Ventilation

[Gvannin]

Hey all ... quick question...how important is instaling a ceiling vent fan? I have a savana with the only opening windows being the driver and pass. Windows up front.
Worried about cutting hole for fan in terms of future leaks etc. Does any1 here go without ? What are consequences??

ThNks

 

[Moxadox]

There is no law that one must have a ceiling vent/fan. But they are awfully good to have when it's hot, or there's a risk of condensation because of high humidity. Nothing like moving air to keep the inside of your van from smelling like a bear's been hibernating in it.

Properly installed vents have overlapping layers and should not leak. There is also good sealing goo that prevents water getting into your outside seal. I'm sure the YouTubers have thoroughly covered this, because it's so important.

Don't get discouraged. I'm sure it's a scary thought to cut into your virgin roof! But many have gone before you, and it doesn't seem to be too difficult. Good luck!

The Dire Wolfess

 

[lenny flank]

I have no vent fan in my Savana, and I also have no rear windows. But I keep the front windows cracked all the time--in summer to let the heat out, and in winter to let the condensation out.

Does fine for me.

 

[Wabbit]

I keep a window cracked(about an inch) that's installed in my hightop(think sliding plastic with a screen) near the rear and then I keep a small triangle window cracked in my front passenger door(also about an inch, opposite sides of van, cross ventilation) and I still get a lot of condensation inside my van. I can't really compare the amount to what it would be if I had a roof vent. The inside of the hightop definitely shows condensation almost like windows do. There's no liner or material to soak it up and hide it. If I can get another vehicle, I am definitely installing a roof vent\fan. Best of luck!

 

[lenny flank]

^^^^ Not enough air circulation, then. Crack the windows wider, and use a small electric fan to get some airflow.

 

[ckelly78z]

Couldn't you cut a long thin vent underneath the roof drip rail in the back (which would prevent most leaks, and not ruin a "virgin" roof) ? This way, you could also get a cross ventilation going between the back vents, and the front windows (left 1" open) to potentially allow a breeze to blow through on hot days.

If done properly, you could also close the rear vents, and the front windows for no ventilation if needed.

 

[jonyjoe303]

My advice is don't install a ceiling vent. I got 3 of them on the roof of my astrovan and never use them. I thought I did a good job installing them but 5 years later everytime it rains I been getting water in my van and next to impossible to find where its leaking from. 
Instead use side vents, its all I use, I have them feeding a swampcooler. I rely on massive foam insulation to keep cool. It works alot better then the roof vents.

You can find these side vents at home depot, less then 5 dollars. They have even larger ones. A 30 dollar cordless jigsaw from harbor freight is all you need to cut the hole. On the inside just put a endless breeze fantastic fan next to the vent and you have your ventilation.

 

[Wabbit]

Thanks Lenny, will do that and leave an oscillating fan run over night to get more circulation.

 

[maki2]

One of the primary reasons to have a roof vent has to do with security. You can have the roof vent open in situations where you want or need to have the windows and door closed. It is also good for stealth situations because it is not normal for someone to leave windows open if they leave their vehicle parked in a lot or on the street or even in their driveway.

Of course sidewall louvers can also help with situation of security and stealth.

But if you don't have the budget or skills for either you will have to make do with the window open (and rain coming in)

 

[RVTravel]

Top vents are not stealth to me

 

[Plant]

Leaks are not an issue with a roof fan is installed correctly. If that is your primary concern, don't let it stop you. A proper leak proof install will consist of proper size hole, putty mounting tape and screws, and finally lap sealant applied around all edges and screws.

 

[lenny flank]

Never had any difficulty with either stealth or security. Or rain--they do make rainguards for my van, but I've never needed them. I don't get much rain coming in unless it is really heavy rainfall, then I close the window.

 

[B and C]

My roof vent is going on at least 18 years old and has never leaked. As was stated, a proper sized hole with a good layer of butyl tape to place the vent on and followed up with Dicor around the edges will work wonders. This is not the place to scrimp on installation costs. No to silicone caulking anywhere.

 

[Doubleone]

I've noticed every time I replace something on my RV that gray butyl tape is always hard, dried out, and cracked.  I don't understand why RV manufacturers keep using butyl when there are so many good urethanes available.  I'm totally sold on Dicor, easy to work and stays flexible for years.  I'd omit the butyl and use just the Dicor to bond the vent to the roof.  Seal it up and let it cure by itself overnight then come back and screw it down.  You can screw it down right away, but it squeezes out most of the sealant.  Dicor over the exterior screw heads and the edges of the vent your finished.

I've used SuperFlex brand but it shrank too much, cured thinner and harder.  I've also used a 3m produce in the past (can't remember which number) and was wholly disappointed. It was so thick it wouldn't flow, got stringy if you tried to work it, shrank up and cracked along the seam after one year.  It was bear to peel it off so I could Dicor over it.  I've peeled Dicor after a couple of years and it was still thick and flexible (nice and chewy), adhered real good but still easy to peel with a putty knife.  Dicor is maybe a buck or two more, but IMHO very much worth it.  Good stuff...

 

[B and C]

They keep using the butyl tape because it just works. My roof vent is 18 years old and not leaking...