SternWake said:Here is the connector I foolishly declared pristine after cleaning it with CRC QD cleaner:
You can just see the little spring claspers inside the sockets.
After I got the Deoxit, the d5 saturated swabs I used in this cleaned connector turned black and got shredded as if it was 220 grit sandpaper and after the caig D5 application the insides of those sockets gleamed and felt like oiled chrome. the 14 sockets shredded 6 precision swabs and turned them black. the 7th swab was rerun though every socket again and came out in perfect condition and still pink colored from the D5.
Still took a sewing needle and bent the claspers inwards to grab the pin with more pressure.
SternWake said:I did watch a lot of Macguyver as a child in the 80's. Part blessing, part curse. Retasking everything has its uses, but can lead to junk collection.
Best o luck with the new PCM.
On the middle socket in photo above, on the right side at about 3:30, you can see the edge of one of the springy Pin claspers meant to firmly grab the pin. Its tin plating has worn off and one can see the brass. These are not rated for many connection disconnection/recconection cycles. less than 10 before these claspers are bent out of the way not doing their job and one is 'hoping' the pin/socket is touching firmly elsewhere inside the connection.
Magnification, strong light and a sewing needle is all it takes to rebend these arms inward a smidge, to ensure a better connection on the first reseating of the connector. Doing so will give the connector the best possible chance of not failing or causing a similar failure mode which likely contributed to your current pcm failure.
the only thing i don't know is if the pcm will be plug and play, or will it need to be formatted by the dealer, etc.SternWake said:I did watch a lot of Macguyver as a child in the 80's. Part blessing, part curse. Retasking everything has its uses, but can lead to junk collection.
Best o luck with the new PCM.
On the middle socket in photo above, on the right side at about 3:30, you can see the edge of one of the springy Pin claspers meant to firmly grab the pin. Its tin plating has worn off and one can see the brass. These are not rated for many connection disconnection/recconection cycles. less than 10 before these claspers are bent out of the way not doing their job and one is 'hoping' the pin/socket is touching firmly elsewhere inside the connection.
Magnification, strong light and a sewing needle is all it takes to rebend these arms inward a smidge, to ensure a better connection on the first reseating of the connector. Doing so will give the connector the best possible chance of not failing or causing a similar failure mode which likely contributed to your current pcm failure.
SternWake said:On that year, I do not know either. Sorry.
Tyr Dodgetalk.com or dodgeforum on the B van subforums.
drewker said:its a done deal either way now... all i need it to do right now is get me back to the bay area. worst case i can just take public transit and stay at airbnb rentals
I have to agree absolutely that the pattern of discoloration is *very* strange... The components which should be generating the most heat are those black plastic squares with the 3 leads on one side and a little flange on the opposite side - they're either power transistors or MOSFETs. The heat doesn't at all appear to be localized like that... its diffuse nature is most odd.
I can't resolve any such large component component near ground zero, which to me appears to be along the heavy trace from connector lead #10, but something sure made that area most unhappy!
I wonder if there's something mounted to the opposite side of the board, like a massive top hat transistor or heatsink?
Something like that would lead to a more diffuse heating. Those power transistors typically are rated for 50-100 watts apiece; plenty to lead to charring of epoxy.
I totally agree with your assessment of the condition of the connectors surface mount leads. They're not in crystal clear focus, but in what I can see there is a definite narrow line of excessively light color running across each lead, along the bond line, which is out of place, and which would be entirely typical of the crystallized solder of solder fractures.
Solder fractures like that cause the signals to be subjected to intermittent higher resistance or even total signal dropouts, which can create all manner of havoc, from loss of control of an external circuit to loss of a sensor input to the module, to oscillation of a circuit. Oscillation causes a circuit to switch rapidly from ground to full power supply rails, which can lead to nonsensical symptoms and violent uncontrolled heating.
Even lead #8 isn't stellar in quality, and it appears to connect to a resistor across leads #6 and #8, which is likely used as a load for an external circuit which determines the presence of this plug in module, perhaps by coding a different value of resistor depending on the revision of the module. This could alter the system performance, like for instance 6 cylinder versus 8 cylinder, 360 vs 318, high altitude versus sea level, 117 amp alternator versus 100 amp alternator, California emissions versus the rest of the universe, etc...
I'm surprised that the heated area doesn't include the entire length of one of the heavy traces, or the 0.5 ohm sense resistor on the left; that small value resistor is typical of a shunt resistor used in a high current circuit... Rather than use a large solid metal shunt like we do in our high current cable circuits, most on-board electronic circuits just sense the voltage developed across a tiny value resistor like that.
I wonder if resoldering those connector leads would improve his situation? There's a lot of mischief which can be going on when so many leads are involved, especially when two of them are the heavy traces indicative of high current circuits...
I hope the new ECM doesn't bankrupt him, and that it works properly.
Did you determine if the chassis ground is essential to ECM function, as it is on my vintage of ECU module, being the essential electrical ground? If it is, please drive home to him the importance of scrupulously cleaning that area around the bolt holes, on both the firewall and on the new ECM, and of perhaps smearing some Silicon dielectric grease, antisieze compound, or at least some grease on the area to reduce moisture and Oxygen attack.
If it is a ground, those use a special bolt, which has teeth under its flange head; a regular bolt won't dig into the metal as well and concentrates its force in a smaller area around the hole. A large star washer can cure that issue if the wrong type of bolt (with a plain flat surface under its head) has been used.
SternWake said:Glad to hear a new PCM got you mobile again, sorry to hear the hesitation issues remain. Perhaps you can explain better when and where the hesitation happens and describe the conditions of 'hesitation' better.
I sent the link of your ECM photos to my electronic's tech friend about the discolored potting. The link did not work for him, but I downloaded the photo of the burnt looking potting, and uploaded it to photobucket which does not allow as high a resolution when magnified.
But here is his response:
I've learned heaps from this guy, but often his tech speak goes well over my head, like I am told my 'battery speak ' does to others.
Sorry i was busy yesterday when you texted and could not talk.
SternWake said:Glad to hear a new PCM got you mobile again, sorry to hear the hesitation issues remain. Perhaps you can explain better when and where the hesitation happens and describe the conditions of 'hesitation' better.
I sent the link of your ECM photos to my electronic's tech friend about the discolored potting. The link did not work for him, but I downloaded the photo of the burnt looking potting, and uploaded it to photobucket which does not allow as high a resolution when magnified.
But here is his response:
I've learned heaps from this guy, but often his tech speak goes well over my head, like I am told my 'battery speak ' does to others.
Sorry i was busy yesterday when you texted and could not talk.
SternWake said:Good to hear indeed. I was wondering what happened.
Thanks for update.
Those with Dodge vans from 88 to 2003 really need to be aware of this possible issue.
Too often it is the last thing addressed when it should be the first, or even better, addressed before it can become an issue.
Take the weight of the wire bundles off the computer connectors, and make sure the electrical contacts within ECM connectors are not oxidized, and that the wires where they enter the connectors have not been backprobed, compromising the wire insulation.
I'd have saved many a headache, and have launched less tools into low earth orbit followed by a fury of curses, if I knew then what I know now.
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