solar panels

Van Living Forum

Help Support Van Living Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Roo, you should be able to easily run any refrig on that kind of power...unless your batteries aren't being charged or something?&nbsp; Ive seen youtubes of people running a house freezer thru inverter with just 2 trojan t105 6V<br><br><br>OP:&nbsp; When you say rv battery, do you mean house batteries or the starting battery?&nbsp; You might consider a deep cycle to hook the solar to, starting batteries wont last long under such abuse.
 
ok a read back now and see you are running a 12v fridge.&nbsp; something's not right if you are having difficulties running a 12v fridge.&nbsp; I run 2 engel's off 180 watts of solar and 2 batts.&nbsp;and have no problem.&nbsp; highdesertranger
 
Most absorption fridges have a 12 volt function, and this function is designed to power the fridge when the engine is running, as they draw 8 to 12 amps and have a 100% duty cycle. &nbsp;If the engine is running, no issues, the alternator can provide an additional 12 amps.<br><br>Trying to run an absorption fridge off 12 volts ,without the engine running,.... is not wise.<br><br>Absorption fridges are sometimes called 3 way fridges, or propane fridges. &nbsp;The will work good on propane, and 120 V ac, but perform badly, and be a battery killer on 12vDC.<br><br>Compressor fridges are different. &nbsp;they can run on 12 volts or 120 volts. &nbsp;The ones designed to run on 12 volts are much more efficient than those which are run on 120 volts and then are powered from an inverter. &nbsp;<br><br>The 12 volt compressor fridges are efficient, and a smaller fridge can be powered by 60 watts and a single group 27 indefinitely, unless it is overcast all day every day for 4+ days.<br><br>So saying it is a 12 volt fridge, does not tell us anything, and yes powering a 12 volt absorption fridge on 12 volts, will quickly kill batteries, but a 12v compressor fridge can go days on just a battery, or with solar assist, days weeks months......... <br><br>&nbsp;
 
So an absorption refrigerator is less efficient than a 12v compressor refrigerator? Hmm, I'm glad you mentioned this. I always thought it was the other way around since they install absorption refrigerators in motorhomes. I guess they weren't as concerned with efficiency as I assumed they should be? <img src="/images/boards/smilies/frown.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img"> <br>-Bruce
 
The reason they install absorption fridges in MH's is, IMHO, because of 'inertia' and a pre-existing product infrastructure. Way back when, they didn't have solar, great batteries, and efficient DC fridges, and petroleum was MUCH cheaper. Therefor, it was all absorption fridges. As that changed, the RV industry.. didn't. Now with everyone and their dog having solar on the roof, and super efficient DC fridges, there's really very little reason to have those dinosaur fridges. It's just that they're what was ALWAYS used, so why not keep on using them if people are stupid enuf to buy them?&nbsp; ..Willy.&nbsp;
 
Thanks Willy, I guess that makes sense. I guess greed has a lot to do with it also. <img src="/images/boards/smilies/frown.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img"> <br>-Bruce
 
&nbsp;I've met many an RV'er who isn't aware of any other option for their rig 'cept those atrocious Peltier junction jobbies you see peddled at Wally World 'n such. I show them what I've got and it's 'OMG!! Where can i get me one of them?'. Another thing to consider is that the 12v compressor fridges are relatively easy to service/fix, the absorption ones.. not so much so (playing with propane gas here kiddies, and she go 'BOOM!'). So, the aftermarket parts &amp; specialty services are that much pricier; follow the money. ..Willy.
 
Also it seems most RV fires are because of the propane frigs. After they get some time on them they can leak and cause a fire.

Compressor frig is the way to go IMHO.
 
something i just found out about. i had no idea that my old Onan generator has it own 2 stage battery charge built into the generator its self. it was designed to replace the DC volts used to start from the house batteries. seems it has a control board that activates a solenoid on the side of in front of electric fuel pump. starts at 10 volt charge then drops down to 1.2 or so. that all fine and dandy untill you install solar panels. i put in a switch that disconnects the converter charger but that does not disable the generator charger if there is a diode or something else on the control board mounted on te generator. so what happeneds&nbsp; is, the generator will keep on charging no matter what, until the house batteries are over charged, and that sends an error code to solar charge controller as - high voltage and shuts down the solar panel&nbsp; and solar charge controller. <br><br>John
 
john I think you mean a 10 amp charge then drops down to 1.2 amps.&nbsp; I would imagine that the gen will stop charging when the batteries are full, &nbsp;same for the converter/charger&nbsp;but at 1.2 amps its only a battery maintainer not a charger little chance of overcharge or over voltage.&nbsp; you could always install a disconnect switch like you did with your converter.&nbsp;&nbsp; highdesertranger
 
hi highdesert: yes, that what i meant to say, amps not volts<img src="/images/boards/smilies/rolleyes.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img">.but in my case gen starts with a 10 AMP charger and never steps down to 1.2.&nbsp; and yes you are correct in saying i could just put in a dc/switch until i can find a board for it. the gauges on the dash board of this old rig are not giving me the right reading, as they never said the house batteries were over charging. it was always around 14.0 even after running generator all day. i trace wires back to dash board gauge all were 12 gauge hard wire. but it is about 15ft. from battery bank, thru a couple looms here and there, and then an old wore out double pole, double throw&nbsp; switch to measure both house batteries on one side and measure start battery on the other side.&nbsp; so how can that be a true reading of battery charge state at the dash board gauge. ya know what i mean?? so when i put the solar on, now i get a true measure of house bat charge state. only 5 ft and #8 gauge stranded wire. how i noticed something was not right is that the house batteries had a 16.7 volt charge, that shut down solar charger with an error code of high voltage. so that when i learned that the generator had it own charging sytem, and one cell phone pluged into 12 port gone! i guess we live and learn yes??<br><br>John
 
Top