[font=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]"Stalling out and having problems starting again is by far the most stressful part of this."[/font]
Your ECM/PCM is the likely culprit. You can throw every part at this that you want, until the ECM is the only thing left to replace, and that is how you diagnose a bad ECM/PCM, it seems, unfortunately.
These dodge ECMS are so prone to failure as they are located at the very top of the engine compartment, baking, and the 90+ wires in bundled connector's weight is effectively leaning on the solder joints inside the PCM's circuit board with not nearly enough strain relief.
Sometimes the wire pressure is just so...... so that a broken solder contact that was touching enough to pass current 99.99% of the time, hit that specific threshold of temperature and flexibility where contact is lost, and a stall occurs, and it will not restart until the ECM connector is wiggled just so, to reestablish contact and allow normal engine function, until the next time, when clinching your butt cheeks mid intersection in the bad part of town.
Next time it stalls, put it in park, leave the key on, and go wiggle the connectors at the ecm/PCM. Do you hear relays click on and off? If so, bingo.
Disconnect battery,
Remove ECM connectors and inspect wires or contacts for anything obvious. Look closely at the pires and pins/sockets on the edges or the top of the ECM connectors
Flush out old dielectric grease with crc QD cleaner or similar economical electronic connector cleaner sold in auto parts stores, and mechanical means of dental mini bottle brushes.
Reinspect connectors, pins and barrell/ sockets with strong light and magnification. See if any of the pins can be easily wiggled more than 1 mm in any direction with tweezers. If so, it is likely the solder contacts on the circuit board are compromised.
Use Caig DeOxit d5 spray on this cleaned connector to remove the oxidation from the conductive surfaces. It might look clean, but unless it gleams like oiled chrome or Brass, it is oxidized and causing resistance or even causing an open circuit/ no conductivity.
Inside the sockets there are little spring arm/ claspers designed to grab the pin tightly. You can carefully rebend these inward slightly with a fine sewing needle to exert more pressure on the pins, ensuring better contact.
If the Van still stalls after this, then the solder contacts inside the PCM, where the connector pins mate to the circuit board, are compromised, and need to be resoldered.
Sometimes Zip tying the connector or wire bundles tight to the ECM body can seemingly eliminate the issue, for a while, but eventually those broken solder contacts cannot be assuaged to cooperate.
I was dealing with a bad PCM issue from November too January 2015. I could not find anybody who would resolder my PCM's pins, So I learned how to do it myself. But basically this was originally a connector issue, that progressed into a solder breaking issue over 8 to 10 years of 'Zip tying' the connector.
Not a single stall since January 2015 and my resoldering, but I still say I am going to get a backup PCM just to have, not only for diagnostics, but for the reason that to find a good remanufactured ECM/PCM when necessary, is not necessarily possible or convenient when necessary, and as time goes on, perhaps less likely.
Try the ECM connector cleaning. Do not disregard the necessity of the Caig DeoXit d5 contact cleaner after cleaning out all the old crusty dielectric grease from the connectors No other product can compare. This stuff is magic electrical contact juice. I never open any such connector without a can of Caig DeOxit d5 spray and some precision swabs to ensure good conductivity, and how I wish they compensated me for this praise of their product.
http://www.amazon.com/CAIG-DeOxit-Cleaning-Solution-Spray/dp/B0002BBV4G
http://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Cotton...&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=tamiya+precision+swabs
http://www.amazon.com/Dentek-Slim-B...=1462604479&sr=8-1&keywords=dentek+slim+brush
The following is a sample pack of most of their products, with a few precision swabs and brushes/ applicators. Try cleaning, lubing the USB contacts of your phone or other devices with Gold g5.
http://www.amazon.com/DeoxITKit-Ind...id=1462605355&sr=8-9&keywords=caig+deoxit+kit
Do not fall into the trap of seeing dielectric grease inside the connector, and declaring the connector fine and dandy. I found hideously oxidized contacts in my 89 dodge van despite them being firmly immersed in dielectric grease their whole lives.
Do ensure the main battery cable (-) to engine and to firewall shine like silver on their mating surfaces, and are tight.
Any signs of green or white corrosion on the battery terminals/ cables or creeping up the wire insulation, and replace them. Do not do anything until you eliminate the battery cables and main grounds. Then use Deoxit in the pre cleaned connectors. If that does not work, then you need to get a new PCM, or have yours resoldered/ fixed.
Make sure the rather massive wire bundles to the engine computer connectors cannot put their weight on the ECM, transmitting vibration to it and fracturing those solder joints.
Really if the ECM is the issue, wiggling the connector should produce some result indicating it is the issue.
Stock up on Zip ties, long enough to wrap around the whole ECM, and prepare for some trial and error when exerting pressure on a corner of a connector in a certain manner, until the relays click on, and stay on, then see if the engine starts
Good luck, let us know what you find.
