Sine or Modified Sine Inverter?

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Bardo

10 gauge seems pretty light for 1000w. Make sure the wires and connectors are not getting hot.

Mine called for 1/0 with holes to match.
 
I know but it's not getting even slightly warm. It was brand new amplifier wire from a car stereo installation kit. The continuous load seems to be between 4-6A.
 
My household electric blanket will not run on MSW so a pure it is for me. I have a roof full of solar and need my blankie on and off throughout the night if it is even chilly (my arthritis DEMANDS heat) so my off brand 2,000W/4,000W runs all the time. I don't stress the ghost load.

As for wire, I like mine a bit smaller for its flexibility but don't hesitate to double up.
 

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Boyntonstu said:
#10 copper wire has a resistance of about 0.001 Ohm per 12".

http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/Tables/wirega.html

15" therefore has about 0.00125 Ohm resistance.

Since Power = Current squared x R

We get 100 x 100 x 0.00125 = 12.5 Watts of power dissipation.

Conclusion:  It ain't gonna melt or blow!

Firstly, its a joke.  Secondly, you missed the jist of the comment. A fusible link wire is usually the smallest wire gauge in a wiring harness, designed to be the first thing that melts in a severe overload...like this one might melt at 500 amps or 1000 amps...as in a short circuit to the battery.

I never said it would melt at 100 amps. I joked it was like a fusible link for a 100 amp circuit. But double that wattage you calculated and it sure might be enough to start melting the plastic.

Again, it was a tongue in-cheek comment. See the smiley up there?
 
tx2sturgis said:
Firstly, its a joke.  Secondly, you missed the jist of the comment. A fusible link wire is usually the smallest wire gauge in a wiring harness, designed to be the first thing that melts in a severe overload...like this one might melt at 500 amps or 1000 amps...as in a short circuit to the battery.

I never said it would melt at 100 amps. I joked it was like a fusible link for a 100 amp circuit. But double that wattage you calculated and it sure might be enough to start melting the plastic.

Again, it was a tongue in-cheek comment. See the smiley up there?

To quote you:  "[font=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]For 100 amps those are just 'fusible links'!"[/font]

[font=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]Sorry, I misunderstood, i went by your words and not by your icon.[/font]

However, the science is clear that for #10 wire and not the smallest gauge wire, it is perfectly safe.

BTW The Voltage drop across the #10 wire is 100A x 0.00125 Ohms   = 0.125 Volts. 

Insignificant.
 
I'm using 2 GA heavy stranded copper, it does not bend well at all. difficult to work with, but, doesn't even warm up with a 100 amps flowing and yes I have done that running a 6.5 HP shop vac.
 
Boyntonstu said:
To quote you:  "[font=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]For 100 amps those are just 'fusible links'!"[/font]

[font=Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]Sorry, I misunderstood, i went by your words and not by your icon.[/font]

Crazy.

The words state, infer, and mean, a 0-100 amp circuit, protected by a fusible link, which tend to be smaller gauge and a short length, in an otherwise robust application. Fusible links are not (usually) rated at amperage, but by wire gauge.

Do you now understand the words, tongue-in-cheek as they were?

From Wiki:

"An electrical fusible link is a type of electrical fuse that is constructed simply with a short piece of wire typically four American wire gauge sizes smaller than the wire that is being protected. For example, an AWG 16 fusible link might be used to protect AWG 12 wiring. Electrical fusible links are common in high-current automotive applications. The wire in an electrical fusible link is encased in high-temperature fire-resistant insulation to reduce hazards when the wire melts."
 
Any wire chart will show, 10 AWG is safe to use up to 60 amps. It will start to overheat above that. Even less amps if enclosed or pared. Use a 50 amp fuse for 10 AWG. Voltage drop on a conductor is dependent on Wire size, length, and amps. 15 inches of 10 AWG at 100 amps results in just over 2% voltage drop. If starting with exactly 12 volts you get less than 11 3/4 volts at the end. More volts in, more lost volts out. Bad news for a charging system or a high power draw as an inverter.
Back to the OP, I use a Sine Wave inverter. 2000W by Samlex. 2/0, that is 00, cable from battery bank 24 inches to inverter. With a 250 amp fuse at the battery positive. Having my microwave was very important for medical reasons. If having a microwave, then may as well have a large enough one, so 1000W. If having a 2000w inverter, may as well have a Mr Coffee. If having 120 volt coffee maker, may as well have a toaster. No bad reports about my set up. I did have a bad experience using a MSW for a window fan during a power failure. Lots of smoke. There are square wave inverters labeled as modified wave. My guess is the cheapest are the worse. My cautionary is; Always use larger wires with low voltage direct current. Look them up on any of the wire size tables throughout the internet.
 
So for the wires to see 60a id have to have what a 720w load on the inverter? The fridges startup is likely more than that. They havent smoked yet.
 
Weight

Cab you show a chart for 10 gauge at 12v being good for 60a?

The best thing would be to follow the instructions for the inverter.
 
so this inverter recommended 10g wire. I find that hard to believe. highdesertranger
 
Weight said:
Any wire chart will show, 10 AWG is safe to use up to 60 amps. It will start to overheat above that. Even less amps if enclosed or pared. Use a 50 amp fuse for 10 AWG. Voltage drop on a conductor is dependent on Wire size, length, and amps. 15 inches of 10 AWG at 100 amps results in just over 2% voltage drop. If starting with exactly 12 volts you get less than 11 3/4 volts at the end. More volts in, more lost volts out. Bad news for a charging system or a high power draw as an inverter.
Back to the OP, I use a Sine Wave inverter. 2000W by Samlex. 2/0, that is 00, cable from battery bank 24 inches to inverter. With a 250 amp fuse at the battery positive. Having my microwave was very important for medical reasons. If having a microwave, then may as well have a large enough one, so 1000W. If having a 2000w inverter, may as well have a Mr Coffee. If having 120 volt coffee maker, may as well have a toaster. No bad reports about my set up. I did have a bad experience using a MSW for a window fan during a power failure. Lots of smoke. There are square wave inverters labeled as modified wave. My guess is the cheapest are the worse. My cautionary is; Always use larger wires with low voltage direct current. Look them up on any of the wire size tables throughout the internet.
 
Boyntonstu said:
Let's go over the math:

15 inches of 10 AWG at 100 amps results in just over 2% voltage drop. If starting with exactly 12 volts you get less than 11 3/4 volts at the end.

15" of 10 AWG  has a resistance of 0.00125 Ohms.  agree/disagree?

Voltage drop = Amps x Resistance   in this case 100 x 0.00125  or .125 Volts  agree/disagree?

.125 V / 12 V  x 100  = 1.04% drop   agree/disagree?

At the end of 15" the Voltage will be 12.0 - .125 or 11.875 Volts.

Do we agree?
 
Boyntonstu Wrote:

At the end of 15" the Voltage will be 12.0 - .125 or 11.875 Volts.

Do we agree?

At that level, the inverter might go into LVD..(BEEP!)...but since the normal operating voltage would be closer to 12.5-13.2 or so, it should run OK, depending on the default settings for the inverter.
 
tx2sturgis said:
At that level, the inverter might go into LVD..(BEEP!)...but since the normal operating voltage would be closer to 12.5-13.2 or so, it should  run OK, depending on the default settings for the inverter.

Agree.

I would suppose that we would not start using a battery at 12.0 V; more likely closer to 13 Volts.
 
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