Sportsman 800w on sale again

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Good spot guys. Might be useful for van dwellers since it's so small.
 
I have the 800 watt version, (700 continuous). So far it has worked well for me.
The 1,000 watt version should run a 40 amp battery charger that I have, so I might go for it, (charger needed 725 watts continuous, so the 800 would shut down on a safety).
 
Thanks for the heads up. I'm ready to order one of these but I'm hoping it will power a Meanwell rsp-500-15. If the Meanwell is truly 500 watts it should be okay. But in searching I've read Sternwake say it will do 45 amps at 14.8 volts, getting up toward 700 watts? That's getting close to the Sportsman's 800 watts.

The Sportsman teamed up with the Meanwell would be a decent price cloudy day battery charging solution, if they'll work together.
 
I can tell you that when I was breaking mine in that it was able to hold a 600 watt heater at 5280 ft. That's pretty good considering a few hours break in a altitude. The MeanWell I bought to pair with mine was only 30 amps.
 
bonvanroulez said:
 But in searching I've read Sternwake say it will do 45 amps at 14.8 volts, getting up toward 700 watts? That's getting close to the Sportsman's 800 watts.


My  wattmeter will hit just over 600 watts total output, and in general the max amperage is 40 amps at ANY chosen voltage between 13.12 and 19.23v, not 45amps.

My wattmeter on my Meanwell output will pretty much max out at 40.97 amps at any voltage, and my DC clampmeter, before the most recent set of AAA lithium  duracell batteries, stopped at 40 amp almost on the dot.  The new AAA's claim the Meanwell is doing 43.5 though the wattmeter still says 40.97amps.  I am disappointed that the Clampmeter's readings changed so drastically with the AAA lithium batteries, and this could be due to their slightly higher voltage and perhaps retaining much more voltage under the load the clampmeter presents to them.  A guess. i know not.   I could test with regular AAA's, but .....
When I first got it I tried to use NiMh AAA's and accuracy was pitiful on voltage and amperage.

I have not put my clampmeter over the AC wiring to see just how much AC input it requires.  I should borrow my friends Kill a watt for some data on that, but he can't find it and I'm too cheap to get my own.

The thing with these adjustable voltage power supplies, is that they are manual chargers, requiring human input and observation and control.  

IF the powersupply can stall the generator when set to 14.8v and hooked to a depleted battery, well the  likely solution is starting the powersupply at a much lower voltage, and raising the voltage until the generator struggles.  One can control amperage by the voltage.  The rsp-500-15 minimum with the stock pot  (973 ohm) was 13.23 volts. My bourns 10 turn pot OHmed out at 1027 and minimum voltage dropped to 13.12.  It is possible 13.23 or .12 could still overpower the generator on initial hook up to a depleted battery.  Only way to know is to try it.

The 36 amp Megawatt voltage can be turned lower than 13.12 thus lowering the voltage delta and thus the amp flow when first hooked to a depleted battery.

http://www.12voltpowersupplies.us/

But the voltage dial which comes with the meanwell/megawatt requires a jeweler's screwdriver and a steady hand to adjust precisely, and is not rated for many cycles, 25 to 50.  it will not take kindly to repeated and often voltage changes and when worn might have voltage kind of YOYO in a certain range or just not be controllable at all depending on how it wears.

A powersupply without the modified voltage potentiometer should really be set once to 14.8v, or similar, and adjusted as little as possible for fear of wearing out the provided mini potentiometer.

Modification of the potentiometer required me to disassemble the meanwell, lifting the circuit board from the casing, which is used as a heatsink.  The transistors are bolted to the casing, and have a thermal pad and grease to help transfer heat, but also keep the transistors electrically isolated from the casing.

It is easy to disassemble, and soldering in the wires is not all that hard, but it was stressful as I was pretty new to soldering on circuit boards and soldering in general.

Perhaps the stock pot legs could be snipped without disassembly and wires soldered to a better potentiometer, but access is limited and I feel more soldering skill would be required to pull this off, as well as some nippers which could get in there and cut the pot legs close to the underside of the pot, leaving enough of the leg to solder wires to.

This should not be difficult for an experienced electronics repair tech.  I most certainly did not and do not qualify, but I pulled it off, and could do it faster and cleaner today haveing had a lot more experience since september of 2014 when i did pull it off.

The MEanwell is PFC, powerfactor corrected, meaning it uses less ACwattage to make the DC output wattage, The Megawatt is not, so if one is at the limit of a generator, a PFC charger should support higher output amps into battery before stalling the generator.

Really this is a lot of supposition and theory, and the proof is in the pudding by someone actually doing it, not someone who has just read about it or 'thinks' it should work according to what they think they know.

I have never run a charger from a generator, and thus have no experience in this specific matter, so do not take my suppositions and theories as fact, please.  

More data is required, and that requires actual testing by someone with  the knowledge and measurement tools and experience, and common sense, and the Desire, to do so.
 
Sternwake

If you didn't see it, I put together my Meanwell but didn't use it with the generator. I used my trailers systems to provide shore power to a class C with a basic converter and a poorly charged battery. I used the 45a converter to bring the battery up to 13.6v, then took it up to 14.4v with the Meanwell for 3 hours and 15v for the rest of the day. The battery rested at 12.6v the next morning after being down to 11.2v before I started. I would have tried it on the generator but I haven't had gas for it since Yuma.
 
Please explain like I'm 5.

If I buy this generator what is the preferred / best way to utilize for charging house batteries? What other hardware would be required?

I have 2xDuracell 6V golf carts. I also have a Battery Tender brand charger.

This generator also has DC output. Can you just run the DC output to a battery and charge that way?
 
I forget what the DC output is exactly but generally it is very low and would take forever. I use the Meanwell because it is adjustable in it's voltage and can produce enough amps to make a difference.
 
Like ZZZ typed, explain to me slow. With something this small I could use it and another device to charge my batteries if solar wasn't doing it ? That would keep me from having to run the big generator.

Rob
 
Yes, there are any number of devices that could be used with this generator including the converter you bought. Plug the trailers cord into the generator and awayyyyy you go.
 
The D.C. Charger on the Honda 1000 is only good for 8 amps, I doubt this knockoff would be any higher...  just accept the conversion inefficiencies and work with the ac output for your battery charger.
 
Isn't the other reason why the DC port on the generator isn't the best for charging is that there is no controlling it? IE, for an actual good battery charger, there are stages and you can't fry your battery with it because it will go to the float stage... but with the DC port on the generator there is no floating, just flat out charging.
 
I think JiminDenver is referring to the onboard charge controller and just plugging it in to the AC outlet on the generator.

Rob
 
In my case yes at least if I don't let the bank get too far down. My 55 amp converter is a bit big for 800 watts. The 30 amp Meanwell is much better suited to it.
 
Jim, I had not seen that, Apologies.

If the adjustable voltage power supplied are going to be used as battery chargers, they should have 'Constant current limiting' protection when Overloaded. Meaning it will stop itself from burning up but hold its maximum safe output rating

Many power supplies will have Hiccup protections, when overloaded they shut off until the ooverload is removed. Not good for battery charging, well not for depleted batteries anyway.

The other protection method is roll back current limiting, which is self explanatory, but if rated for 36 amps, perhaps rolls back to 28 or 20 or ???

Some of the Super cheap LED power supplies, which look very similar, have NO protections. I owned one such Before my meanwell, and got sick of voltage limiting it to below 36 amps via voltage, then just set it to 14.8v hooked it to a depleted battery and 17 minutes of 38+ amps later the magic smoke genie escaped, and i ordered the Meanwell rps-500-15, and this was the beginning of my enlightening adventures into twisting a dial to change voltage and thus amperage into the battery.
 
:huh: So if I bought on of these could I plug something directly into the generator?  It has a 12v outlet and a 120 outlet  so could I run a fan  or light directly from the generator?  I was hoping that was the case so I could run a fan at the storage units.  Would I need something other than the generator?  Why do things that seem so simple turn into a possible PITA?

Jewellann
 
Jewellann, these powersupplies generally do not come with any of the AC wiring to them, or the DC wiring from them. Chopping up an older 3 wire exension cord is pretty easy, adn the DC output requires only 2 output wires.

If One had a 12vDC fan and no battery, one could use these powersupplies to take 120Vac grid power, or generator power, to make 12vDC, or 15.5vDC or in the case of my MEanwell rsp-500-15, 19.23vDC.

Using them as 12v battery chargers was not their intention when originally designed.

Most RV converters can also do the same thing without a battery in the middle, but a regular battery charger will likely not be able to say power a fridge or a fan, without a battery in between.

My 12v compressor Fridge is DC only. They wanted another 100$ for an AC/DC fridge. One of these powersupplies basically can cover the 3 amps of the fridge when the compressor is running, but also provide 30+ amps for battery charging at the same time.

My meanwell rsp-500-15 will hold any voltage I choose from 13.12 to 19.23v, and supply upto 40 amps DC at those voltages, to maintain that voltage. It cost about a hundred dollars, so It can power my fridge when i have grid power/generator power, AND charge my battery at a high rate an an Ideal voltage for the battery to recharge quickly, or slowly, or simply maintain it at full if it is already fully charged.

Honestly the adjustable voltage power supply as a charger is not really for the electrical newbie as it is not automatic and overcharging is a distinct possibility, but if one wanted to buy 12vDC items for the future, but run them in a stick and brick without a without a battery, they are perfect.

The adjustable voltage power supply as a charger requires a human monitor its output and either lower voltage when it is determined the battery is full, or turn it off, or lower the voltage before the battery is full and charge at a much slower and ultimately safer rate, when time to recharge is not an issue.

If one wants automatic battery charging, the adjustable voltage power supply should not be a consideration
 
SW

The reason I used his converter first was that not only would it bring the Grp 24 battery up to 13.6 faster being 45a vs the 30 amp Meanwell, I also remembered smoking my Megawatt letting it run full out on my bank. Mex is sure having fun with it after turning it into the MegaBorg isn't he, I just do not have his talent with such things.

Jewellann

The generator will run a regular fan or light just fine by simply plugging it in like you would at home.
 
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