Wire crimping tutorial

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Great read! Thanks for posting. The guy has 'the ultimate set of tools, man...)
 
You guys here got me thinking about the topic. Think I'll play with the HF crimper, and try rotating the wire to get a proper crimp, now that I know what I'm looking for. When I get a set wires properly crimped, using larger wire, I also plan to add a few built-in power points to charge the cell phones, and iPads. His and hers... Lol
 
This is a great site. Maine Sail posts very good information on the "boat" forums. He makes his knowledge freely available. This link was posted here before but it is really worth re-posting.
 
Seraphim said:
You guys here got me thinking about the topic. Think I'll play with the HF crimper, and try rotating the wire to get a proper crimp, now that I know what I'm looking for. When I get a set wires properly crimped, using larger wire, I also plan to add a few built-in power points to charge the cell phones, and iPads. His and hers... Lol

I purchased a cheap hydraulic crimper from Amazon for my build and proceded to sacrifice 4 lugs to learning how to use it. What I learned:

1. you are going to need at least 3 hands (and preferrably 4) to hold the wire, hold the lug in place, hold the crimper, work the lever.
2. start with the largest crimper that will compress the lug and then use the next smaller, rotating the crimper 60°, until you get the crimp you want. For AWG 4 wire, I did this 3 times. This minimizes the 'ears' on the crimp.
3. hacksaw a sacrificial lug to verify you are making a good crimp.
4. Tested the lug connection to 50 lbs (hanging weight).

The lugs don't look as good as MaineSail's, but I only paid $20 for the crimper. Couldn't see spending $100+ for a tool I will only use 10 or 12 times. I cannot measure a voltage drop across the connection, but that might be my crappy VOM. Followed up with shrink wrap over connection.

I got a 5 ton hydraulic crimper thinking that would be enough but I had to really work to get the crimp I wanted.

Hope this helps -- Spiff

P.S. Each 12V to 5V USB plug ins have a constant 0.01 amp parasitic draw (~1/4 amp hour a day), so I am going to put a switch in line next chance I get.
 
Spaceman Spiff said:
P.S. Each 12V to 5V USB plug ins have a constant 0.01 amp parasitic draw (~1/4 amp hour a day), so I am going to put a switch in line next chance I get.

Is this applicable to all outlets or just the USP plug-ins?

I'm about to start designing my electric layout so if a switch for each will stop parasitic draw, I can include them in the design.

Oh, and would a audio sound shop be the best place to have crimping done? I don't have 4 hands, absolutely no strength anyways and there is no such thing as 'cheap' tools here in Canada, so I'm going to be looking for someone to do the crimping for me (after I read up on it and know what they're supposed to be doing).
 
Almost There said:
Is this applicable to all outlets or just the USP plug-ins?

I'm about to start designing my electric layout so if a switch for each will stop parasitic draw, I can include them in the design.

Oh, and would a audio sound shop be the best place to have crimping done? I don't have 4 hands, absolutely no strength anyways and there is no such thing as 'cheap' tools here in Canada, so I'm going to be looking for someone to do the crimping for me (after I read up on it and know what they're supposed to be doing).

It would be applicable to any device that changes voltage (in the case of USB, 12V to 5V or an inverter, 12V to 110V). They use a little bit of power to convert the voltage even if no current is used. Cigar lighter plugs are open (i.e. no current passes through them unless you plug something into them).

There are a number of places on line that offer custom cables. I have had good luck going to a Catapillar dealer to get hydraulic lines crimped when I could not do it. They would use the same equipment to crimp electrical cables. An audio shop also could, as can an auto parts place, or a marine repair shop. All of them can give you good crimps or bad crimps, depends on who does it and what they use. You need to know what to look for or get a recommendation from someone that does. Get a VOM and learn how to use it. Check out the cables before you accept them or make sure they have a return policy.

-- Spiff
 
Almost There said:
Is this applicable to all outlets or just the USP plug-ins?

I'm about to start designing my electric layout so if a switch for each will stop parasitic draw, I can include them in the design.

Oh, and would a audio sound shop be the best place to have crimping done? I don't have 4 hands, absolutely no strength anyways and there is no such thing as 'cheap' tools here in Canada, so I'm going to be looking for someone to do the crimping for me (after I read up on it and know what they're supposed to be doing).

I think he means there's only draw when a USB device is plugged in...


Or am I wrong?
 
Spaceman Spiff said:
It would be applicable to any device that changes voltage (in the case of USB, 12V to 5V or an inverter, 12V to 110V). They use a little bit of power to convert the voltage even if no current is used. Cigar lighter plugs are open (i.e. no current passes through them unless you plug something into them).

There are a number of places on line that offer custom cables. I have had good luck going to a Catapillar dealer to get hydraulic lines crimped when I could not do it. They would use the same equipment to crimp electrical cables. An audio shop also could, as can an auto parts place, or a marine repair shop. All of them can give you good crimps or bad crimps, depends on who does it and what they use. You need to know what to look for or get a recommendation from someone that does. Get a VOM and learn how to use it. Check out the cables before you accept them or make sure they have a return policy.

-- Spiff

Thanks, I'll read up on it first and then go talk to several shops before I choose one to do the work! I'm all about knowing what they're supposed to do so I know if they can do the job right. Knowledge is power and I've always been 'powerful' when it comes to the mechanical end of vehicles...well until I ended up with newer computerized vehicles...now all bets are off...sigh!

Great idea about marine repair shops, I happen to have several as customers.

The electrical system pre-wiring is one area where I'm probably going to just have to bite the bullet and pay Canadian prices for it. Chances of including it on one of my US shopcations is slim.
 
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