What's the SMALLEST (BTU) RV Roof A/C now made?

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bobinyelm

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I am looking to downgrade from a 13,500 BTU A/C the prior owner installed in the roof of my 9.5ft BigFoot truck camper.

The "factory" size was 7700BTU, and that was plenty for 100+ temps, but the P.O. thought a 13,500 would cool faster (probably true), but I want to be able to use my Honda 2000i Genset with my A/C. I haven't found the "old" 7700 BTU unit online-it seems everyone wants over-kill these days!

The smallest I've been able to find currently is a Coleman 9200 BTU unit that exceeds the continuous duty of my little genny.

Since I already have the roof air all wired up, I don't want to go cutting holes for window A/Cs, and there no room for a portable roll-around type inside.

Thanks,
Bob
 
You might ask this question on the rv.net forums. Lots of truck camper & class B owners over there.
 
Good idea, but since most folks here also "live small," and try to conserve power, I thought it was worth a try.
 
Yes, I belong to the Casita Forum, and Casita now mounts those on their TTs, and some find it works fine (though they are apparently noisy), while others say their units struggle with it.

I have a Coleman 8300 BTU on MY older (2002) Casita, and my Honda powers it OK.

Maybe someone has an old Coleman Mini-Mach 7100 unit sitting in a box somewhere (I just learned they were available into the early 2000's). I located good-used one a fellow was willing to give away (I was willing to pay up to $300 for a good-working unit), but he'd already given it to someone free.

Bob
 
Great notes about Honda 2000 being able to power a 8300 btu air conditioner or smaller. Was wondering about that. Was also speculating that if you boondock that you might be able to run the quiet Honda all night. With no neighbors of course. Anyone have issues with running a generator all night ? Living in hot sticky south gives me speculation thoughts about this.
 
If the current genset won't power the currnet AC, why not tackle the problem from the opposite side? Replace the genset with a larger unit that can power the AC? Might be cheaper.
 
I agree with Lee, for several reasons.
1. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
2. Removing a roof A/C to replace it will leave an exposed hole which may or may not fit the new unit.
3. If the hole is smaller, enlarging it involves cutting away the old sealing lip and creating a new one.
4. If the hole is larger, spanning the gaps with a surface strong enough to hold weight is tough.
5. You can simply daisy-connect a similarly silent second Honda 2000 and double the wattage supported.

Bob
 
Bob - you can daisy chain generators ? Did not think you could. Out of sync waveforms could put power in the wrong place. If DC yes. Not AC.
 
Direct from the Honda website ...

Double your power with Parallel Capability

Parallel capability is an additional benefit of inverter technology.

Using a special cable or kit, you can link two EU1000i, two EU2000i, two EU3000 Handi, or two EU3000is generators together to get as much as double the output. (Please note: you can only parallel two identical units together.)

This gives you extra power when you need it, without having to trade up for a larger, heavier generator. You get more power without sacrificing portability.

Honda also offers a special Companion version of the popular EU2000i with a built-in 30-amp receptacle. This model is designed specifically for parallel operation with another EU2000i. It's also perfect for RV and use with a transfer switch, where a 30A outlet might be preferable.
 
Wanted to know why they don't make a 5k or 8k unit for smaller rigs...
 
Harmonica - ouch ouch ouch. $15 for a night of AC powered by AC. Damn money math. How dare you intrude on my plans to cause global warming.
 
The Honda 1000 and 2000 are both designed to parrellel with others of their same size to become a 2000 or 4000 watt generator.

But Yamaha makes a 2400 that they claim is designed specifically to run a 13 K BTU AC and I know people who do it. It would be cheaper than two 2000s. Of course there is the Honda 3000 that will run it no problem and can be bought with electric start.

The size of the hole will not be an issue, nearly all ACs use a standard 14x14 vent hole so they are interchangeable.

The real problem is that the standard 13K BTU ACs put out way too much cold air for a van or camper. You really want something better sized for the small space or it will be constantly on and off (too hot then too cold then too hot...)and it's getting them turned on that is too hard for the genny.

By far the better choice is getting a right sized AC. A single Honda 2000 is going to burn less gas than any of the other choices and the AC will be properly sized.

Bob
 
The generator won't be running full bore all night - it will go back down to idle when the AC is not running. The better insulated your van and more efficient the AC, the less gas it will use.

They make adapters for the Honda so you can run a hose to any gas can you like, no more filling or running out in the middle of the night.
 
How about put in a room air conditioner that sits on floor and that vents out floor or a window via a vent pipe? I have one in my bus that is 8kbtu from Lowes. Cost 300 bucks and I vent it thru bus floor. I have pic but dont know how to post.By the way I power mine with a Honda eu2000. You could keep the 13btu for when you are on the grid. I did get a coleman 12k btu that is supposedly able to be run by honda eu2000. I have had it for awhile on my enclosed trailer but have never tested it. It is suppose to have a easy start feature that allows the honda to do it.
 
Most complaints i have read about running the honda for AC is on economy the honda will not kick up fast enough to start the AC.
 

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