Switch controller leads between batteries?

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wayne49 said:
What happens if the fuse/breaker between the controller and the battery bank blows/trips?
The solar circuit is still connected.
     Battery shorts, fuse blows and solar fries your controller = cost < $300
     Battery shorts, no fuse, and van burns = >> $300

They don't sell protective equipment that opens the solar side when the battery bank is disconnected.
     its called a power relay, cost ~$20 + AH to keep it closed

They tell you to fuse/break the two sides independently without regard for the resulting situation.
There's a "disconnect" there.
    You're asking for a fail-safe system to protect a low cost part.
    Most people just want protection from their house/van/belongings going up in flames.

It would be easy to wire up a relay on the solar side, I just don't think there is enough benefit for the cost in amp-hours.
 
Another data point is from a Renogy Rover MPPT.
Hook a Rover to the panels without a battery and the Rover display advises that is looking for the battery bank. That's all.
 
" Battery shorts, fuse blows and solar fries your controller = cost < $300
Battery shorts, no fuse, and van burns = >> $300"

Nothing in my post advocated having "no fuse" between battery and solar and battery and load.

Hysterical over reaction.

The issue is not the controller, the issue is whether the panels will self destruct with no load in direct sunlight.

READ THIS, IF YOU READ NOTHING ELSE:
The one very valid safety point about covering an array before working on a solar power setup, is to stop all electrical activity before touching the electrical system. De-energize for Personal Safety. Like disconnecting the negative cable on a vehicle. Tripping a breaker on an AC panel.
 
wayne49 said:
The issue is not the controller, the issue is whether the panels will self destruct with no load in direct sunlight.

that is a non issue or every panel made would be shipped in a light proof container

what do you think is going on with the panel once the batteries are full and the charge controller is no longer sending juice to the batteries

panels are just fine open circuit in full sun, they even have a "spec" for that. it is VOC ( volts open circuit ) at STC (standard test conditions)
 
wayne49 said:
Another data point is from a Renogy Rover MPPT.
Hook a Rover to the panels without a battery and the Rover display advises that is looking for the battery bank. That's all.
Connecting the Rover to a panel with no battery is different from disconnecting the battery with 10 amps flowing through the controller.
 
Wayne. Panels will not self destruct. They can be in the sun when disconnected or even when shorted +/- together. I find the overall thread to be what happens to a controller when connected to panels without being connected to battery. My TriStar 45 amp doesn't do anything. I can disconnect the battery at high noon, when it is reconnected everything goes on as before. That is only my experience, yours will be different. I recommend a switch to disconnect the panels. I now have a double pole single throw battery switch.
 
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