- Joined
- Jan 9, 2011
- Messages
- 1,349
- Reaction score
- 306
Thanks Maki! You're right. I tried hanging some silver "dance" fabric, and it did next to nothing to mitigate heat gain. You've given me another whole product group to consider.
VanFan's Once and Future Vans
- Thread starter VanFan
- Start date
Help Support Van Living Forum:
It comes in different thickness of foam. Sometimes you can find the camping pads ranging about to 3/8” thick on EBay. The thicknesses are often stated in millimeters.
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2011
- Messages
- 1,349
- Reaction score
- 306
Picked up a cheap, thin reflective windshield shade at the thrift store for under a dollar. It covers the longest side window in the back. Won't do much in terms of insulation, but slips behind the pull down shade and folds up compactly. If it seems to be sufficient, I'll look for more at the dollar store.
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2011
- Messages
- 1,349
- Reaction score
- 306
We've taken a few short trips, and things are coming together nicely.
The rear storage is similar to the Once Van, with a large cooler sitting on the little plywood platform I made for it, and a drain line running out the door. Chairs, pop-up privy shelter, emergency triangles and auto supplies go under the bed and below the cooler platform. (I subdivided this space with a tailgate net, so those things don't slide forward.)
The legs and one shelf from a 24 x 30 x 14 wire shelf set taken from the house have worked well on the other side. The shelf holds the pantry box (same 'ole gray Sterlite tote). Beneath it are the stove, 5 pound propane tank and cookware and utensils. Extension cords hang on a purpose made Velcro loop. Under the bed, there's a roll-up aluminum table and my oven, with plenty of room remaining. The CLAM may end up here, since we rarely use it.
I'll bore you with more later. Promise.
The rear storage is similar to the Once Van, with a large cooler sitting on the little plywood platform I made for it, and a drain line running out the door. Chairs, pop-up privy shelter, emergency triangles and auto supplies go under the bed and below the cooler platform. (I subdivided this space with a tailgate net, so those things don't slide forward.)
The legs and one shelf from a 24 x 30 x 14 wire shelf set taken from the house have worked well on the other side. The shelf holds the pantry box (same 'ole gray Sterlite tote). Beneath it are the stove, 5 pound propane tank and cookware and utensils. Extension cords hang on a purpose made Velcro loop. Under the bed, there's a roll-up aluminum table and my oven, with plenty of room remaining. The CLAM may end up here, since we rarely use it.
I'll bore you with more later. Promise.
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2011
- Messages
- 1,349
- Reaction score
- 306
For the outside of the van, or atop the CLAM maybe?
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2011
- Messages
- 1,349
- Reaction score
- 306
Cab curtains are up.
Rods are a challenge in a conversion van. In the Once Van, a length of PVC conduit was zip tied under some wood trim on the ceiling behind the seats.
For the Future Van, I hack sawed off some curtain rod hardware on hand, and wedged those pieces between the ceiling headliner and an upholstered wooden box housing a ridiculous 32" TV. A 48" long, 1/2" thick dowel ($2.40 at Lowe's) painted black makes a decent, no-rattle rod.
Curtains: Once Van had black thermal backed drapes. For Future Van, I wanted something light so the "stack" when opened would be minimal in case we ever actually watch that ridiculous TV. I used inexpensive microfiber sheets from Walmart. These are semi-sheer, which is fine because we use twist and pop-out window covers in the cab. The curtains' main purpose is quick privacy and to cover the aforementioned ridiculous...
(For sewing those thin microfiber sheets, I found a microtex needle extremely helpful!)
Tiebacks: Velcro wraps worked well in the Once Van. Hanging them on the grab bar over the side door helped me keep up with them. The Future Van has no grab bar because of side curtain air bags. Also, Velcro would quickly shred the sheets. Plastic butterfly style hair clips (like used in salons) to the rescue--two neat ponytails in seconds. On the driver's side, the curtain can be clipped to the window valance to cover the inevitable gap. On the passenger side, I use a medium binder clip (stays on the curtain), poking one handle in a gap in the pillar trim.
Rods are a challenge in a conversion van. In the Once Van, a length of PVC conduit was zip tied under some wood trim on the ceiling behind the seats.
For the Future Van, I hack sawed off some curtain rod hardware on hand, and wedged those pieces between the ceiling headliner and an upholstered wooden box housing a ridiculous 32" TV. A 48" long, 1/2" thick dowel ($2.40 at Lowe's) painted black makes a decent, no-rattle rod.
Curtains: Once Van had black thermal backed drapes. For Future Van, I wanted something light so the "stack" when opened would be minimal in case we ever actually watch that ridiculous TV. I used inexpensive microfiber sheets from Walmart. These are semi-sheer, which is fine because we use twist and pop-out window covers in the cab. The curtains' main purpose is quick privacy and to cover the aforementioned ridiculous...
(For sewing those thin microfiber sheets, I found a microtex needle extremely helpful!)
Tiebacks: Velcro wraps worked well in the Once Van. Hanging them on the grab bar over the side door helped me keep up with them. The Future Van has no grab bar because of side curtain air bags. Also, Velcro would quickly shred the sheets. Plastic butterfly style hair clips (like used in salons) to the rescue--two neat ponytails in seconds. On the driver's side, the curtain can be clipped to the window valance to cover the inevitable gap. On the passenger side, I use a medium binder clip (stays on the curtain), poking one handle in a gap in the pillar trim.
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2011
- Messages
- 1,349
- Reaction score
- 306
Rear Curtains: Made from bottoms of front cab curtain sheets and hung just behind the head of the bed on a bungee cord hooked into slots between upholstered wood trim covering rear a/c components and van side walls.
Once Van has thermal blackout curtains on a shower curtain rod that block cold air from the rear doors and windows. These are too thin to do that, but are good for a little privacy.
Once Van has thermal blackout curtains on a shower curtain rod that block cold air from the rear doors and windows. These are too thin to do that, but are good for a little privacy.
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2011
- Messages
- 1,349
- Reaction score
- 306
More window covers: I love, love, love windows! New to me with the Future Van are "Vista Cruise" windows in the high-top. These are probably a bad idea for the long-term, but I really enjoy seeing trees, clouds, hawks, and stars from bed! Also, I can stand up (I've shrunk!) and look out them without being seen. What fun!
The downside is that the sun and moon can be too bright at times. To cover those windows only where and as needed, I found pillowcases (left over from the cab curtain sheet set) folded in half lengthwise do the job. To hang them? A few small binder clips on the edge are all that's needed. With the clip handles up, I rotate the edge toward the upper wall/ceiling joint, then insert the handle nearest me into the crevice. Clips don't show, and the pillow cases are just the right height and width. Takes second to put up or take down, and easy to store.
The same thing works to hang a length of sheet over the front side door when I want it open, but need a little privacy. The Once Van had a set of thermal backed drapes on a bungee across the side doors, but that won't work in the Future Van.
The downside is that the sun and moon can be too bright at times. To cover those windows only where and as needed, I found pillowcases (left over from the cab curtain sheet set) folded in half lengthwise do the job. To hang them? A few small binder clips on the edge are all that's needed. With the clip handles up, I rotate the edge toward the upper wall/ceiling joint, then insert the handle nearest me into the crevice. Clips don't show, and the pillow cases are just the right height and width. Takes second to put up or take down, and easy to store.
The same thing works to hang a length of sheet over the front side door when I want it open, but need a little privacy. The Once Van had a set of thermal backed drapes on a bungee across the side doors, but that won't work in the Future Van.
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2011
- Messages
- 1,349
- Reaction score
- 306
Screens: Bought a set of Skeeter Beaters for the front windows of the Once Van before our last beach run. They are pretty decent, but pricey. (I was in a hurry.) They fit the Future Van just fine.
The Once Van has full length screens for the side doors and rear doors. I had modified a set of purchased house screens, and they were great. They could be left in place at all times, or peeled back for better access when needed.
For the Future Van, I first ordered Agri(something) screen because the holes were larger than no-seeum mesh and I thought the increased airflow would be nice. It tore right out of the package, so I sent it back.
Skeeta No-Seeum Netting from Amazon is much nicer! Channeling Bob, "I highly recommend it." It does not tear or ravel, is soft and packs down small with very little wrinkling. It cuts beautifully with a rotary cutter, and is very easy to sew. The mesh is completely stable in one direction, with some stretch on the cross-grain. A couple rows of machine stitching prevent distortion in that direction.
I "harvested" bar magnets and binding/channeling from the Once Van's rear door set. This time, I placed the opening further forward (centered on the front side door) to make it a little easier for my tall spouse to get out.
For the sides, I used button magnets sewn into pockets at 6" intervals. The ones from Walmart's craft aisle are too wimpy. Rare earth magnets are too strong and hard to use. The Goldilocks mags came from JoAnn's (last two packages on the shelf, and they are going out of business). The screen's sides tuck in beside the door gaskets and don't interfere with closing the doors.
The challenge, then, was affixing the top edges. Magnets would never do the job. In the Once Van, I was able to staple Velcro to some wood under upholstery above the doors. No such option in the Future Van. What works is medium-size binder clips on the rain gutters just below the high top. Again, no problem closing the doors.
As well as the binder clips work, I need to source something else because they will rust in no time at the beach. I have some spring clamps I used to use for clipping a tarp to rain gutters, but they strain my hands too much now. Maybe plastic Pony clamps.
I'll have to figure something else out for the tops of the rear door screens, since there are no rain gutters. I'm still thinking about SNADS stuck on the fiberglass above the doors.
The Once Van has full length screens for the side doors and rear doors. I had modified a set of purchased house screens, and they were great. They could be left in place at all times, or peeled back for better access when needed.
For the Future Van, I first ordered Agri(something) screen because the holes were larger than no-seeum mesh and I thought the increased airflow would be nice. It tore right out of the package, so I sent it back.
Skeeta No-Seeum Netting from Amazon is much nicer! Channeling Bob, "I highly recommend it." It does not tear or ravel, is soft and packs down small with very little wrinkling. It cuts beautifully with a rotary cutter, and is very easy to sew. The mesh is completely stable in one direction, with some stretch on the cross-grain. A couple rows of machine stitching prevent distortion in that direction.
I "harvested" bar magnets and binding/channeling from the Once Van's rear door set. This time, I placed the opening further forward (centered on the front side door) to make it a little easier for my tall spouse to get out.
For the sides, I used button magnets sewn into pockets at 6" intervals. The ones from Walmart's craft aisle are too wimpy. Rare earth magnets are too strong and hard to use. The Goldilocks mags came from JoAnn's (last two packages on the shelf, and they are going out of business). The screen's sides tuck in beside the door gaskets and don't interfere with closing the doors.
The challenge, then, was affixing the top edges. Magnets would never do the job. In the Once Van, I was able to staple Velcro to some wood under upholstery above the doors. No such option in the Future Van. What works is medium-size binder clips on the rain gutters just below the high top. Again, no problem closing the doors.
As well as the binder clips work, I need to source something else because they will rust in no time at the beach. I have some spring clamps I used to use for clipping a tarp to rain gutters, but they strain my hands too much now. Maybe plastic Pony clamps.
I'll have to figure something else out for the tops of the rear door screens, since there are no rain gutters. I'm still thinking about SNADS stuck on the fiberglass above the doors.
bullfrog !
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 23, 2021
- Messages
- 2,401
- Reaction score
- 2,649
^^^ If you have problems with hand strength when removing snaps many boat shops carry a snap removal tool that makes it easier.
bullfrog !
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 23, 2021
- Messages
- 2,401
- Reaction score
- 2,649
The “specially” designed snap tool fits perfectly onto the snap and never touches the material the snap is attached to preventing damage to the expensive material the others may rip or poke through.
My advice quit wondering if SNADs are going to work and order a few of them and do an add ctuaa a l function test to see if they will AGM sheet to the surface you want to use them on. That way you cans also find out how hard it will be unsnap a screen material from them.
I do not know about you but I can’t stand speculating for months or years wondering if something is going mg to work or not work. I just jump to the testing phase and see if it work or not, there is always a plan B, C and D options around.But it sounds like me you have a strong desire to try out SNADs so just do it, order some and see if they work on the surface you want to apply them to.
You could literally have some in your hands within a week or two. If you are in the Seattle area the Fisheries Supply Store on the North side of Lake Union has a variety of types of SNADS for sale right in the store. That was my go to neighborhood store for lots of stuff as I got a deep discount there courtesy of my good friend I did work for. My travel trailer renovation has a whole lot of items from Fisheries supply I used in fiberglass trailer renovation. Electrical, plumbing, fiberglass, epoxy resins, seals, gaskets, fasteners, my house battery, adhesives, paint and lots more. Of course I noticed the SNADs as well and checked them out carefully a number of times for their potential use. But I did not end up needing them. Living right in Seattle’s waterfront boat community and being a boat owner I learned about Sailrite and its sewing machines and canvas work more than 30 years ago. Including knowing about SNADs. Seattle Fabrics is another great resource for outdoor materials including bug screening as the supply tent making and outdoor gear fabrics and notions. Unfortunately once the pandemic started they went permanently to online or phone orders. I used to love going there to buy my outdoor fabric supplies in person.
I do not know about you but I can’t stand speculating for months or years wondering if something is going mg to work or not work. I just jump to the testing phase and see if it work or not, there is always a plan B, C and D options around.But it sounds like me you have a strong desire to try out SNADs so just do it, order some and see if they work on the surface you want to apply them to.
You could literally have some in your hands within a week or two. If you are in the Seattle area the Fisheries Supply Store on the North side of Lake Union has a variety of types of SNADS for sale right in the store. That was my go to neighborhood store for lots of stuff as I got a deep discount there courtesy of my good friend I did work for. My travel trailer renovation has a whole lot of items from Fisheries supply I used in fiberglass trailer renovation. Electrical, plumbing, fiberglass, epoxy resins, seals, gaskets, fasteners, my house battery, adhesives, paint and lots more. Of course I noticed the SNADs as well and checked them out carefully a number of times for their potential use. But I did not end up needing them. Living right in Seattle’s waterfront boat community and being a boat owner I learned about Sailrite and its sewing machines and canvas work more than 30 years ago. Including knowing about SNADs. Seattle Fabrics is another great resource for outdoor materials including bug screening as the supply tent making and outdoor gear fabrics and notions. Unfortunately once the pandemic started they went permanently to online or phone orders. I used to love going there to buy my outdoor fabric supplies in person.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2011
- Messages
- 1,349
- Reaction score
- 306
Thanks for the info. about unsnapping screens and the encouragement to give things a try.
For the side door screens, I did buy some plastic pony clamps that are easy on the hands. I had to buy a set to get the size I needed, but the price was right and I ended up putting the next size up to good use in making the countertop. (Binder clips are better, except for the rust factor. Thought about Rustoleum, but didn't do it.) Pony clamps make good "handles" for opening the screens to go in and out.
Although I tested to make sure the doors can close over the screens, I neglected one...little...thing. The latching mechanism at the top of the rear door pierced the screen. Mending. Yuck.
Done with screens for now, but will be back for the back!
For the side door screens, I did buy some plastic pony clamps that are easy on the hands. I had to buy a set to get the size I needed, but the price was right and I ended up putting the next size up to good use in making the countertop. (Binder clips are better, except for the rust factor. Thought about Rustoleum, but didn't do it.) Pony clamps make good "handles" for opening the screens to go in and out.
Although I tested to make sure the doors can close over the screens, I neglected one...little...thing. The latching mechanism at the top of the rear door pierced the screen. Mending. Yuck.
Done with screens for now, but will be back for the back!
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2011
- Messages
- 1,349
- Reaction score
- 306
Gulp. Another "thing" I didn't think about before "designing" and constructing my teeny-tiny sink/counter area: the water jug is noisy when it sloshes!
The Once Van had a 6 gallon round water bottle with a manual "dolphin" pump. It was quiet, whether partly or completely full.
This is the jug I'm using under the counter of the Future Van: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BZP8N6J9?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
I just dispensed one gallon of water from a fill station into this 3 gallon jug, set it on the floor of the Prius, and couldn't believe how much noise it made!
I am going to have to do something about this. Any ideas would be much appreciated!
The Once Van had a 6 gallon round water bottle with a manual "dolphin" pump. It was quiet, whether partly or completely full.
This is the jug I'm using under the counter of the Future Van: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BZP8N6J9?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
I just dispensed one gallon of water from a fill station into this 3 gallon jug, set it on the floor of the Prius, and couldn't believe how much noise it made!
I am going to have to do something about this. Any ideas would be much appreciated!
Send it back to the seller. Those multiple changes of shape, in and out plus the hollow handle up the side are creating a lot of turbulence. Think about how noisy a stream with a lot of rocks in it is compared to a stream with smooth banks and bottom. Go for a container that has smoother surfaces for water to silently move across.
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2011
- Messages
- 1,349
- Reaction score
- 306
Ouch. You're right, and that's a problem. I actually have two. One is still in the box fresh from Amazon. The other came from an innovative Etsy seller. He made a simple adapter with a 3D printer that can be used in place of the spigot to accommodate an included USB pump. I've always been skeptical about the reliability of those pumps, but did want to give one a try. The spigot provides a manual back-up. The pump (actually a different one with a spout that closes as a hedge against spontaneous discharge) is attached to the jug, which is under the counter. This allows for water bottles to be filled during brief stops. (A half-sheet baking pan underneath can be pulled out a bit to catch any drips. It also serves as a sink cover/heat resistant surface when inverted on the counter top.)
The lid on the large opening in the jug has a vent hole that accommodates tubing for a second pump that sits on the counter top when we are stationary and provides running water for the sink. The fall back option is to set the jug on the counter with the spigot in place and positioned over the sink.
All this has been tested at a standstill and works quite well--especially given the space constraints. Everything fits together very tidily. However, as you have pointed out before, there are major differences between fixed and mobile applications! Today's mission was to verify that the jug would be easy to fill from water stations before opening the second one. I wish I'd done it sooner, because it's going to be very hard to go back to the drawing board.
The obvious alternative would be to suck it up, but in addition to be annoying, all that "wave action" can't be good for the jug, structurally. Sigh...
^^^ put them on Facebook Market place and find something else that fits the space. Maybe the adapter you bought will fit a different jug. Designers typically make threads on containers match the common sizes of caps that are available rather than trying to have a cap custom made for the container. My base of knowledge about such things is a bit different than most peoples as I lived and worked with a professional product designer for twenty years before I went full time on the road. He did a lot of injection molded design work for clients. Designers do not design everything such as caps from scratch, instead they choose openings and the threads to put into the design that match standard sizes of caps that can be purchased. This has to do with the cost of making the injection molds, that means the fewer molds needed to bring a container to market the more profit from the product. So caps get purchased from catalogs and containers are designed to match the common cap sizes. So chances are your specialty adapter cap will fit onto a number of other water containers. Ask the Etsy seller if they know of other brands it works on.
As to the water sloshing around in the container causing damage, that is unlikely to cause any significant wear to the interior plastic surface. It is only going to wear on your peace and quiet factor for a pleasant drive.
As to the water sloshing around in the container causing damage, that is unlikely to cause any significant wear to the interior plastic surface. It is only going to wear on your peace and quiet factor for a pleasant drive.
Last edited:
