Stealth Suburban

[offroad]

Well after looking for a van am finding that they are very hard to come by.  So am thinking of a new shopping path.

Looking at doing what this guy did to his suburban.  This is for part time use.  Would also be able to tow a utility trailer.  Or use a tent.  Only go inside the suburban when the weather is bad.  In the diesel version it can get 20mpg, and was also thinking of experimenting with WVO too.

 

[highdesertranger]

I do love burbs. however I would much prefer a pre 91. strait axle 4x4. hint on the wvo if you get a 6.2 or 6.5 diesel you can install a ip out of a hummer or military chevy. these have harden internals so can handle alternative fuels much better than other diesels. highdesertranger

 

[offroad]

What is IP? Injector?

 

[LowTech]

Injector Pump

Waste fuels are often thicker and can brake wimpier IP's, burn out electrical one, etc.

 

[offroad]

Injector Pump

Waste fuels are often thicker and can brake wimpier IP's, burn out electrical one, etc.

read about someone having trouble with fuel pump that was using diesel WVO and switching back and forth. Something about the pump kept failing. They had to go to an electric fuel pump that could handle WVO (I think). Is that likely true on an diesel using WVO?

 

[offroad]

So I guess this is an issue when planning to use WVO (see below quote). So I have to find a so called third market source for WVO that can be used personally without getting into trouble with any over aggressive agency.

"Although biodiesel can be made from vegetable oil, its finished properties are very different. Raw vegetable oil cannot meet biodiesel fuel specifications, it is not registered with the EPA, and it is not a legal motor fuel. In the biodiesel manufacturing process glycerol is removed and a new injector-friendly mono-alkyl ester is created. This must comply with strict industry specifications (ASTM D6751) in order to ensure proper performance. Biodiesel that meets ASTM D6751 and is legally registered with the Environmental Protection Agency is a legal motor fuel for sale and distribution."

 

[offroad]

after looking at the price of diesel versus gasoline on average its costs $0.25 per gallon more, but gets 4MPG better. That translates to $100 saved for every 1000 miles driven at todays gas prices (a year ago you would have saved $150 for every 1000 miles driven due to fuel prices).

Then you factor in repair costs, a diesel costs more to repair. Parts-labor etc. But they last twice as long. 300,000 miles before an engine needs replacement on gasoline if you are lucky. 600,000 miles on diesel if you are lucky.

Guess it comes down to this for Diesel:

1) if you can source your own parts, and do many of your own repairs, and are not too old where you risk injury while repairing. Diesel is your choice. 600,000 miles longevity, to a million miles, is a pretty good return before a rebuild.
2) if you can find a low cost WVO (waste vegetable oil) supplier to save you on fuel cost then Diesel is the way to go.

Gasoline:

1) If you need repairs by anyone anywhere get a gasoline engine. It might not last as long, but it will be much less costly to replace ($7000 installed for a gasoline engine is not a bad expense). 300,000 miles is the limit on gasoline engines, and many only last 200,000 miles.
2) Your MPG will be less, but saving $100 over 1000 miles distance is not a lot of savings. That's $2000 savings on a 20,000 mile year is very helpful to those on a locked budget; and gasoline costs that much more.

 

[karl]

I prefer waste motor oil (WMO) to waste veggie oil (WVO) for ease of gathering and refining. Have used it for years in my tractors , trucks, forklifts, excavators and gensets with non of the seasonal or waste disposal issues of WVO.
Refined(filtered) WMO can cost pennies per gallon.
I do not know what legal issues may arise from on road use of "black" fuel, or auto transmission fluid(the easiest to refine).

I really like diesels for a number of reasons- but they can fail, in spite of all the "million mile" rumours, and can be big$$$$ to repair.

Even with my experience with diesel and alternative fuel, when it came time to replace the engine in Thirsty(step van), I chose another gas engine, mainly because a major break down miles from my familiar territory can be addressed by a far greater number of mechanics and an engine can be completely replaced for 1/2 the cost of a diesel....and by most anyone who can turn a wrench.
If my rig was any heavier and/or consistently towed a trailer I might reconsider diesel, but that would require a much larger emergency fund.

 

[offroad]

Nevermind on WVO!!! OMG it can cause this to happen. Not worth the risk over time. Am speculating that it could turn a 600,000 mile engine into a 50,000 engine depending on the original design of the engine (yes I am likely being too much of an anxiety freak. Lol). Look at the pictures below, and be scared enough to avoid WVO. Yes I know its a small VW engine that is not as strong as a truck engine, but still do not want to see this happening in my truck engine in any context (whatever I buy).

I would not be refining WVO myself. My goal was to just be cheap and do a 20% mix with diesel. Am not even going to risk that

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=186108

 

[offroad]

Buying filtered to 10 micron WVO costs $2 a gallon. Not much of a savings really off the $2.85 cost of diesel at the pump.

Also reading that Diesel engine repairs cost twice as much as gasoline engine repairs. So that $7000 engine swap could be a $14000 engine swap. Just wow!!! (Speculative).

 

[LowTech]

Ditto what Karl said. I prefer WMO and ATF also, much closer to being fuel for a diesel than Veg. I run triple filters, 20 - 10 - 5microns, that takes it smaller than the 3 filters on the truck. So for I've saved enough this way that I can buy anther motor (prob two) and still have cash left over.
For real "oil burning" info I'd go to a forum called Oilburners.net(I think net). There's some real experience there.

Also, using a commonly available Diesel engine makes repair and parts much easier and less costly.

 

[akrvbob]

The inner core of the engine will go those very high miles, but everything else around the core will fail at just about the same rate and it will cost MUCH, much more to repair/replace.

They also add a LOT more weight to the front end of a light truck/SUV platform, my guess is that translates to more front end wear and tear.

They are also much harder on light truck/SUV transmissions. You should plan on a tranny rebuild much sooner than a gas engine and it will cost much more to beef it enough to handle the torque of the diesel.

Bob

 

[highdesertranger]

yeah the wvo is hyped up by people making money off it. I was giving the advice for the military ip because they can handle fuel contamination better. just for everybody's info here in kalifornia diesel has been cheaper than gas for the last 2 years. highdesertranger

 

[highdesertranger]

well I tied to write a rebuttal to bob's post but it didn't post.
1. a gm 6.2,6.5 uses the same accessories as a gasser. no price difference.
2. a 6.2,6.5 weighs appox. 60 lbs more than a big block(454/7.4) not a big difference.
3. run a manual trans. autos are weak no mater what they are behind. my 2 cents.
highdesertranger

 

[Bdog1]

Really diesels are in two different groups these days. The early mechanical models and late model electronic control models.

The electronics are expensive and complex to fix, but reward you with good efficiency, until the last couple of model years, when the mileage drops. The old mechanicals are dumb as rocks, cheap to get parts for and run forever.

A mechanical pump costs less than the price of an electronic injector in most cases.

 

[offroad]

Looking at a 2006 suburban with gasoline engine and 175k miles on it. Hope the guy will drive it over to my mechanic one town away. -- else I will walk away from the deal. Just not worth the risk. It's flashing engine warning light code constantly, but owner mechanics says it's fine. Will see.

 

[highdesertranger]

well if the warning light is on, something is wrong. highdesertranger

 

[Almost There]

well if the warning light is on,  something is wrong.  highdesertranger

Well, you'd think so wouldn't you.

I had the check engine light come on in the mini van. Had the code read. The gas tank cap wasn't sealing correctly. Take if off, put it on again, turn off code, drive the van.

Another time it came on the code said it was for a 'minor air leak' on something or other. We tested everything we could find, couldn't find a leak. Reset the light. I drove it for another 2 years with excellent gas mileage, full power, not a thing we could find wrong, the light would come on and stay on for maybe a couple of months, go off and stay good for a month, act up again for another month, repeat, repeat, repeat. I learned to ignore the darn light!

By the time I got rid of that van the dash looked like Xmas tree....

That check engine light is used for everything - it might be stupid minor or it might be something that needs repair!

 

[masterplumber]

Just do like Penny in The Big Bang Theory - put black tape over it and call it good!

 

[offroad]

I did not buy it.