solar vs alternator charging

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CosmickGold

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I just watched the new video in which Mariah Alice states that 30 minutes of charging her batteries from the alternator does better than 8 hours of charging from her solar panels. I have gel batteries which due to their slower charge rate, I charge ONLY from my solar panels.  But is there truth to what she said?  I plan to spend a good bit of time in the far Northwest where rainy days are the norm, so I maybe need to change something (like switch to a kind of battery that charges faster, thus able to take advantage of the alternator?)

Maybe someone here can give me a link to a page that answers my electrical questions, so I can get setup the best way for my needs.  Thirty minutes vs 8 hours is a HUGE improvement, not even requiring sunshine. Could what she said be real?
 
Her solar panels must be working very poorly and her batteries must be barely run down. A generator is the only good solution in my opinion unless you are driving anyway for at least 4 hours a day. There are larger alternators that might enable you to charge faster but at what expense and wear and tear on your vehicle and your batteries. Repairing or replacing a generator is much cheaper than repairing or replacing your vehicle. A Prius might be the only exception using an inverter. Batteries are best bulk charged with a generator first thing in the morning and then topped off with solar during the day. If cloudy weather prevents solar from completely charging you batteries at the end of the day then finish charging with the generator. As a note using a small electric heater while running the generator helps dry out the condensation in the interior and your batteries will last much longer if they get fully charged each day.
 
Generaly speaking you CAN NOT charge a lead acid battery in 30 minutes.

Having said that,
I knowing nothing about their solar system. Sounds to me like it's not working, at least not correctly.
also I don't know
how much of a discharge they put on the batteries
how they are determining when/if they are at 100%
what type of batteries they have
how much solar they have

lead acid batteries like/need long charge times to get to 100%. That is why solar works so good.
The North West can pose problems and you need to get your batteries to 100% everyday or their life will be short.

Use the alternator as a supplement but don't rely on it as your only charging system unless you are driving 8 hours EVERDAY.

GEL
AGM
Flooded

are ALL lead acid batteries. They all have different charge profiles.

Highdesertranger
 
It could be true.  A lot depends on the amperage that you get from the alternator vrs your solar panels. 

The charging process is a multi-phase process and the first phase is called the bulk load phase.  It’s when you want to apply the highest amperage.  Later phases can accept a much lower amperage.  Generally you will get a higher amperage from your alternator or a generator than from solar, especially prior to the noon-day sun.  

Something I discovered while in Alaska, that I got my best recharge by running my engine (alternator) when I got up and was making breakfast and getting cleaned up.  Then after 15 to 30 minutes I would turn the engine off and let my solar panels take over for the subsequent phases.  I’m usually at 14+ volts resting (i.e. no output load) by 2:00 pm.  I have 2 100 Amp Hour AGMs and 200 watts solar.  I usually have 12.7+ at sundown and wake up a bit over 12.2 Volts.  My batteries are over 3 years old and holding a charge, so I’m fairly pleased. My largest draw is a 12-gold compressor fridge which runs overnight.  I don’t have any other draw on the batteries at night other than the fridge. 

One caveat- When you charge, the voltage indicators are exaggerated because charging causes excess electrons in the battery posts which have not settled.  You only get the true voltage after letting the batteries remain idle for at least 15 minutes.  What I see in my system is that the voltage will reach about 14.3 after running the engine for 30 minutes, but once I stop, the voltage will generally drop until it is about 13 volts.
 
But HDR is correct. Lead Acid and AGMs need a long charge time. That’s why I start with the alternator and then switch to the solar to finish the charge process. It’s still a full day of charge...
 
Automobile alternators will charge batteries up to 85% full fairly quick but the last 15% needs to trickle charge which takes time. I have used alternators to charge battery banks when it was cloudy or the solar was weak, then let the solar fill the last amount with a trickle charge tru the day.

I love a good solar set up..! it is nice not to have to run cars or generators.
 
I washed my panel recently and I'm seeing some of the best charge rate I have ever seen.
 
I agree with the comments here-- You alternator will deliver a higher charge rate than photovoltaic panels-- I kind of look at it as a bulk charge whereas the panels are giving you a trickle charge- both are important to your battery bank. They work very well together as a hybrid system.

Solar panels are very sensitive to any sort of shading-- It will radically reduce their output. (I did a system install once where the lady was a bird lover and the biggest problem we had was the birds waiting their turn at the feeders would perch on the array and do their business on the panels.-- it reduced her output drastically. ) keep your panels clean!
 
X2 above.
The problem with solar and lead acid batteries is that you need to leave your van out (if the panels are rooftop mounted) in the (hot) sun. Then you get to come back to or be in a hot van, not so good. Out in the woods/BLM maybe you can remote your panels but they can "grow legs" or need to be adjusted hourly 'ish.

Now if the cheapo knockoff Chinese lithium batteries stay down in price (see a previous thread about that), you could get one 100amp lithium battery for an equal price as two 100amp AGM's. You will be able to charge the lithium with a dc to dc charger and skip the solar. Lithium will charge very quickly and have no sulfation issue, so that could be really nice if you drive say an hour a day. If you don't drive daily then maybe it's back to panels. (Just don't idle to recharge lithium you might fry your alternator.)

I don't have either an agm or lithium battery, just reading and reading about them. Every time I think that I have the answer, I change my mind. Typical.
 
If you actually do the math for the panels, lets say 100W panel inputting 12 volts, thats only 8.33 amps. in one full day of sun with one 100W panel you'd get around 45amps. now, if you got two batteries, 100ah each, you can only fill up 1 quarter of your battery bank with juice. depending on the power of your engine/alternator, you could charge much more in a shorter time than that. 2003 dodge sprinter puts out 90Amps. so sure a panel can help, but its definitely not doing a whole lot of work for the price.
 
Lilyschools said:
If you actually do the math for the panels, lets say 100W panel inputting 12 volts, thats only 8.33 amps. in one full day of sun with one 100W panel you'd get around 45amps. now, if you got two batteries, 100ah each, you can only fill up 1 quarter of your battery bank with juice. depending on the power of your engine/alternator, you could charge much more in a shorter time than that. 2003 dodge sprinter puts out 90Amps. so sure a panel can help, but its definitely not doing a whole lot of work for the price.
You may already know these things but I will post them in case other readers haven't heard:

Two things: 1 - panels when flat mounted won't get full amperage, maybe 70 watts per 100 watt panel. Then the charge controller (if PWM) has losses, 20-30% more reduction. Then summer vs winter... So a 100 watt panel might produce 5 amps for 4-5 hours.

2 - Your vehicle alternator, regardless of what it is "rated" for (in the lab when brand new under ideal conditions), will not output even 1/3 that rating to house batteries. With flooded lead acid or even agm charge profiles, they will accept a decent amperage at first then scale down as they fill. The alternator will drop down as well due to it's internal or computer controls, especially if it gets hot. Then there's the whole "smart" alternator issue (appx 2010 and up) which barely even charges the starting battery, much less a house battery.

https://www.redarc.com.au/alternator-vs-fixed-alternator
Begin copied portion of article)
"Fixed voltage alternators are becoming less common on new vehicles as reduced fuel consumption targets and more stringent emissions standards are adopted by manufacturers. A fixed voltage alternator has a high enough voltage to successfully charge a secondary battery in the vehicle to a usable level for leisure or auxiliary use.

 
The smart alternator system allows the vehicle to control the output voltage from the alternator based on vehicle operating conditions to reduce electrical load and in turn mechanical load on the engine by the alternator, this renders it unsuccessful at charging a secondary battery system to a usable level.
[size=small]
For many years the fixed voltage alternator has worked fairly well as a system to recharge secondary battery systems in addition to the vehicle start battery. This has commonly been achieved through systems which simply parallel the start and secondary battery during engine running, and then separate them from each other once the engine is stopped.

[/size]

 

Due to the implementation of smart alternators however, this type of parallel charging is no longer effective for the secondary battery.

 
[size=small]The smart alternator does not consider the secondary batteries state of charge, chemistry type, or location in the vehicle, which are all determining factors for how it functions, being specifically tailored for the vehicle start battery."
(End of copied article"
[/size]
 
mpruet said:
It’s a 12-volt fridge.  I only wish it were a 12-gold fridge...  Silly spell checker...

Amen to that brother!  Spell check can produce unpredictable results for sure.
 
30 minutes of charging her batteries from the alternator does better than 8 hours of charging from her solar panels. I have gel batteries which due to their slower charge rate, I charge ONLY from my solar panels. But is there truth to what she said? I plan to spend a good bit of time in the far Northwest where rainy days are the norm, so I maybe need to change something (like switch to a kind of battery that charges faster, thus able to take advantage of the alternator?)

I'm late to the party and there has been much good input. But it's an interesting question (and specific use case) worth a bit more dissecting.

caveat: charging gel
I agree gel should not get the fast-and-furious alternator treatment, so the 16x faster issue doesn't apply here. For those considering gel for its excellent cycle life specs, I'd limit charging to 0.2C (20A per 100Ah of capacity). This is most easily done from alternator via DC-DC charger. 20A DC-DC are widely available and surprisingly cheap. In this situation we are talking about augmenting solar, not blasting it out of the water with 16x moAr pOweR!!!!.<tm>

Renogy has a 20A for about $120 (~$100 from Amazon warehouses scratch-and-dent pile) and would be a nice addition for folks in the Northwest. I've done some math on that topic here.


16x faster

Let's do some sanity checking on "30 minutes of charging her batteries from the alternator does better than 8 hours of charging from her solar panels" assertion.

There is only so much current a battery will accept, and that is dictated by rated capacity and battery chemistry. Let's use a deeply-cycled 100Ah bank and 200w of solar for our baseline since it's such a common size.
  • Flooded lead acid will accept up to 0.2C (20A per 100Ah of capacity). If the alt were running for 0.5hours that means we are talking about 10Ah (20A x 0.5hrs). That would mean to if alternator charging is 16x the solar is only providing 1.25A, or something like 16w.
  • AGM (of the sort most have here) will accept up to 0.3C (30A). So 15Ah harvest in a half-hour, equivalent to solar harvest of 1.9A (~24w).
  • Lithium can accept 0.5C (50A). So 25Ah, or the solar 8-hr equivalent of 41w.
Think about your battery type/capacity and your own solar harvest observations in amps or watts to see how they stack up against a half-hour of alternator charging.

The 16x claim makes more sense when we talk about much bigger battery banks, like 300Ah+. Plain isolators will pass as much power as the batteries will accept (constrained by the alternator's ability). Scaling the solar (or DC-DC) for the bigger bank would cost considerably more.

Edited to add: based on YT thumbnails she camps in forests quite a bit. Shade can/will clobber solar harvest.

cooperation, not competition

It's not really either/or; alternator charging and solar work spectacularly well together. Each addresses the shortcomings of the other and can decrease overall costs.

  • isolator charging - cheap source of current, especially when bank is deeply discharged. But insufficient voltage (and probably time) to complete Absorption for lead chemistries
  • solar - small installs are cheap sources of long-duration voltage. Insufficient current to meet lead batt charge current minimums, and may not have enough grunt on its own to get the bank fully charged in poor conditions. PWM-based systems in particular strugglen when bank voltage is lowest.
  • DC-DC chargers - tend to deliver higher voltage but lower current than isolator for the money. IMO DC-DC is not always worth the money when solar is present.
As @mpruet noticed, an optimal charging scenario would be

  1. isolator charging when batts are deeply discharged (roughly Bulk stage). This is likely in the morning when the voltage difference between bank and alternator is greatest. You could alternator charge later in the day during Float but it wouldn't do much.
  2. after the alternator blast solar charging takes care of the lower-current, higher-voltage, longer-duration Absorption and Float stages.

Full disclosure: I have a voltage-sensing relay for alternator charging and copious solar. Solar does 95% of the work although the alternator gets to contribute if I'm driving and solar conditions are poor. Even though it doesn't get much use I am 100% satisfied with the low cost, simplicity, and Big Current provided by the VSR.

Thank you for attending my Ted Talk.
 
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I have a 145 Amp alt and 400 watts solar with 300 Amp Lithium batteries, I use a Battery Lithium Battery Isolation Manager to charge the house batteries. I installed that so that I didn't burn up my Alt trying to charge the Lithiums. The Alt will only charge my batteries to about 80% because the Lithiums use a different charge profile. From there the solar will top them off. The Isolator depending on voltage will charge the house batteries for 15 mins on and 20 mins off, and will on solar or shore power will charge the starting battery for 1 hour on and 1 min off. So I don't have to worry about having a dead starting battery. It the very least you would need some type of disconnect to prevent the house batteries from draining the starting batteries.

I had a 12v solenoid in the battery box that would allow the alt to charge the house batteries, and was using either a trickle charger or a solar charger to keep my starting battery topped off. I removed the solenoid when I installed the Isolator in the system.

Also remember the alt in designed to run the engine and all its systems and charge the starting battery, it was never designed to charge a battery bank in the back. The most I have seen my alt putting out to charge the batteries in the back is about 25 amp.


https://www.amazon.com/Battle-Born-...71dae&pd_rd_wg=ahSCT&pd_rd_i=B07DY8S815&psc=1
 
Been using a Renogy DCDC50 since last September to charge two LiFePo4 100AH batteries.
The original plan was to install solar on the roof but panels keep going out of stock, and up in price.
That, and well, I've been doing okay on just alternator charging.
Though I do drive a lot and have a pretty small load on the batteries.
I would advise folks to look into scaling up their alternator if they do this. My model of van came with a 140 amp, but there are 230, 265 and 300 amp alternators available. Which I am going to get soon, since I just got a 3rd battery.

What matters here is amps, not watts or volts.
120 watts of solar is about 10 amps.
Most alternators are kicking out over 100 amps.
So yeah you basically need about 1000 watts of solar to be on par.
This is over generalizing a bit, since 12V solar panels are usually between 16 and 24 volts and the amperage will vary. Many only put out 5 amps but are at 24V. The charge controller nices up that voltage and current so it's more suitable for your battery type.
Either way, yeah alternator charging works fine if properly done.
That is the job of the alternator, charging batteries.
If you put it in parallel it's not really a big hazard to your vehicle.
The tricky part is trying to have 2 different battery setups, and some modern vehicles even have computerized smart alternators.
So you can get funny error messages when the vehicle computer thinks there is a problem with the battery, when you are still pulling amps after it should have been charged.
 
I have 320w of panel, 220 AH of AGM batteries in a GMC van with a smart variable output voltage alternator. In conjunction with my Victron solar gear I use a Victron TR-Smart dc-dc charger when experiencing low or no sunlight. The chargers are available in various 12 to 24 volt configurations with outputs up to 30 amps. These are programmable 3 stage chargers just like a quality solar charger and automatically adjust the output voltage as needed to accommodate the variable voltage coming from the alternator. I have a lower amperage output alternator so use an 18amp version to keep from overheating the alternator. Set to detect when the engine is off so it doesn't draw from the battery when the engine isn't running. Works like a champ.

https://www.victronenergy.com/dc-dc-converters/orion-tr-smart
 
I also use a Victron 30a DC-DC charger for my LiFePo4 bank and it works great. You can program the set on voltage from the starter battery so when the engine is running and the alternator starts putting out voltage, the charger starts automatically charging the house bank. It will charge any type of battery bank up to 100% and float while you drive.
 
smart variable output voltage alternator. In conjunction with my Victron solar gear I use a Victron TR-Smart dc-dc charger

That's an important point for onlookers who are planning for alternator charging. If the vehicle's alternator is "smart" (continuously adjusting voltage) then a DC-DC charger will be required. The DC-DC will make correct output/charging voltage no matter what the smart alt does on the input side.

In comparison, a constant-duty solenoid could actually drain the aux battery when smart alt voltage drops, and a VSR would constantly cycle on/off. Click click click click click!

Smart alts have been relatively rare in the US domestic market but I suspect they will become more common.
 
All this complexity around alternators makes me wonder if there isn't a better solution. Has anybody found a way to do some kind of pto "power take off" device? I saw a blog where someone installed a second alternator just for charging leisure batteries. That was pretty complicated too though. Maybe I can put a rubber belt on the drive shaft.
 
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