What do I do with the wires?

[LivingandLearning]

I am looking for how to connect the wires going coming off the battery to some sort of a fuse box. Right now they're all just hanging off the battery. When something goes wrong it's a big mess.   I'm looking for someone to just tell me what I need and maybe post the amazon links to  buy it.  Hopefully, it won't cost too much, and it will be simple to install.  Here's what I have:

In:
300W Renogy solar
PWV charge controller
160 AH battery -- may add another
Alternator charger


Out:
Current voltage meter
Fantastic Fan
300W Inverter
2 12V accessory plugs with USB chargers
May add more at a future date

I want to install this in a box with the batteries so I don't have to see any led lights!  Something that mounts with screws to a wall surface would be ideal.  I liked the looks of this sort of fuse box:
https://www.amazon.com/KKmoon-Blade...qid=1505076775&sr=8-2&keywords=12v+fuse+block
but I'm not sure what to do with the negative wires.  I think I'd need a busbar, but now that all seems a little complicated.  Any pictures you could post of how you tied everything together would be very helpful.

Thank you!
Tracy

 

[jonyjoe303]

depending on how much amps your passing on the negative sides, I use small wago t[font='Helvetica neue', Helvetica, Verdana, sans-serif]erminal block lever home wire connector 5 pole , they can handle up to 32 amps and 12 gauge wire. You just slide the wire in the holes and close the lever, its a solid connection. They don't take up much space and its better then trying to solder all the negative wires together like I use to do.[/font]
[font='Helvetica neue', Helvetica, Verdana, sans-serif]lever connectors[/font]


[font='Helvetica neue', Helvetica, Verdana, sans-serif]The inverter you might want to connect directly to the battery with heavy gauge cable if you plan on using all 300 watts. [/font]

[font='Helvetica neue', Helvetica, Verdana, sans-serif]The fusebox on amazon looks good and it will be easy to install. Its a good price. [/font]

[font='Helvetica neue', Helvetica, Verdana, sans-serif]This is what my fusebox looks like, on mine I use the xt60 connectors for everything (they can handle up to 60 amps and are easy to connect disconnect. I put switches on my fusebox but you don't need them and it would be easier without them. To the right is where the house battery connects. The red wire goes to the fuses and the black wires get split up and go to the negative side of the connectors.[/font]

 

[highdesertranger]

I would stay away from cheap electronics. for the fuse block I would go with Blue Sea. cheap stuff fails at the worse possible time. ask me how I know. highdesertranger

 

[John61CT]

+1 on paying a bit more for known-good marine brands

Compare BEP/Marineco also

PKSYS and Bay-Marine fairly priced sellers.

 

[Almost There]

The solar/controller will need it's own heavy duty fuse block as will the solenoid/alternator system.

For wiring the outlets and the fan go with something like a Blue Sea fuse block. It will have more circuits than you need right now but you'll thank yourself in future when you want to add more outlets or lighting.

If you ever end up with more than 4 lugs on a terminal at the battery then you can always add in a buss bar but for right now you're not up there yet.

You'll probably also want to neaten up the wiring with cable staples. I used ones like this to nail down all the wires to the wood in my 'electrical room'...lol.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gardner-Bender-50-Count-7-16-in-Plastic-Low-voltage-Cable-Staples/4633401

 

[Weight]

Yes. what they said. use quality parts such as Blue Sea.

 

[LivingandLearning]

Would this do everything I need right now and for a little in the future?

http://shop.pkys.com/Blue-Sea-5026-ST-Blade-Fuse-Block-with-12-Circuits_p_1615.html

Blue Sea 5026 ST Blade Fuse Block with 12 Circuits

 

[mayble]

to begin, have you seen this?
http://www.cheaprvliving.com/electrical/installing-12-volt-fuse-block/

 

[Almost There]

Would this do everything I need right now and for a little in the future?

http://shop.pkys.com/Blue-Sea-5026-ST-Blade-Fuse-Block-with-12-Circuits_p_1615.html

Blue Sea 5026 ST Blade Fuse Block with 12 Circuits

Yes!

And it's easy to wire as well.

I have all 12 circuits in use because I could. Each 12V outlet has it's own circuit as does the fan in the roof vent and each of my lights.

 

[highdesertranger]

that last fuse panel is fine but do you need the grounding buss that is included. it's a little cheaper without the ground buss. highdesertranger

 

[LivingandLearning]

to begin, have you seen this?
http://www.cheaprvliving.com/electrical/installing-12-volt-fuse-block/

That seems to be exactly what I was looking for!  Thanks!

Tracy

 

[LivingandLearning]

that last fuse panel is fine but do you need the grounding buss that is included.  it's a little cheaper without the ground buss.  highdesertranger

:huh:  Are you referring to the negative terminals at the top of the box?  Or do I need a separate buss thingy?  How do I know whether I need a buss?

Tracy

 

[John61CT]

As stated you don't want to pile up connections on a terminal.

Once up to 3-4, or if they don't lie flat for max surface area, you need a buss.

 

[John61CT]

This

in order to avoid this

 

[AlasKen]

to begin, have you seen this?
http://www.cheaprvliving.com/electrical/installing-12-volt-fuse-block/

This is a great article on how to add a fuse block.  Nice job Bob.  I wanted to share just a little that might also be relevant.  I wired my boat using a similar fuse block but a little larger, more circuits.  I believe an RV or van application has a lot in common with a boat.  Harsh climates, vibration, and you don't want to have problems in the middle of no where.  I have just a couple of items to think about.

Use marine rated or tinned multi strand wire of appropriate size.  I think 14 AWG would be acceptable for most uses unless you have an energy hog.  There are on line calculators to help with sizing.

Use heat shrink crimp connectors.  These are connectors that after crimping you apply a heat gun or in my case a bic lighter to heat the ends and they shrink and melt an adhesive to the wire making a water tight seal.  These greatly reduce the chance of corrosion at the connector.

Use an ratchet crimper, especially if you are getting older like me and your wrist strength isn't what it used to be.  Also if you are a young buck with Popeye fore arms this will prevent over crimping a connector.

Add a battery switch and fuse from the house battery to fuse block to protect your wiring and allow quick isolation in case of a short.

I also use an ACR (Automatic Charging Relay) on my boat to have an Aux or "House" battery.  This allows my motor to charge my starting battery and my house battery at the same time.  When the motor is not running, ie there is not current going to the batteries, the connection is broken preventing the house current from discharging the starting battery.  I carry a short jumper wire so I can connect the house battery to starting battery if needed.  Below is a short explanation from WestMarine

ACR's or Automatic Charging Relays are automatic switches that close when the voltage on one of the batteries rises to a level (normally 13.2V to 13.7V) indicating the battery is connected to a charge source and is partially or fully charged. The switch then closes and shares the charging current with the other battery until the voltage drops to some lower level (normally 12.4 to 13.1 depending on model) and the switch opens. This prevents discharging both batteries when there is not enough current to charge both batteries.    

I hate to chase electrical problems and following these steps has helped me prevent that.

 

[LivingandLearning]

This

in order to avoid this

Could I just use the bussbars?  Like put the positives on one and the negatives on another?

 

[GotSmart]

Here is a system I helped build along with several others.  

ONE wire to the distribution point keeps the spiderweb from happening.

https://vanlivingforum.com/showthread.php?tid=22635&page=4&highlight=bLEEp

 

[John61CT]

Could I just use the bussbars?  Like put the positives on one and the negatives on another?

You can do what you want, just make sure you have circuit protection somewhere where appropriate.

Distribution boxes help keep things neat and organized.

 

[HumbleBeginnings]

I'm using this fuse block and it's the same or similar to what others recommended.

You run one wire from your battery's positive terminal to the fuse block, then one wire from your battery's negative terminal to the fuse block. Then you use regular automotive blade fuses to keep all of your circuits protected. You don't need a bus bar with this because it has both positive and negative terminals.

Edit, here's a pic from Amazon showing the negatives on top, and the positives on the bottom by the fuses: