Simplest Set-Up Suggestions

[yamsack]

Hi all,<br>What is the simplest, most basic (and inexpensive) set-up that I can put together for my electrical needs in my future van?&nbsp; Here is what I plan on doing.&nbsp; I plan on running my computer 24/7, maybe a mini fridge, and occasional use of the microwave, shaver, etc.<br><br>I don't want to run any type of wiring through my van's alternator or battery, so no fancy relays, circuit breakers, or anything like that.&nbsp; From what little I know, just a couple of deep cycle batteries, an inverter, a smart charger, and perhaps either a generator or solar panel to re-juice the batteries.<br><br>I'm gonna need your experiences to help me with exactly how to put this all together.&nbsp; I may have mentioned the components I want, but I have no idea how to put them together or in which order they should go.&nbsp; If possible, please give me specific brand names, model numbers, etc. as well as where I can purchase the stuff.&nbsp; In addition, please be specific in the set-up, if possible.&nbsp; Thanks very much for all of your help.<br><br><br>

 

[sl1966]

That's a big question, but here's a great site to at least help you answer some of it ...&nbsp;<a href="http://rvroadtrip.us/library/solar_install.asp" target="_blank">http://rvroadtrip.us/library/solar_install.asp</a><div><br></div><div><br></div>

 

[4x4tour]

I had this 2 bank 3-stage charger in my g20:<br><br>http://www.batterystuff.com/battery-chargers/12-volt/marine-chargers/GU2611A.html<br><br>and the generator of your choice <br><br><b>or </b><br><br>Honda 2000 generator with 12 volt charging.&nbsp; My cheap coleman powermate generator has 12 volts charging as well.&nbsp; They are easy to find on craigslist. <br><br><b>or</b><br><br>a cheap generator with an inverter/charger, a la:<br><br>http://aimscorp.net/1500_Watt_Pure_...uilt_in_Transfer_Switch_-and-_Charger-SKU249/<br><br><br>Personally, I wouldn't run a computer with a modified sine wave inverter, which is why i linked you to the one I got (pure sine wave). <br><br><br><br><br>

 

[user 423]

If you will be doing much traveling, you would be wasting the free extra juice from your van's alternator to charge your cabin batteries as you go down the road, IMO. If you don't have sufficient output from a solar setup, or won't be stopped and plugged into shore power, then that would help keep down the need to run a generator. A Surepower battery isolator wouldn't be that hard to install, with just some extra wiring and a couple of circuit breakers.<br><br>Also, there are DC-DC bricks available for laptops, which would eliminate the problems of a cheaper, non-TSW inverter. The cheaper modified-SW inverters will also burn up most misc. chargers but usually just blow the fuse...like on my 18v Sears rechargeable drill.<br><br>Keep in mind the better fridges that have low power draw are going to be expensive and the better Honda/Yamaha gens. are expensive, so a lot of your choices may be limited by your cash situation. If you just use a gen. to occasionally run the microwave or to top up the batteries, a less expensive one would do OK. <br><br><br>

 

[wheelsoffreedom1776]

Remember that a battery isolator works with diodes and has a voltage drop typically of .70 volts. Assuming a charging system voltage of 14 volts you would send 13.3 out of the isolator. Some isolators have a terminal for the voltage sense wire from the alternator (if your charging system has this), and will compensate for the drop. Most alternators today on passenger vans put out 105-140 amps. With flooded lead acid batteries you would need a minimum of 420 Amp hours of batteries to avoid the charge rate going beyond the acceptance rate of the batteries. (typical group 27-31 deep cycle is 125 AH, so would require four of these = 500 Amp Hours). You could use AGM type batteries which have an acceptance rate of 100% to 400% of the 20 hour capacity in Amp Hours. Example two group 31 AGM batteries at 125 AH a piece could be charged at a max current of 250 to 1000 amps. though the upper range should be with concorde brand agm. That being said , you should determine your daily amp hour draw to run all your items, and plan to not exceed 50% of your banks capacity between charging. Note: unless your charging system on your vehicle is abnormally high in voltage, any type of battery you choose will still need to be periodically charged with a source capable of producing 14.4V for AGM types, and up to 15.2V for FLA depending on the manufacturer. It should also be noted that when running a charger off of a generator, that most chargers are NOT power factor corrected and as a result will put out less current than their supposed rating, and will draw more input to achieve a given output. There is probably a word limit here somewhere so I better stop. <br>

 

[bobbert]

&nbsp;<br><b></b>a cheap generator with an inverter/charger, a la:<br>http://aimscorp.net/1500_Watt_Pure_...uilt_in_Transfer_Switch_-and-_Charger-SKU249/<br>Personally, I wouldn't run a computer with a modified sine wave inverter, which is why i linked you to the one I got (pure sine wave). <br>

<div><br></div><div><font class="Apple-style-span" size="4">It appears the AIMS site isn't working, and I don't mean to hijack the thread, but I was wondering, would a pure sinewave inverter (such as the AIMS 1500) operate an older (circa 1993) 120-volt microwave that is rated around 600 watts?&nbsp;</font></div><div><font class="Apple-style-span" size="4">Thanks in advance!</font></div>

 

[wagoneer]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1500W-2500W...aultDomain_0&amp;var=&amp;hash=item27ce44405c I wonder

 

[DougB]

Just for the record, I have purchased two different sizes (about 150A &amp; 300A) of pure sine Aims inverters for use with a desktop computer, and a TV. Both were twice the actual capacity needed. Neither could handle the load. The one on the TV kept cycling it on and off. Same with the big one powering the desktop. Tried a direct pull right off the batteries, using clamps. No change. A call to the vendor produced an RMA right away because "yeah, they just do that with some electronics." I went to Samlex inverters, which have had zero problems.

 

[VanLifeCrisis]

Im no expert, but here is my plans for solar, i will be running mostly the same things.<br><br>Batteries $165+core charge: 2 of these <br>http://www.samsclub.com/sams/duracell-golf-car-battery-group-size-gc2/prod3590228.ip?navAction=#desc<br><br>Some Panels (they go in and out of stock, so watch for them) $300 + shipping (non freight):<br>http://www.amazon.com/145w-Polycrystalline-Solar-Panel-Pack/dp/B007VPQP5Q/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top<br><br>Charge Controller $40:<br>http://www.amazon.com/HQRP-Controll...r_1_14?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1344930133&amp;sr=8-14<br><br>or the upgrade $200:<br>http://ressupply.com/store/solar-ch...pt500-mppt-charge-controller-42a-12/24/48-vdc<br><br>Inverter $75:<br>http://www.amazon.com/Cobra-CPI1000...708511&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=1000w+inverter<br><br> So $580-740 plus cables and some inline fuzes.&nbsp; The fridge and the microwave are the real juicers there. I don't know what all you need for a generator setup, but it will probably cost more for a decent generator.&nbsp; <br><br>Panels connect to the controller, controller connects to the batteries (they connect to each other in serial to make 12V) and the batteries connect to 12V sockets or the inverter, which finally connects to appliances.<br><br>