Bohemian scout
Well-known member
So, if I were able to switch batteries (not saying I can for sure, but) what battery would I need to use with 200 Watts solar? My battery is inside my van not vented so that's why I went with AGM.
Solar or not?
- Thread starter Bohemian scout
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Whichever battery you end up with you will still need a solar panel to replace the energy that the fridge is using, unless you want to keep idling the engine to recharge the battery.
Bohemian scout
Well-known member
tx2sturgis said:
Yes but do I need a different battery? Will the one I have work with 200 watt solar? I would love to keep this battery and put money towards solar.
Bohemian scout said:
I'm sure it's confusing. Yes, we covered this earlier in the thread.
You can hook up a solar array and controller to the battery you have.
That battery won't last nearly as long as a proper deep cycling one (PDC).
But you may as well get your money's worth and use it until it dies. If you treat it well may be a year, or even longer.
When the time comes, the best PDC battery value by far is Duracell (actually Deka/East Penn) GC-2 from BatteriesPlus or Sam's Club deep cycle golf cart batteries, 2x6V, 200+AH @ around $180
If you treat *that* well it may last 5-8 years.
But you may as well get your money's worth and use it until it dies. If you treat it well may be a year, or even longer.
When the time comes, the best PDC battery value by far is Duracell (actually Deka/East Penn) GC-2 from BatteriesPlus or Sam's Club deep cycle golf cart batteries, 2x6V, 200+AH @ around $180
If you treat *that* well it may last 5-8 years.
Bohemian scout
Well-known member
John61CT said:
But do those batteries need ventilation?
Bohemian scout
Well-known member
tx2sturgis said:
Ok great, now to start researching solar and accessories and if I should wait to purchase until RTR.
If you close them up in a box, yes.Bohemian scout said:
Or if you get bothered so much that cracking a window isn't enough.
Good quality PDC AGM are a *lot* more expensive, don't last as long, SoC can't be accurately determined with a cheap hydrometer, take more expensive chargers and you have to be more careful to charge them properly, much less robust.
The best dollar for performance is FLA - Flooded Lead Acid batteries .
Hopefully we can use standard battery terms . PDC , SoC are brand not battery terminology .
Unless you can return / exchange what you bought , use it .
As for the last few questions , different battery and venting .
A couple of things here , boxing to capture off-gassing & vent outside , but also using hydro-caps [ have been a brand ] but more than one manufacture , these collect the off-gassing and recombine and return liquid to battery , reducing the need to maintain electrolyte as often - they replace the original cell caps .
That brings up another suggestion , do not use sealed batteries .
As an example , my last battery system used 4 Trojan L16's , 2 pair in series for 12v and those in parallel for more capacity .
Then to a large quality inverter , this ran my RV with aircondtioning , furnace , color tv etc. for over 13 yrs. and charged only with solar on the roof , and the system never discharged more than 40% , even with AC in summer .
Hopefully we can use standard battery terms . PDC , SoC are brand not battery terminology .
Unless you can return / exchange what you bought , use it .
As for the last few questions , different battery and venting .
A couple of things here , boxing to capture off-gassing & vent outside , but also using hydro-caps [ have been a brand ] but more than one manufacture , these collect the off-gassing and recombine and return liquid to battery , reducing the need to maintain electrolyte as often - they replace the original cell caps .
That brings up another suggestion , do not use sealed batteries .
As an example , my last battery system used 4 Trojan L16's , 2 pair in series for 12v and those in parallel for more capacity .
Then to a large quality inverter , this ran my RV with aircondtioning , furnace , color tv etc. for over 13 yrs. and charged only with solar on the roof , and the system never discharged more than 40% , even with AC in summer .
STERNWAKE!
HumbleBeginnings
Well-known member
I'm curious if you went for a 6 hour drive would that charge your battery fully? It would be a large time and fuel investment just as a test but if you have a trip coming up it would be a good opportunity to find out how well your alternator is charging your battery.
Another option is charging from shore power when at home to make sure you get a full charge. If your trips are only 5 days you can always start off from a full shore charge.
Another option is charging from shore power when at home to make sure you get a full charge. If your trips are only 5 days you can always start off from a full shore charge.
Bohemian scout
Well-known member
HumbleBeginnings said:
Well.....I do need a trip but (sad now) nothing planned. So, how to fully charge my battery? I don’t have a battery charger, should I buy one? If so, what kind? I know they have some that also have a small compressor right? Would that air up a van tire? I can probably borrow a house plug in type. (24 volt? 110? 220? Sorry not sure) How long would it take? I ask that because my van is parked on the street, can’t just plug it in however I could go to a friends house.
6 hours is a good start.
Depends on alt setup, most don't regulate well enough.
Note the last 15-20% will be at very low amps, maybe 3-4 hours. Silly to burn fuel for that, only shore power or solar are suitable.
Also depends on your SoC at the beginning.
That means State of Charge, 0% to 100% full, DoD, depth of discharge is the opposite.
PDC = proper deep cycling as I defined above.
Depends on alt setup, most don't regulate well enough.
Note the last 15-20% will be at very low amps, maybe 3-4 hours. Silly to burn fuel for that, only shore power or solar are suitable.
Also depends on your SoC at the beginning.
That means State of Charge, 0% to 100% full, DoD, depth of discharge is the opposite.
PDC = proper deep cycling as I defined above.
You expressed more regrets about the wrong battery, let it go no worries maybe for a year or even two!
Listen to your uncle Bob on that and move on https://vanlivingforum.com/showthread.php?pid=348236#pid348236
Listen to your uncle Bob on that and move on https://vanlivingforum.com/showthread.php?pid=348236#pid348236
Bohemian scout
Well-known member
John61CT said:
Ok thanks... I will let it go. Now will you help me decide on a battery charger? Something easy to understand and versatile. Does it have to be plugged in to charge or can it have a rechargeable battery? Can it have a compressor to air things up? I’m on a budget but don’t want cheap. I’m sure you’re figuring out I’m a question asker. They might not always make sense but how else am I to understand? I live in a city so have access to many stores. I appreciate your help and not giving up on me. Thanks!!!
A mains charger runs off AC shore power, 120 in the US or 240 elsewhere.Bohemian scout said:
None ever includes a battery, and a compressor is just bizarre, like asking for an espresso making attachment.
Maybe you're confusing with a jumpstarter powerpak?
Those may include a tiny charger for their tiny battery, but again nothing to do with powering the loads you're talking about.
Bohemian scout
Well-known member
John61CT said:
What's LFP?? Dang it you know I'm not good with these short cut letter abbreviations!!! LOL, BS
Bohemian scout
Well-known member
Well ok then ! Bizarre ? Really? Yeah I think I meant a jumpstarter power pak. Can you recommend a 110 charger?John61CT said:
