solar grounding help

[yimmortal]

[font=system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont,]Solar question read everything first please
ok, new system, where do I ground the solar controller??
I have 3 panels on the roof of my van, they are screwed right into the roof. about 1000 watts, wired in parallel. there is a bank of 4 batteries that are not grounded to the frame of the van.


this is what the instruction book says
Tracer AN series is a common-negative controller, if any of one negative is grounded, all the negative terminals of PV, Battery will be grounded simultaneously. However, according to the practical application, all the negative terminals of PV array, battery and load can also be ungrounded, but the grounding terminal on its shell must be grounded, which may effectively shield the electromagnetic interference from the outside, and prevent some electric shock to human body due to the electrification of the shell.
[font=Arial,Bold]CAUTION: For common-negative system, such as motorhome, it is recommended to use a common-negative controller;[/font]

[font=system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont,][font=system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont,]do I ground that lug on the shell of the controller to the battery bank, or to the frame of the van??[/font][/font]

 

[Wabbit]

Listening in because I think I have a similar question. I have not grounded my CC, but we might be talking about different things. Anyways...I'm listening in.

EDIT: yimmortal your link leads to a 404 page

EDIT2: Edits are on a timer. Not sure how long, but if you look at the bottom right of your post you'll see an edit button if time hasn't run out.

 

[Weight]

I had the same delima. After much reading and google search. I made a common ground with the house bank negative and chassis together. I still bring all negatives back to the battery, except a few lights. The case bonding studs (grounds) are taken to the chassis. I have those on the solar controller, 120V (volt) battery charger, and the inverter. I just use a cable one size lower than required on the 12V feed. From the case to chassis. This is usually called a bonding circuit.

 

[Trebor English]

The grounding terminal of the controller housing should be connected to chassis ground.  This connection should be as short as practical.  It should not be 20 feet of wire to go to the house battery negative.  If the house battery and solar panels are all isolated from the chassis the controller case grounding terminal should still be connected to the chassis.  

While driving if the air is dry there will be a build up of static electricity.  Grounding any one point of the solar system to the chassis will dissipate it.  The house battery negative is your best bet.  Anything else will confuse whoever comes after you.  Even though it would work to ground the house battery plus don't do that.

If you ever use the vehicle alternator to charge the house battery you must connect the hose battery minus to the vehicle chassis.  The alternator mounting bolts are its negative connection.    The charge controller case ground should not carry the alternator current.

 

[Weight]

Static?
My house battery negative does connect to the chassis. It is battery negative to shunt to bus bar to chassis. All negatives are to the bus bar. I don't depend on the chassis negative for important things such as charging. If I were to use the alternator to charge the house, there would be a negative return from battery to alternator case, or at least the engine block.