starting system/house system - thinking about connecting them

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anm said:
The problem with this is that I don't want to have it on whenever the van is running, just when there's an emergency and I need it on.

I meant run one wire from the switch to the fan circuit or some other only-on connection and the other to the solenoid. That way if the switch is off it will never see 12v. If it's on it will only see 12v if the engine is running. Same and simple - only thing you lose is jump starting but like I said you could rig something in the field if that comes up, or use a separate switch.
 
If a suddenly dead chassis battery is a concern, how about putting in a secondary starting battery? A simple manual switch to go to it if needed. A simple isolation unit to let it charge from the alternator like the primary battery.
 
45975999223384b7675231ce4546c953.jpg


The only power this needs is "brain power"! Lol
 
Bdog1 said:
45975999223384b7675231ce4546c953.jpg


The only power this needs is "brain power"! Lol
There's a lot to be said for that, no battery power consumed, just a cheeseburger and a beer occasionally...


Bdog1 said:
45975999223384b7675231ce4546c953.jpg


The only power this needs is "brain power"! Lol
The more I think about it, the more appealing it is...
 
quick question on a set up like this what size fuse is needed on the wire
from the solenoid or acr to the house battery and should there be two fuses in that line since the wire is say 10 feet long and hot from either side I'm assuming it needs two fuses correct?
 
I use 3 of these:
https://www.bluesea.com/products/6007/m-Series_Mini_Selector_Battery_Switch_-_Red

The first one is for my ignition, All stock systems.

The second one is for all my house loads

The third one is for my Solar.

SO I can choose exactly where current comes from, and goes to any source , either battery.

Just do not turn the switch to OFF with the engine running.

The large studs on these can hold many ring terminals. Helpful for distributing power, like to Fuse Block, inverter, 120Vac charging source, Solar controller, ext.

Use fat cables. 4 awg minimum. Preferably 2awg or thicker as all starter current passes through switch each and every time


If you have 2 inches of room above the batttery or behind alternator(+) :

http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syst..._sim_sg_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0C1EQNEKMZ91JMA4XAQG

You fuse to protect the wire. Look up the maximum ampacity for the gauge wire/cable you are fusing

yes any battery wiring should be fused on both ends as close to the battery as possible.

Keep in mine few automobiles come with catastrophic fuses on the starter circuit.

 
the kit i bought came with 6awg wire so that is what I'm using at the moment i have an 95 gmc van with a 105 amp alternator i have a fuse holder that came with a 40 amp and 80 amp fuse i was going to use the 80amp fuse just was not sure if it was to much.


just found this chart and it looks like 80 is the maximum recommended so i'll use it since i have it
thanks again for the info SternWake, and sorry to the O.P for the thread hijack


American Wire Gauge Recommended
Maximum Fuse Size
00 awg 400 amps
0 awg 325 amps
1 awg 250 amps
2 awg 200 amps
4 awg 125 amps
6 awg 80 amps
8 awg 50 amps
10 awg 30 amps
12 awg 20 amps
14 awg 15 amps
16 awg 7.5 amps
 
I looked at a system today. The house battery and starter battery were both under hood. A two position switch on the dash connected the key start to one or the other two ford starter solenoids from a junk yard. Both solenoids went to the starter. The feed side of each solenoid went to a separate battery. Flipping the switch allowed one or the other battery to start the engine. The charging system was separate. This one just charged the pair of batteries as one. There would be better ways to charge.
 
what I didn't see mentioned in this thread is you really don't have to use the second battery to deliver starting current. you can use it just to bring the starting battery up to acceptable starting voltages. in other words you can pass a lower current though smaller wire for a longer time period to start your vehicle. so granted you would not be able to flip a switch and go(no fast get aways). I know it works I have done it so it is an option. for me I would just carry jumper cables, we all need jumper cables. even with top of the line jumper cables you still need to let it sit for a few minutes sometimes. highdesertranger
 

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