1989 Dodge High Top-continuing thread

Van Living Forum

Help Support Van Living Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

66788

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 5, 2014
Messages
1,035
Reaction score
8
I pulled the interior out and stripped it down to bare bones. I painted the non-opening windows black from the inside and then installed 2 inches of styrofoam.

Nashua metal duct tape was used to attach and seal the foam and relfectix.

I've tested the finished insulation and it really works! With the sun on the black windows it burns the hand, but inside the heat is kept from transferring through. I think it will make a big difference. I plan on having velcro attached reflectix to cover the hinged windows.

... to be continued.

]stock interior panels[/url]

]stripped down to bare bones[/url]

]after installing 2 inches of styrofoam[/url]
 
Just tore out the rubber floor mats and the smelly padding. Laid the sub floor and it's ready for the Cherry wood laminate that will go in on Saturday. Hope to have pics ready to post for Sunday.



 
Did you leave a gap between the floor and wood, or paint underneath the wood? It looks great and professional, but you run the risk of moisture getting trapped underneath.

(But then I'm paranoid about moisture and sheet metal).
 
Vic. said:
Did you leave a gap between the floor and wood, or paint underneath the wood? It looks great and professional, but you run the risk of moisture getting trapped underneath.

(But then I'm paranoid about moisture and sheet metal).

No gap or moisture barrier between the OSB and the floor of the van. This is the 4th van that I have used this floor technique on, and none of the others have had any problems. As a matter of fact, the OEM floor covering was moist and bordering damp when pulled up to ready the van for this floor. Since the floor is stamped with high and low ribs, there is great airflow under the OSB.

BTW, the gap between the main sheets of OSB is for electrical wires to be run before the hardwood floor is installed.
 
Today a friend helped me install the Cherry wood laminate floor. The visible screws will be under cabinets so the pristine floor will show when done.

I estimated 2 hours for the job, it was 6 hours. Glad I don't make my living this way!

The next step is melamine paneling on the sides covering the styrofoam insulation.

 
Laminate is nice, but man you realize how much dirt you bring in when you have it.
 
yes you do realize how much dirt and dust comes in with wood floors, however with carpet the same amount comes in only you don't notice it as much so it never gets as clean. :) the van is looking good.
 
Ah, gotcha.

Looking good! Looking forward to seeing it all put together.
 
flying kurbmaster2 said:
yes you do realize how much dirt and dust comes in with wood floors, however with carpet the same amount comes in only you don't notice it as much so it never gets as clean. :) the van is looking good.

You are absolutely right. The only way I ever do carpeting is throw rugs that can be washed. Carpet is nothing but an odor, dust, dirt, and bacteria trap.
 
Just finished the install of the Kyocera Solar Panel on the 1989 Dodge High Top. I was lucky in that the design of the high top appears to be built to accept the exact size panel I installed. I designed a mounting system using 6061 T6 aircraft aluminum with stainless steel hardware to minimize the effects of dissimilar metals that occurs with normal steel hardware when used on aluminum.

The pics below show the mounts which lay flat on the roof when down, but tip up 50 degrees to allow full exposure to the winter sun. When down the solar panel can be locked to the roof mounts with two small padlocks preventing quick theft. It's easy to stand on the rear of the van and raise and lock the panels in the upright position.

The roof mounts sandwich the fiberglass between two pieces of 6061 T6 aluminum and have weatherproof silicone between the aluminum and the fiberglass top. I will apply Dicor over the seams tomorrow.

For the charge controller I chose the Morningstar ProStar 30M. It has the full meter and a 30 amp capacity, utilizing PWM three stage charging, with selection for AGM, Sealed, and Flooded batteries. The roof cable is from Arizona Wind and Sun and is the standard RV 10 gauge stranded wire inside an ultra violet proof jacket.

A second panel will be mounted on the top of the roof, but mounted permanently flat, as it's not easy to reach to raise because the van is so tall.

It was nice working inside the van with the fantastic fan blowing on high and not having it affect the battery capacity.









 
I really like your tiltable solar panel mount. That makes a huge difference in winter.
 
flying kurbmaster said:
yes you do realize how much dirt and dust comes in with wood floors, however with carpet the same amount comes in only you don't notice it as much so it never gets as clean. :) the van is looking good.

Taking off shoes and wearing slippers inside is the way to go.

This van is looking really nice.
 
looks great i have 4 Kyrocera panels going on my 77 dodge tradesman so they will go sideways across the roof.
 
Solar install is now completed. I have 2 panels, a Kyocera 120 watt that tilts to catch the winter sun, and a Solec 85 watt panel that is permanently mounted in front of the Kyocera panel, but does not tilt. It would require a ladder to tilt this panel, so I elected to leave it flat and rely on the Kyocera KC120 for the bulk of my winter charging. I also have the Honda EU1000i generator for those cloudy days.



I chose not to use a combiner box but rather make 2 small holes in the fiberglass top to run the 2 10 gauge UV jacketed cables through to the inside of the van. A plywood utility board was mounted just under the high top and will be behind a cabinet for protection soon. On that utility board I mounted a double gang electrical switch box to individually control each panel and also more importantly to act as a solar disconnect. Also on the utility board is the main fuse panel for all 12vdc house circuits.



Outside the van I mounted a weatherproof motor base (strange name but it's the electrical connection that passes 110vac from an outside shore power source to the inside of the van) and inside below the Morningstar Prostar 30 controller you will see the 20 amp circuit breaker for shore power. The wiring is temporary until the cabinet is finished.





On the roof I mounted a MaxxAir vent. I chose this model because the screen can be removed for cleaning from the inside of the vehicle and since I am not planning on having a vent cover on this, any debris can be readily removed from the inside of the van. The trim that came with the vent was not used and a 2 x 2 pine frame was made as trim, stained to match the laminate floor. Wiring for the vent will be connected when the LED lighting is installed.



Finally, some 3M non slip traction tape was put on the rear bumper to that when I am raising and lowering the rear solar panel, I won't slip and end up on the ground.



It's looking like this will be the rig I take to the RTR as the Starship Grumman Olson won't be ready by January.

Thanks for viewing

66788
 
Looks like you do good work.... Is that your profession or are you just skilled at it?
 
Not pro, I just enjoy working with my hands and doing things right, thanks.
 
Nice job on the van. You say you've done a few before; it shows.
 
Top