries.
And here's the battery bank with two 125 amps each Lifeline AGMs.
Now I just need to order some lights, propane detector and when I have the money, a refrigerator.
On the left is the MorningStar TriStar MPPT 45. In the middle is the Blue Seas fuse box. All the connections, like lights, refrigerator, propane alarm, etc, will run from this box. On the right is the breaker panel with a 15A and 30A breaker connecting and protecting the charge controller from the solar panel and the batteries.
And here's the battery bank with two 125 amps each Lifeline AGMs.
Now I just need to order some lights, propane detector and when I have the money, a refrigerator.
Luisafernandes
Well-known member
Thank you! [emoji106][emoji106]
