Sheeps Wool or Polyiso

[Fork King]

I am building a new 24' 8.5' wide cargo trailer. I will live in year round. It gets in the 90's in the summer and below freezing in the winter.

I plan on going 4" preferably Sheep's Wool or PolyIso. Anyone have experience with 4" or greater for heat and AC retention?

I do not mind spending the extra if it will be worth it.

Leaning to the Sheep's Wool for moisture retention / release ability and still maintain insulation value. It's sound proofing ability. No offgassing and fire retarding ability.

Thanks,
The Fork King

 

[VanFan]

I've wondered whether sheep's wool is attractive to rodents, and whether it settles downward over time.

 

[Fork King]

Just checked it says Wool is not a recognised food source for rodents including rats, mice and squirrels.

 

[Fork King]

If anyone has any suggestions please let me know. There is also 3M Thinsulate.

This is probably my last build and forever home, hopefully . So I want it as perfect and built to last as possible.

Going with a Mini Split and at leat a 2000w 24v solar system.

 

[bullfrog !]

I think the biggest concern will be the thermal transfer through the metal ribs and fasteners that will have little or no insulation. You may be better off building an interior box out of ridged foam insulation in my opinion. tnttt website has a whole forum on cargo trailer build outs you might take a look at.

 

[Fork King]

Thanks for the info, I will check that out. I was planning on 2" between the metal studs then using furring strips and run 2" across the metal studs.

 

[user 22017]

You could research aerogel and let us know what you found out (for price).

https://www.aerogel.com/product/spaceloft/

 

[shadowmoss]

hmmm. $212 fir a 12"x48" batt. seems expensive.

 

[maki2]

Just checked it says Wool is not a recognised food source for rodents including rats, mice and squirrels.

But it is a recognized nesting material. The rodents do not just come in for food, most of the time they come in for a nice warm soft and dry place to have a litter. Just like you they want a warm dry place for a cozy home. That is a number one biological driving force in nature right up there with food.

 

[jacqueg]

Just checked it says Wool is not a recognised food source for rodents including rats, mice and squirrels.

But they sure as hell will nest in it! And keep in mind that mice can get through an amazingly small crack, so if you use this, make sure your wall is well-sealed.

 

[maki2]

Do not bother trying to make a van into a super insulated space. It won’t work no matter what you do. There is too much surface area you can’t super insulate such as the doors, windshield, the driver and passenger windows, the floor and the ceiling.

Your best bet for a super insulated camper would be a windowless box truck without a pass through to the cab. Look for a retired refrigerated delivery truck that is already professionally super insulated.

 

[RonDean]

In my last trailer build I used 2" foil faced foam boards I got at Lowes and was happy with the results. When I measured temp against a factory build camper next door, mine was always better (hot or cold). My research said: "foil-faced insulation and loose-fill cellulose insulation are two materials that rodents dislike chewing through."

Now I am doing a van build and finding moisture collecting inside the high-top - which is uninsulated. I am considering again using foam board but hate to use up 2" of my height. I'm still mulling this one over. Other ideas are welcome.

 

[bullfrog !]

in my experience as long as there isn’t enough ventilation to dry out any large amounts of moisture that van living produces you will have condensation. Condensation causes mold, rot and rust. Insulation/coverings mainly keeps you from being rained on in the mornings in cold weather because you failed to ventilate well enough. Using a larger vented dry heat source, vented cooking area, showering outside and staying in warmer dry climates in cold weather should be your first thoughts. In warm weather in humid areas air conditioning systems remove most moisture and ventilation is not as much of a problem. When van living I usually did not insulate but did line, cover the ceiling or hang material that was easily removed and cheap to replace to catch moisture if I was forced into a humid climate. Many old schoolies had carpets and sheets glued or hung from the uninsulated ceilings. It is a question of balance of systems and situations. If you can get to a point where you do not get condensation on the bare ceiling you are doing things right! If you have lots of condensation insulation is only going to help a little and and hide the real problem which is a lack of ventilation which may cause bigger problems later.

 

[rruff]

My research said: "foil-faced insulation and loose-fill cellulose insulation are two materials that rodents dislike chewing through."

The mice seem to like the loose fill cellulose in my attic! Now that the cat is gone I've needed to step up and be " the big scary monster" that keeps them from coming down and getting in my food...

It's a very good idea to keep your rig sealed from intrusion. They'll get into anything, doesn't really matter what.

I plan on going 4" preferably Sheep's Wool or PolyIso. Anyone have experience with 4" or greater for heat and AC retention?

I can say that 4" is a lot for a small rig, and the difference vs 2" may be a lot less than you think. If you seal it well and use a heat exchanger for fresh air, and don't go in our out much, then it might be worth it.

Where will you be parked and how will you be living? AC is an expensive thing to do with solar, but if you need it, you need it...

 

[Fork King]

The mice seem to like the loose fill cellulose in my attic! Now that the cat is gone I've needed to step up and be " the big scary monster" that keeps them from coming down and getting in my food...

It's a very good idea to keep your rig sealed from intrusion. They'll get into anything, doesn't really matter what.



I can say that 4" is a lot for a small rig, and the difference vs 2" may be a lot less than you think. If you seal it well and use a heat exchanger for fresh air, and don't go in our out much, then it might be worth it.

Where will you be parked and how will you be living? AC is an expensive thing to do with solar, but if you need it, you need it...

It's a Cargo Trailer 24' long x 8.5' Wide and 8' interior height. I do not mind loosing 8" on the sides or 8" of height.

I live in the Grand Canyon National Park. Hot in the summer 90's and cold in winter 0° and below overnight.

All tanks and plumbing inside. No black tank going compost.

I will be using a Pioneer Dynamite Mini Split. It is rated at 22 seer says its good to 120° and -20°.

 

[Fork King]

in my experience as long as there isn’t enough ventilation to dry out any large amounts of moisture that van living produces you will have condensation. Condensation causes mold, rot and rust. Insulation/coverings mainly keeps you from being rained on in the mornings in cold weather because you failed to ventilate well enough. Using a larger vented dry heat source, vented cooking area, showering outside and staying in warmer dry climates in cold weather should be your first thoughts. In warm weather in humid areas air conditioning systems remove most moisture and ventilation is not as much of a problem. When van living I usually did not insulate but did line, cover the ceiling or hang material that was easily removed and cheap to replace to catch moisture if I was forced into a humid climate. Many old schoolies had carpets and sheets glued or hung from the uninsulated ceilings. It is a question of balance of systems and situations. If you can get to a point where you do not get condensation on the bare ceiling you are doing things right! If you have lots of condensation insulation is only going to help a little and and hide the real problem which is a lack of ventilation which may cause bigger problems later.

Thanks for the info. I plan on putting in dual pane windows and will have 2 maxxair fans 1 in front and 1 in back of the cargo trailer.

The MiniSplit is a dry heat and will run a Dickinson wood stove in the winter along with the MiniSplit. The Mini says it is rated to -20° so time will tell.


I am second guessing the wool. I might just go with XPS or Polyiso after all I have been hearing and researching.

 

[Fork King]

In my last trailer build I used 2" foil faced foam boards I got at Lowes and was happy with the results. When I measured temp against a factory build camper next door, mine was always better (hot or cold). My research said: "foil-faced insulation and loose-fill cellulose insulation are two materials that rodents dislike chewing through."

Now I am doing a van build and finding moisture collecting inside the high-top - which is uninsulated. I am considering again using foam board but hate to use up 2" of my height. I'm still mulling this one over. Other ideas are welcome.

Thanks for the info. I think I will go with XPS. Polyiso is higher R value but not in colder climates.

 

[Fork King]

Do not bother trying to make a van into a super insulated space. It won’t work no matter what you do. There is too much surface area you can’t super insulate such as the doors, windshield, the driver and passenger windows, the floor and the ceiling.

Your best bet for a super insulated camper would be a windowless box truck without a pass through to the cab. Look for a retired refrigerated delivery truck that is already professionally super insulated.

Thanks for the info. It is a 24' Cargo Trailer 24' L X 8.5 W X 8' Interior Height.

 

[bullfrog !]

That’s a big trailer! What will you tow it with?

 

[Fork King]

2022 Ram 2500 6.4l