1986 Dodge B-250 extended bubble-top van for an unconventional guy

[GotSmart]

First you need to have a good running motor and transmission.  :dodgy:

All the expensive chemicals in the world will not repair a mechanical problem.  

Several years ago I was asked to replace a foundation on a house.  One look at the place and I informed the owner that replacing the granite blocks under his 130 year old building would do nothing to help the building.  Between the termites, and the tornado, is house was not repairable.  It was a money pit.

We built a new home for the cost of the one repair without wasting a penny on the current building. 

Debt is in a similar situation.  He is not facing the issue. He will not even admit to the issue, and you guys keep getting sucked into his drama.  :s

 

[Every Road Leads Home]

Congrats on the Job! I think it's going to help you in more ways than one. And nothing beats experience, once you have a little time in doing this, you can most likely travel and get a job doing it in any other major city with pedi cabs

 

[SoulRaven]

Is Slick 50 a friction reducer like NMF Ionic Friction Reducer (Which I am planning to buy to try it out)?
NMF Ionic Friction Reducer claims to be a fluid additive which is compatible with any type of fluid; engine oil, trans fluid, hydraulic fluid, brake fluid, differential fluid, even gasoline and diesel! Very skeptical because all the videos I found about it on YOUTUBE are from the company that manufactures it. Has anybody tried NMF Ionic Friction Reducer?

I'm not familiar with the NMF product, but Slick 50 is a friction reducer, and I believe more.  I believe that it is only an oil additive.  It also has been around for many years now, so that says something too.

 

[highdesertranger]

you cannot disconnect 4 spark plug wire on a v8 and get better mpg. you will get worse mpg. in fact you can't even disconnect 1 wire and get better mpg. I doesn't work that way at all. I am not going to go into the whys right now. the way to better mpg is a engine that is in good mechanical condition, that's running at its peak performance, and the way a person drives. there is no magic elixir, there is no fancy doo dad, that will magically get you better mpg. PERIOD. sorry but that is plain fact. there is no such thing as the tooth fairy, santa clause, or the easter bunny. highdesertranger

 

[GotSmart]

There are some engines like the Cadillac L62 V8-6-4 that were designed to run on fewer cylinders when they had less load but they involved complicated systems of valve control not just pulling plug wires on a standard engine. Nothing reproducible by an individual.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Variable_displacement

Guy

Now that system was a prime example of wishful thinking by the marketing people.  There was a LOT of Coke in the Detroit auto industry then. (Early 80's) They never got that one to consistently work.

 

[highdesertranger]

yep I remember that one well. basically you have to stop the compression stroke from happening. not an easy task. highdesertranger

 

[Gary68]

you guys are old

cylinder deactivation is pretty common these days

http://www.jdpower.com/cars/articles/tips-advice/engine-cylinder-deactivation-saves-fuel


the shade tree method is pretty ridiculous,you have to remove the pushrods/lifter and exhaust valves of the cylinders you want to shut down and leave the intake closed and all this ends up with having a heavy v8 with 4 cylinder power but you do gain a couple mpg

and here in a couple years you are going to have to learn to work on k.e.r.s. i'm sure squishy is going to love that

 

[GotSmart]

you guys are old

cylinder deactivation is pretty common these days

http://www.jdpower.com/cars/articles/tips-advice/engine-cylinder-deactivation-saves-fuel


the shade tree method is pretty ridiculous,you have to remove the pushrods/lifter and exhaust valves of the cylinders you want to shut down and leave the intake closed and all this ends up with having a heavy v8 with 4 cylinder power but you do gain a couple mpg

and here in a couple years you are going to have to learn to work on k.e.r.s.  i'm sure squishy is going to love that  

Just because I have extremely fond memories older than you are~~~ 

As is the engine in my van!  

Both are still running strong.

 

[highdesertranger]

ok let me try to explain this disconnecting of cylinders.
1. you just can't cut the spark to a cylinder. why, if you do you have what is called a misfire. your engine runs rough, fuel economy drops. why, because the cylinder is compressing air and fuel. the fuel is wasted, and energy is required to make the compression stroke.(think of an air compressor).
2. with todays computer controlled engines and common rail fuel injection it's easy to cut the fuel. but you still have the compression of air. this requires energy. you can't have an air compressor that runs for free, so you are robbing power that would go to propelling the vehicle into compressing air.
3. so now you need to stop the compression. if you think that's easy think again. you just can't stop the vales from opening, that doesn't work because unless you have a vacuum you still have air in the cylinder that is going to compress. so you need a valve to stay open.
4. this cannot be an intake valve because the you are pushing the compressed air backwards though the intake system. bad very bad.
5. so you leave the exhaust valve open. this is your best bet, but how are you going to stop the exhaust valve from closing to stop compression. not an easy task plus is that valve going to hit the piston at the top of your compression stroke? probably, next.
6. you install a whole new valve that is electronically controlled to open and close on demand from the computer. this is not an easy task. to withstand the huge psi during compression and to open and close reliably several times a minute for the life of an engine, not to mention the extremely high temperatures of combustion. it is not going to be reliable for the long term.
so in review you need to cut the fuel, easy. then you need to stop compression with a whole new system in your engine. can you say money and loss of reliability. highdesertranger

 

[Txjaybird]

ok let me try to explain this disconnecting of cylinders.
1.  you just can't cut the spark to a cylinder.  why,  if you do you have what is called a misfire.  your engine runs rough,  fuel economy drops.  why,  because the cylinder is compressing air and fuel.  the fuel is wasted, and energy is required to make the compression stroke.(think of an air compressor).
2.  with todays computer controlled engines and common rail fuel injection it's easy to cut the fuel.  but you still have the compression of air.  this requires energy.  you can't have an air compressor that runs for free,  so you are robbing power that would go to propelling the vehicle into compressing air.
3.  so now you need to stop the compression.  if you think that's easy think again.  you just can't stop the vales from opening,  that doesn't work because unless you have a vacuum you still have air in the cylinder that is going to compress.  so you need a valve to stay open.
4.  this cannot be an intake valve because the you are pushing the compressed air backwards though the intake system.  bad very bad.
5.  so you leave the exhaust valve open.  this is your best bet,  but how are you going to stop the exhaust valve from closing to stop compression.  not an easy task plus is that valve going to hit the piston at the top of your compression stroke?  probably,  next.
6.  you install a whole new valve that is electronically controlled to open and close on demand from the computer.  this is not an easy task.  to withstand the huge psi during compression and to open and close reliably several times a minute for the life of an engine, not to mention the extremely high temperatures of combustion.  it is not going to be reliable for the long term.
so in review you need to cut the fuel,  easy.  then you need to stop compression with a whole new system in your engine.  can you say money and loss of reliability.  highdesertranger

Now  I am confused   :s  I am just worried he's [debit servus] going to blow the thing up and put somebody's eye out with the flying debri [bits and pieces]......is this the same van that caught fire with gasoline in a spray bottle squirted in the carb. while it was being driven down the road?  All kidding aside this situation is sounding way to dangerous to mess with. 
 No one has to agree with me...I'm just saying...TJB

Sorry High Desert Ranger I didn't mean this post..just the over all situation suddenly made the hair on my arms stand up...that's always a bad sign. 
 I'm to damn tired to retype in a "New Reply", forgive me?     Jewellann

 

[highdesertranger]

yeah, I was just trying to point out how impractical it was to cut cylinders out. highdesertranger

 

[GotSmart]

I fear you are just giving him ideas.   :s

 

[highdesertranger]

hahaha, in that case all I can say is good luck. highdesertranger

 

[debit.servus]

....
Several years ago I was asked to replace a foundation on a house.  One look at the place and I informed the owner that replacing the granite blocks under his 130 year old building would do nothing to help the building.  Between the termites, and the tornado, is house was not repairable.  It was a money pit.

We built a new home for the cost of the one repair without wasting a penny on the current building. 

Debt is in a similar situation.  He is not facing the issue. He will not even admit to the issue, and you guys keep getting sucked into his drama.  :s

So you're saying another van would be cheaper than correcting the engine and trans issues on this one?

ok let me try to explain this disconnecting of cylinders.
1.  you just can't cut the spark to a cylinder.  why,  if you do you have what is called a misfire.  your engine runs rough,  fuel economy drops.  why,  because the cylinder is compressing air and fuel.  the fuel is wasted, and energy is required to make the compression stroke.(think of an air compressor).
2.  with todays computer controlled engines and common rail fuel injection it's easy to cut the fuel.  but you still have the compression of air.  this requires energy.  you can't have an air compressor that runs for free,  so you are robbing power that would go to propelling the vehicle into compressing air.
3.  so now you need to stop the compression.  if you think that's easy think again.  you just can't stop the vales from opening,  that doesn't work because unless you have a vacuum you still have air in the cylinder that is going to compress.  so you need a valve to stay open.
4.  this cannot be an intake valve because the you are pushing the compressed air backwards though the intake system.  bad very bad.
5.  so you leave the exhaust valve open.  this is your best bet,  but how are you going to stop the exhaust valve from closing to stop compression.  not an easy task plus is that valve going to hit the piston at the top of your compression stroke?  probably,  next.
6.  you install a whole new valve that is electronically controlled to open and close on demand from the computer.  this is not an easy task.  to withstand the huge psi during compression and to open and close reliably several times a minute for the life of an engine, not to mention the extremely high temperatures of combustion.  it is not going to be reliable for the long term.
so in review you need to cut the fuel,  easy.  then you need to stop compression with a whole new system in your engine.  can you say money and loss of reliability.  highdesertranger

Wow that involved? Not worth it. Thanks for the info though.

hahaha,  in that case all I can say is good luck.  highdesertranger

Not going to turn the V8 into a V4.

If you desire to read about my travels and modification process if I get another rig, this is the thread. Instead of creating a thread in "Captains logs", why not post my lifes story in this thread, to keep it all in one place.

 

[ascii_man]

Since you want high fuel economy for long-distance travel, are willing to compromise a stealth by carrying a trailer (even with illegal cargo), and place a premium on comfort (your "pampered ass"), thhis van is a poor fit for your goals.

I suggest that you get the smallest A-Liner[2] you can tolerate, and get the most fuel-efficient car that can tow it.

This way you don't have to try to improve the fundamental technologies of a competitive, global industry with a $105 billion / year innovation budget[1] and a 110 year head start on you.

Here[3] are some cars with really good fuel economy. I'd be a little surprised if you could tow with them[4][5].

Safety first, but most people today think you need a huge truck to tow anything, but traditionally, Americans towed "whatever with whatever" [6] (granted, the old body-on-frame cars with huge 7-liter engines were inherently better tow vehicles than today's cars). So if you want to push the envelope, that's where to push. I don't know much about towing, but you need to be careful about brakes (electric trailer brakes should cover this) and transmission (transmission cooler or manual transmission).


But that's what I would do: I'd look at towing capacities (both rated and real-life) and fuel economy and also at what's actually available.

Good luck.

[1] http://www.strategyand.pwc.com/reports/infographic-auto-industry-findings
[2] http://www.cheaprvliving.com/blog/living-traveling-pop-aliner-trailer/
[3] http://www.motherearthnews.com/gree...hicles/miles-per-gallon-cars-zb0z11zblon.aspx
[4] http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/20...eat-american-towing-conspiracy-lives-edition/
[5] http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2015/05/piston-slap-10/
[6] http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2016/01/piston-slap-monolith-panther-tow-vehicle/#comment-7236321

 

[debit.servus]

Transmission fluid is on it's way from WALMARTs warehouse in BentonVille, AK (a place I desire to explore with the rest of the US and CANADA, everywhere BUT California). When it arrives thinking of sucking the burnt fluid out with a small vinyl tube to avoid removing the transmission pan and dealing with that mess. Since the van hasn't traveled 60,000 miles since the trans fluid was changed, planning on just removing the burnt fluid and fill it up. Can only afford a Mexican repair right now. Then get the van insured again and go to the flea market.

 

[debit.servus]

Just ordered NMF Ionic Friction Reducer 16 oz size. I'll report back if it makes the HFT 3200w generator quieter and/or helps out the vans engine. Should create a video review about NMF for YOUTUBE as it helps people know if this product does what it claims. All the videos I found on NMF Ionic Friction Reducer were by the company who manufactures it. Surprised the "hundreds of satisfied customers" haven't posted any videos about it good or bad, the only credible source I found with user experince were the Amazon.com reviews. Either this stuff is so good people keep it to themselves or it's snake oil that does jack shit. If it makes a positive difference I plan to share it with everybody I know, like I have for the $300 mostly assembled 2-stroke motorized scooter from ScooterWholesales.com (which is going strong nearly 2 months after first ride!) and the $120 motorized bike kits from EBAY.

Don't waste your money on SEAFOAM, GUMOUT or any other gasoline additive other than PRI-G fuel stabilizer. PRI-G Fuel Stabilizer is a ultraconcentrated friction modifier (the main ingredient in fuel additives) with the added benefit of treating gasoline for long term storage. ChrisFix on YouTube has tested the most popular fuel additives, including SEAFOAM and GUMOUT to find they didn't live up to their claims.
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLvKbarVtwhUue-xwasd2WUMrkK0CEm6yy

 

[debit.servus]

For anybody who wants a 1986 DODGE B250 "mechanics special" extended high-top van nows the time to let me know! $2000 OBO.

 

[debit.servus]

!!! Or Best Offer !!!

 

[NeedAnEscape]

$2000 for a van that caught fire twice and has a bad transmission?