why not insulate the exterior instead?

[LeeRevell]

It'll ruin any idea of "stealth", for those needing it.

 

[ArtW]

Hmmmm, only version of this I ever heard of was elastomeric roof coating, but that's mostly a radiant barrier I think
Elastomer over spray foam? Dunno if that's a likely idea, just popped in my head right awy, so i let fly with it

 

[sushidog]

How about insulating paint?

Here's one brand: http://www.lizardskin.com/

Here's another: http://www.hytechsales.com/prod1000.html

Chip

 

[Mobilesport]

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...bUTcTYgkFOqf02uCg&sig2=ghUoa_1wBhfDXY_dejpQWw

 

[Mobilesport]

http://www.autoblog.com/photos/lithuanian-foam-car/

 

[Richard]

It'll ruin any idea of "stealth", for those needing it.

We're barely tossing around the idea. In mentioning possible approaches for a prototype, of course aesthetics are going to be low on the list of priorities. However, if the prototype proves functional then there's plenty of opportunity to refine appearances, as may be seen in the following suggestions and examples:

... elastomeric roof coating. Elastomer over spray foam?

How about insulating paint?

Here's one brand: http://www.lizardskin.com/
Here's another: http://www.hytechsales.com/prod1000.html

Lots of possibility here. And, given the radical sculpting & finish of the Lithuanian foam car that Mobilesport linked to (below), I'm encouraged that this approach need not be doomed to poor aesthetics (though I was looking forward to seeing my van wrapped in Reflectix, looking like a wannabe Airstream )

~~~

http://www.autoblog.com/photos/lithuanian-foam-car/

Inspirational!

 

[LeeRevell]

It always comes down to the finishing skills of the builder, as to how good it will look. In any case it will look "different" from anything out there, and would naturally invite interest and closer scrutiny. You won't ever "blend in" anywhere. But, I personally do not subscribe to the "stealth" thing.
Before doing something drastic, I would try one of the "insulating paints", like Bus Coat or similar. That may suffice.

 

[ZoNiE]

I saw a Ford SuperDuty that had the rear seat area of the cab and a sleeper installed and all connected and fiberglassed together. The guy was a long haul, um, hauler, who transports boats cross country. The pass side had the rear door, the driver side had the door covered with his insulated fiberglass plywood thing.

 

[Richard]

I would try one of the "insulating paints", like Bus Coat or similar.   That may suffice.

Excellent advice/conclusion, in agreement with other comments along the way. I wasn't familiar with this family of products except for a presumed knowledge that 'insulated paint' probably wasn't even close to the effectiveness of 'real' materials like fiberglass, foam, etc.

I've been reading hytech's site and have tentatively concluded that 2 of their products may well satisfy my goals.

If I had to pick just one product, I'd choose this one:
http://www.hytechsales.com/prod85.html
Reducing radient heat seems like the biggest bang for the buck (to me, so far).

That said, I'm wondering whether that might serve best as a kind of top-coat over this:
http://www.hytechsales.com/prod2000.html

Using both may be overkill but given how inexpensive the products are, and how easily applied they are, is There any compelling reason not to consider both?

 

[KASibson]

What ya need is a van-cozy.
Like you wrap a teapot in to keep it warm.
Big old warm wrap to keep the heat (or cool) inside.
Like a car cover people get for a posh car, only insulated.

 

[Almost There]

Using both may be overkill but given how inexpensive the products are, and how easily applied they are, is There any compelling reason not to consider both?

One consideration to research before using both products is whether or not they will adhere to each other. First layer has to adhere to vehicle...not a problem as it's designed to do that although prep work/chemicals may be necessary.

The second product is also probably designed to adhere to the body of the vehicle not to another painted product. If it won't adhere to the first type of insulation product used, six months down the road you're going to have peeling, lifting, patches etc. etc.

 

[tripper]

I knew an old rock hound 25 years ago that had his van outside covered in spray on foam/protective overcoat. It was an older job at that time and the van looked absolutely horrible, like a big melted sponge. I am sure the insulation did help some, I never did ask him about it. I bet it messes with the gas mileage though.

 

[TrainChaser]

I would bet there isn't a single foam-type insulation that is UV-resistant.

 

[ArtW]

I'll put my money with TrainChaser's on that

 

[VanKitten]

I found this link.....

http://rvroof.com/flexarmor/

I was actually thinking if this would work for the entire exterior.

Then, I thought of someone here a while back that did the zbart thing o his whole SUV.
I was going to try to hunt up that link....I might do it to the RV (only 19feet..so maybe)

 

[CraigL]

There are many sprayable insulating coatings and foams; most need an exoskeleton for surface hardness, UV barrier, and/or aerodynamic smoothness.
But early none can be injected *under one?
While a resin engineer might suggest a vacuum-forming process that fiberglas shops call "vacuum-bagging," it'd need a slower-curing material, like 60 mins.
Maybe there's a foam that can be delayed?
If so, use a UV-resistant roofing sheet for the exterior. This would basically be *casting a new exterior in-place, using the vehicle body as the interior mold, the sheet as the outer mold, inside a (temporary) sealed plastic bag with a "breather" layer.
Just my 0.02