Using a 120 vac Dorm Fridge

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Modifying the dorm fridge wiring is certainly an option, and many people have done this in the past. 

But I like to keep things easy, plug and play as they say, where you can maintain the warranty on both units, and with the right inverter that has an automatic standby mode, the power savings (derived from the inverter) are comparable.
 
GntlStone said:
If you buy it at Costco definitely get the extended warranty, then replacement will cost nothing for approx 3-5 years. Many other places also.


I usually buy anything electric or over $100 at Costco. I had several GPS units that died after the normal 90 day return window and I was so glad I bought them there. No hassle returns.

I ended up getting one at Best Buy, it was the perfect size, and left room for padding. It also didn’t have a freezer. I’ve never liked dorm fridges with that little freezer compartment. I’ve had two with a separate freezer, but they were about 3-5” too tall. Also, unlike most models, it didn’t have that soda can dispenser on the door. It has semicircular holders that can work for condiments. The door won’t close with the bottles, but most condiments should be shorter than a soda can. It’s only been on since Monday, about to go see how it’s doing.

587de6cd8774b98becf08aa58eb14caf.jpg



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That above picture brings up another point. Look at all that wasted space inside. With a chest you can pretty much pack it full. If you tried to do that with an upright every time you opened the door stuff would fall out. Highdesertranger
 
XERTYX said:
  The room where the fridge is isn't climate controlled and in the winter it does seem to not work as well. 

I have the same problem at my deer lease cabin with a dorm size  combo unit. I have it chalked off to the freezer is set on a temperature and cool air settles downward into the refrigerator section, this is all designed  with a ratio based on 50 to 90 degree typical operating range. The cool air in the refrigerator is eventually lost to the room because of design range delta T . (R-factor and insulation factor are in play here). When you have a constant temperature set on the freezer and the ambient temperature drops to 45 deg F or below, less heat is being transferred into your fridge compartment and it eventually freezes inside breaking eggs and soda cans, etc. Does it every time . One might say why doesn't the thermostat stop that, well , the freezer has a thermostat in mine, not the refrigerator section has no thermostat, it has some little duct opening called A.B.C and D for air flow.
 
highdesertranger said:
That above picture brings up another point. Look at all that wasted space inside. With a chest you can pretty much pack it full. If you tried to do that with an upright every time you opened the door stuff would fall out. Highdesertranger


Do you mean by design or how I have it? I only have drinks now because I wanted to test with items that wouldn’t spoil. I also figured it would be nice to have some drinks while I work and organize the van. I’m in a house now.

I’ll say one thing I realized I don’t like is the bottom door shelf. It’s deeper than expected. Seems designed for half gallon cartons. Smaller things, like the soda bottles or quarts will slip through.

I also have an acrylic bin in there to keep smaller things from shifting. A bottom drawer would have been nice, but I can get dollar store bins.

Most of my food storage bins are square, so I’m hoping a little container Tetris will help on the road.

ETA: I get your meaning. There’s just nowhere for a chest in my van without some construction that I’m not able to do myself.

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I wasn't talking about yours per se, but the picture you posted gives a perfect example. Highdesertranger
 
highdesertranger said:
I wasn't talking about yours per se, but the picture you posted gives a perfect example. Highdesertranger


Gotcha. I definitely wracked my brain trying to figure out a way to fit a chest fridge, but with sturdy cabinets and straight aisle down the middle, there just isn’t a space where I wouldn’t have to move it constantly, except the tub. Also, no 12V ports.

I measured the cabinet openings this week. One thought was removing the water tank and using jerry cans, which would be easier to fill in a city. There’s a false door front where the water then is, so it would be perfect. I think the cabinet is only 23” deep.


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Sub2, if that unit uses a skin condenser, make sure you leave space and some airflow around the cabinet for heat to dissipate. 

If not a skin condenser type, it will probably have coils on the back, or underneath near the compressor, so that area needs to have ventilation.
 
Thanks for the tip. It has coils in back, which line up with the old vent for the propane fridge.

Of course, that means there may be failure or running overtime in high temps. It was 40-50s the first day or so, then low-70s. It gets up to 115 in the summer where I live. I’ll probably aim to be in the forest/mountains then.


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Thanks for all the advice, think I will go with a 12v fridge.
Thanks again.
 
XERTYX said:
Touché, but I can tell you where to get a reliable 0.7 cu ft 12v upright fridge for under $200

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075R1LH8D
Looked at the reviews, mostly positive for the Alpicool 12v fridge. As for location I have heard of locating it between the seats or under the bed (requires rolliing it out to access it). More common for fulltime dwellers is the 60 quart size which is about $350 at the above amazon link. 

Dimensions for the 60 quart alpicool are 21 1/2 high, 14 1/2 wide, 28 1/2 deep in inches, a little taller and deeper than a bin.

Have all the 12v fridge prices dropped or just alpicool?

-crofter
 
From what I have noticed the prices have not dropped across the board but several Chinese knock offs have appeared. Alpicool being one of them.

However most of the well known established brands do go on sale from time to time. there is also the used market, I got one of my Engels lightly used for less than half the price of a new one.

Highdesertranger
 
Well I finally jumped in for a 12v fridge/ freezer. I will build a frame around it and put an insulated lid on top. That way I will have extra insulation and be able to sit on it. Also keep it from moving when I am driving.

I will keep the yeti for extra ice chest.
-crofter
 
Crafter - I know you know this but I’m just gonna remind you whatever you build around it make sure to leave room for air movement at the proper spaces. I love my 12 V ice co It is almost unbelievable how little power it uses and how quiet it runs.
 
Hello All,
I have this same exact fridge in my shuttle conversion. At first thought I wondered how it would do and also watched videos about how it would/wouldnt work. Then the manual which clearly states NOT to do what I was about to do....
. :-/

My setup: Same fridge, Deep cycle marine battery which I charge via a battery charger, 2000 watt inverter generator. 
My generator is quiet and runs 12 hrs per day every day. I just plug the fridge into the 110 during the day/evening. When I go to be I shut off the generator and run the fridge with a 650 watt inverter on the deep cycle battery.
When I a traveling long distance I run the fridge on a battery connected to the vehicles alternator hooked to an inverter. 
Have been using this setup since Nov 24, 2020 and have had no issues yet.

My reasoning: I started with a cooler which I had to buy ice for, up to $5 per day not counting the time and gas going to town. Fridge cost at home depot was $199. I already had the batteries, inverter, and generator which I already used daily. So, If I got more than 40 days out of a fridge I am $$ ahead on just ice alone. Granted, I started during the summer in Florida where I was using a lot of ice. 

I can say for sure it will work. What I cannot say is for how long but I am $$ ahead already, not to mention that I no longer have to dig thru a cooler. AND I CAN HAVE ICE CREAM!!!  :D
Good Luck
God Bless
 
nature lover said:
Crafter - I know you know this but I’m just gonna remind you whatever you build around it make sure to leave room for air movement at the proper spaces....
Alpicool 60T is here for test run. I will use top and bottom styrefoam packing as padding and build an insulating box out of polyiso XPS. That will be permanently mounted in the van, in the spot previously occupied by the chair. 
-crofter
 
crofter said:
Alpicool 60T is here for test run.

Will be interested to see what you think. I was ready to buy an Alpi C50 but having a freezer partion might be worth the extra $50.
 
I'm looking forward to my Whynter arriving. I'm pretty much done now collecting everything to sustain long term camping. Honestly, could have done without the fridge, I'm used to not having one, but something tells me to just bite the bullet on it. I really think that getting everything you think you'll need in the future when you can now is a good idea... The outlook going forward is kind of... Murky...
 
No kidding. I have a lot of dry foods in my van already. Now that I have the fridge, I’ll stock butter and other basic perishables.

With Covid, this winter storm, etc., I’m more of a mind to stick up, prep, and go off on my own.


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