Should a solar setup be wired like this?

[Minivanmotoman]

Thx Weight for the info and help. MM as well, and I feel for you bro, we understand.

From what I can gather to rearrange the wiring, will suggest that the live, +ve wires are the critical ones for location. Ground wire can't short by itself unless touching a live +ve, correct?

1. Route them more direct with no or minimal crossovers of other wires.
2. Tie down all wires to eliminate movement, flex and inadvertent contact, chasing and potential shorts.
3. Select or relocate items to simplify and minimize wiring installation.
This all sounds simple but not so obvious for the inexperienced as can be evidenced by the initial pics.

Thx for the responses from all, this may be routine and redundant for the experienced, but there are lots more on here reading this for information and educational purposes.

 

[Minivanmotoman]

Actually asked twice for cheap fuse sources and no responses so far...
Can suitable fuses and holders be bought at Home Depot?

And to clarify, not asking about cheap ATC/ ATO fuses but more specifically, economical source of "INLINE" fuses for the heavier gauge wiring.

 

[B and C]

ANL fuses are available at most auto parts stores if you blow one and need to replace your spare. They work well and have a high enough amperage rating to handle what the wire will provide. Always carry a couple spares of every fuse size you use and hope you never need to use them.

Amazon search: anl fuse holder This will be good for the battery to the buss bar and at least a 100 amp fuse.

The load circuits should go through one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Sys...locphy=9027693&hvtargid=pla-383472770805&th=1 or if you want to save a few pennies use some of these that are the same wiring gauge as the circuit you are running: https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&k...argid=kwd-451338443935&ref=pd_sl_7go5c96zc5_e

Wire loom will help dress the wiring up: https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Polyethylene-Wire-Diameter-Black/dp/B00DP3K8A6 Auto parts also sell it and it comes in different diameters. The loom can be opened up along the split and screwed to the wall. When the wires are all tucked away, use tie wraps to keep it closed.

Flow of current. I'll see if I can explain it. Think of the positive wire as a water system. Your battery is the water tower (with a big pipe) and the solar charge controller (SCC) is the pump (with a small pipe) drawing from a water source (the solar panels) where water is put into the tower to be drawn upon during peak demand. The pump isn't big enough to keep up when the demand for water is high or at night when the SCC isn't producing power. So electricity flows from the sources that have it to what is calling for it. So in reality, any load that is not more than the SCC can put out, it all goes to the load with any excess into the tower (battery) if it needs it or if no load all goes into the battery if it needs it.

The wire for the solar panel is large to help mitigate voltage drop over distance. These should be fused at a little over what the amp rating of the solar panel output is but no bigger than what the wire will carry. Solar panels can only supply so many amps and will only supply power up to their maximum output. You can't draw more from them than they can produce so you don't have to worry about blowing a correctly sized fuse.

I hope this helps to understand electricity a little better.

 

[B and C]

Nothing wrong with ATO/ATC fuses. Every vehicle uses them. The fuses are meant to be cheap, not the fuse holders.

 

[Weight]

I posted two links with what I consider the quality needed to save your ass. The two links were well researched and provide quality at reasonable prices. Can you use stuff from Home Depot? Maybe not, as they are a home builder supply. That would be 120 volts ac, not dc. You can get fuses at automotive electronic supplies, like for radios. Good luck with a cheap system.

 

[Weight]

Sorry. I should have read the rest of the thread before getting snarky. I am snowed in and getting grumpy.

 

[VanTalk00]

As far as inline fuses are concerned
This is what I discovered and like:

terminal fuse blocks - look on Amazon for reviews, then buy on ebay for a better price

Fuses  - most reasonable I could find - Del City

The advantage of these is that you can attach them to the battery or switch terminal post and avoid an extra cable.

Look at my latest video for lots of other comments about my system, and look at my recent post for sources of good info.

Jim

 

[highdesertranger]

I agree electrical is not the place to cheap out. I wouldn't use residential electrical parts in a mobile application. I also frown on car stereo supplies, especially the type that use a set screw to pinch the wire. highdesertranger

 

[Minivanmotoman]

@B&C and Vantalk - Thx for the great information, great stuff and very useful. Exactly whats needed.

@ HDR, don't all or most Charge controllers use screws to pinch the wires and thus not worth the frown? You must frown allot. Lol.

So we've pondered, contemplated and assessed the wiring scenario to determine a better wiring installation or as some have called it, in classy engineering speak no doubt, the rats nest.
Then we pondered some more, reassessed, and are working on revision version 2.0.

Living and learning. Nothing has smoked, burnt or exploded yet. And no animals were harmed during the installation. Yay!
So moving onto solutions to improve the setup.

Things assessed or learned which might help others;

1. Have to work with the existing realities which in this case means, existing wire entry and installation location. It's not always ideal. Generally, wiring and equipment is laid out on one flat surface which makes it easier. In this case, due to space limitations, things had to be placed on another wall adding more complexity.

2. Keep wire runs as short as possible, wire firmly affixed and supported, nothing loose.

3. The multitude of wiring and hookups appeared complex and daunting to us beginners with limited experience. In this case, thought it best to break it down into smaller parts. First layout the main positive wires from battery to fuse to charge controllers, as simply and directly as possible. Then layout the negative wires, trying to keep the +ve all on one side and the -ve wires on the opposite. Much easier if you have sufficient vertical space to stack and just go up and down vertically with your equipment and wiring. Unfortunately, not the case in this situation.

4. Critical wires are the live +ve for which primary consideration should be given. So we planned on laying the path for those first, placing all units in the best possible alignment for direct, short runs and all on the same side to minimize any wire crossovers or overlaps as much as possible.

In this case, could relocate the charge controller to minimize live +ve wire length and overlaps. Placed the charge controllers as close to and inline to the positive battery terminal as possible. And consequently, keeping the -ve wire on the other side and away from the positives. Some were run side by side like booster cables which should be fine if wires are firmly fixed.

Will post pics when done of the improved layout.

 

[VanTalk00]

@ HDR, don't all or most Charge controllers use screws to pinch the wires and thus not worth the frown? You must frown allot. Lol.

You need to use ferrules to keep the strands together.
10pcs 8 Gauge Wire Ferrule Amplifier Power 8 AWG Tin Copper Amp non insulated

 

[Minivanmotoman]

Thx Vantalk, learned something new.
Never seen those before in the residential and industrial electrical work that I've been exposed to which use screw-in wire recepticles.
Where are they used primarily?
Love to learn new stuff, expanding the brain.
Hope it doesn't blow a fuse! Lol.

 

[Master Mechanic]

You need to use ferrules to keep the strands together.
10pcs 8 Gauge Wire Ferrule Amplifier Power 8 AWG Tin Copper Amp non insulated

this is from midnite solar forums. it should be same on any charge controller or clamp type circuit breaker. UL approved wires are thicker strands and y i only use UL approved on all wiring.

power terminals on the KID are designed for #10 AWG cable  --  THHN building wire (19 strand).    NOT finely-stranded cable.

 

[B and C]

THHN building wire is not designed to withstand the rigors of vibration. The wires are too stiff. Mobile environments are a whole nother ball game from a stick and bricks.

 

[Master Mechanic]

THHN building wire is not designed to withstand the rigors of vibration.  The wires are too stiff.  Mobile environments are a whole nother ball game from a stick and bricks.

recommended for a work truck id say thats mobile.  its 19 strand not solid copper.

 

[B and C]

You got a link for that? Every THHN 19 strand wire I see is for buildings.

 

[Master Mechanic]

You got a link for that?  Every THHN 19 strand wire I see is for buildings.

http://midniteftp.com/forum/index.php?topic=3588.0

 

[B and C]

That is a forum run by enthusiasts and not the official opinion of the company. Just opinions like here.

Edit to add: THHN wire is designed to be run in a conduit and has thin insulation.

 

[Master Mechanic]

That is a forum run by enthusiasts and not the official opinion of the company.  Just opinions like here.

Edit to add:  THHN wire is designed to be run in a conduit and has thin insulation.

its a solar only forum and both have over 2000 posts i am going with what they said. no thin strand for me.

 

[B and C]

If you want to do it that way it is fine for you, hopefully your wires don't break. Not best practices. For best practices look into the marine stuff.

 

[Weight]

The only screw down clamp connection I have are on the solar controller. My 4awg marine cable was difficult to fit, but it has been flawless for three years. No ferrules. The home builder, THHN, rated wire can be used, but it is much more difficult to route, and it doesn't like vibration.