Where do I want to place the in-line fuse from the charge controller to the battery?

[Maggie Flinn]

Where do I want to place the in-line fuse from the charge controller to the battery? I also need to know what is better to use, a butt splicer or a twist cap type.


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[Weight]

The fuse must go very near the positive battery terminal. If the wires are sized proper, you don't need one at the controller. I don't know what you mean by butt splicer. But twist caps are not for DC wires, they are designed for solid wire used in houses. These fuses work well for battery banks. You want Properly crimped ends on your wire.

 

[DuneElliot]

My charge controller had pre-cut cables that came with it as well as the fuse. My fuse is close to the battery.

I personally prefer crimp and heat style splicers as they seem more solid but everyone is different

 

[tx2sturgis]

Don't use wire nuts for this. A butt splice is OK if done correctly.

The main fuse should preferably be within 6 to 12 inches of the positive post.

 

[Maggie Flinn]

Don't use wire nuts for this. A butt splice is OK if done correctly.

The main fuse should preferably be within 6 to 12 inches of the positive post.

Thank you. Btw, I bought one of those usb, usb plug, volt meter combo. It had 2 red wires and one black. When I hooked it up it only said six volts when it should be over 12. So I hooked the reds up to separate batteries and it fried the negative wire. It didn’t come with directions so not sure how it’s supposed to work. Any suggestions for trying it again? The plugs and switch actually worked when it showed 6 volts but I wanted an actual reading.


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[Maggie Flinn]

My charge controller had pre-cut cables that came with it as well as the fuse. My fuse is close to the battery.

I personally prefer crimp and heat style splicers as they seem more solid but everyone is different

I actually have some of those shrink wrap deals. I will look into that. Thank you


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[tx2sturgis]

Thank you. Btw, I bought one of those usb, usb plug, volt meter combo.  It had 2 red wires and one black. When I hooked it up it only said six volts when it should be over 12. So I hooked the reds up to separate batteries and it fried the negative wire. It didn’t come with directions so not sure how it’s supposed to work. Any suggestions for trying it again? The plugs and switch actually worked when it showed 6 volts but I wanted an actual reading.

Are you talking about a panel-mount volt-meter that has a USB port? What's this about a switch?

I assume the reds are gonna be positive for the volt meter and USB port, and the black is a common ground or negative.

I have a few guesses but can you send a picture or link or a name and model number, so I can figure out what you have there?


:huh:

 

[blmkid]

..... but can you send a picture 

If needed, here's a link on adding photo to your post: https://vanlivingforum.com/Thread-How-To-Add-a-Photo[/SIZE]

Please be extra careful with your electrical. Even with 12 volt. Electrical term, "fried" = $$

Like they say, " a picture is worth a thousand words"..

 

[jacks18614]

By adding a fuse between the controller if the fuse blows it will close that connection resulting in a fried controller when the solar panels start to produce voltage/amperage.

 

[Weight]

No. The controller will not be "fried". Nothing will happen except the controller will reset when the battery is reconnected. There MUST be a fuse on any cable at the battery positive terminal.

 

[tx2sturgis]

By adding a fuse between the controller if the fuse blows it will close that connection resulting in a fried controller when the solar panels start to produce voltage/amperage.

It would actually open the connection, not close it, and the fuse there is a safety device, in case the controller had a massive failure shorting the input, or wires downstream get shorted to each other or the vehicle frame or body.

Emphasis again on SAFETY. It is MUCH better to prevent burned up wires and a burned down vehicle than to worry about a 'fried' $100 controller. Large batteries store a LOT of energy and we ignore that at our peril.

Here is an example of scorched and burned wires that were on a battery WITHOUT a fuse:



Had this temporary battery harness, which accidentally got shorted about 2 weeks ago and burst into flames, been in close proximity to wood or blankets or anything flammable, it could have been really bad!


And some (maybe most) solar controllers, including all four of mine, are NOT damaged by loss of battery connection. I can't say that all are protected, but at least some controllers are.