Wall panel- interior

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Kathy

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Has anyone tried/know someone that tried using plastic wall panels for their interior walls?  I was thinking that it would be lightweight, bright, and easy to clean, but I'm not sure about the moisture/mold issue.  Would plastic over the polyiso insulation encourage/contribute to moisture or mold since it's non-porous?  I also considered paneling, again light-weight, but don't want the off gassing.  Maybe the plastic off gasses too. Not sure how to think about this and I searched the web for any info on this and don't find it.  Any thoughts??  Thank you!
 
Some plastics radically expand and contract with extreme temperatures which might cause some problems. I have not but others have used TightBond III glue and Harbor Freight drop cloths directly on insulation foam to stiffen it and create a durable surface to which you can use water based acrylic exterior house paint or decorate with brown paper to give a shiny leather look. There are some videos on YouTube showing cabinets and shelves built in vans if you are interested in this method.
 
I use the sticky tape covering you can find at dollar store small rolls or home depot/walmart for the large rolls, and use that to cover my foam insulation and you can also use on foamboard. Makes for very lightweight panels.
I run a swampcooler every summer and never had any mold issues or problems with the heat affecting the sticky tape.

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I believe the outgassing lessens in time. When I was building houses I liked to let the OSB subfloor breathe out a few months before putting the finished floor on it, it was pretty noticeable at first, much less so after a few weeks. If you can store the material a couple-few weeks where it can get air or let the vehicle air out well before sleeping in it it should help.
 
There are "paintlike" products that seal the surfaces of wood and wood-composite products. I think they're available at Home Depot and Lowe's, but I don't remember what they're called. I was thinking of using it on thin sheets of luan.
 
bullfrog said:
Some plastics radically expand and contract with extreme temperatures which might cause some problems. I have not but others have used TightBond III glue and Harbor Freight drop cloths directly on insulation foam to stiffen it and create a durable surface to which you can use water based acrylic exterior house paint or decorate with brown paper to give a shiny leather look. There are some videos on YouTube showing cabinets and shelves built in vans if you are interested in this method.
I'll check it out.  Thank you!
 
Thank you, all, for your input and information!
 
Kathy, I myself, would not use plastic for walls.. But, if you think about it. and that is the direction you go.. 99% of auto interiors are plastic.. There is a ton of ventilation behind a vehicles interior.. so there is never and issue of mold..
 
I used what is essentially plastic for the interior walls of my van — fiber reinforced plastic (FRP) panels. It's the bumpy white stuff you see in places like public restrooms. I mounted it with the bumpy side inward and painted the smooth "back" side. Now most of it is covered with travel stickers. I used it because it was easy to flex to the curves of the van.

I used 1/8" plywood for the ceiling.

I don't worry about mold or mildew because I'm usually in very arid climates.
 
I used coroplast for my walls. Thats the corrugated plastic stuff that mail totes and campaign yard signs are made of. Its lightweight and cheap compared to plywood and FRP.
When I first had the idea I was excited because it is available in lots of colors.
Except 'global supply chain' yadda yadda so I ended up with only white so far.
Still going to try and score some blue or black for making drawers and cubbies out of.
The other downside is that it is not listed as flame retardant. So I am leary of cooking near it.
Might get some kind of metal sheeting to put along the wall and ceiling when I install a counter and sink.
As far as mold. From what I understand with foam board that is less of an issue than it is with yellow or pink fiberglass batting.
Though I think that is said by sources that assume you are talking about an unmolested 4x8 of foam board. Not foamboard that has been cut up to fit the irregular shape of vans/RVs.
My camper van conversion is only a few months old. But so far I've been through a bit of rain with no funny lingering smells.
 
Is it important that the finish be a hard surface? Scamp trailers have a fuzzy marine headliner on walls and ceiling, affectionately dubbed "rat fur" by owners. Casitas have marine headliner that looks more like commercial carpet. But both materials are flexible and easy to install in fussy, curvy places, and don't mold or absorb condensation.

Is there something about this stuff that makes people not want to use it?
 
Nataliee said:
If you want to replace your motorhome interior wall with something that suits your taste, the first thing you need to know is what RV interior wall is made of? Typically, manufacturers will use materials such as Composite Plywood consisting of many ultra-thin pieces of wood glued together to form a thick and large sheet; Medium-density fiber-optic panels using only two wood veneer panels. or Vinyl-there is synthetic compounds, mainly plastic for the Interior Walls.

Nataliee.................Tell me more about the Fibre-optic panels..................
 
Kathy said:
Has anyone tried/know someone that tried using plastic wall panels for their interior walls?  I was thinking that it would be lightweight, bright, and easy to clean, but I'm not sure about the moisture/mold issue.  Would plastic over the polyiso insulation encourage/contribute to moisture or mold since it's non-porous?  I also considered paneling, again light-weight, but don't want the off gassing.  Maybe the plastic off gasses too. Not sure how to think about this and I searched the web for any info on this and don't find it.  Any thoughts??  Thank you!
Sounds like a great idea! I'm sure the colors will be amazing. Give it a try and if it doesn't work out you can try something different in the future, but honestly I think it will look great and last better than half the rv interior stuff you see
 
Calaverasgrande said:
I used coroplast for my walls.

And if you seal up the edges of each panel, you get a little insulation value.
 
The fuzzy wall materials in the fiberglass trailers are usefull in preventing the condensation you get when warm moist air hits cold smooth surfaces. Bascally it is the result of the dew point phenomena. It can be quite annoying in vans and cars. Happens a lot on cold nights in the small confined volume of air in a vehicle. Thiss moisture issue is created by the moisture in your exhaled breath. It also comes from activities such as cooking and heating water for beverages.

If you are in a location where condensation is an issue then plastic walls are not the best choice, a fuzzy marine headliner fabric on the walls and ceiling will work better for you.

My bed is against the walls on 3 sides and it is not a wide bed so my sides or back get cold if I roll against it. My travel trailer is insulated but not heated all night. Dry climate or not the Arizona desert gets pretty cold a night in mid winter months. So for this coming winter I am going to make some quilted "crib bumpers" to attach to the walls that I bump my body against when in bed. I will use microfiber blanket fleece fabric with quilt batting sandwiched inside. So basically I am making quilted runners. The microfabric cloth dries quickly and these custom bumpers can be washed and dried along with my other bedding. There are many ways to solve issues in RV spaces that are basically seasonal problems. Condensation on glass is another one which is why window coverings are also put into the equation of dealing with insulating interior surfaces. Floors and ceilings can also accumulate condensation. You might not always be in warm dry climates so if you like to roam be prepared for all situations in your choices.
 
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