Self tapping screws?WTF

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another tip for using self tappers (or drillers) is to be very careful once they start threading.
it is very easy to be pushing hard trying to get the hole to start ('just scratching the paint'), then it does start and before you know it the drill overpowers the screw and it strips the threads.

until you learn the 'feel', i would drill the small pilot hole, then install the screws.

a necessity for self tappers/drillers is a power drill/driver with adjustable clutch. start with it too 'soft' then adjust one click at a time til it seats the screw properly without stripping. even when seating screws by hand, it's easy to strip the threads. pretty fine line between snug, tight and 'oh crap!' :rolleyes:
 
Note with a reasonable pilot hole in the middle, a solid driver handle and decent forearm strength, you can finish off by hand.

Gives the maximum control, less likely to screw up :cool: plus a bit of exercise
 
Why would anyone use philips head screws when you can use T-star head screws.  I built a couple outbuilding in the past and using those self drilling screws pissed me off all the time.  I found drilling a pilot hole worked better for me.  It' one of those things you have to adapt to your comfort level.
 
Trailer screws (square) and star-drive (torx) screws are nice during an install....but damn if I can find the right bits later when I need to remove one.

During my 'build', I removed all the interior panels and trim to install insulation, and then replaced almost all of the trailer screws in the interior of my trailer with quality phillips head self-drilling screws. I did use some hex-head self drilling screws where more strength was needed. 

If you buy the good ones, and the right size, high quality bits, and your drill has electric brake, they work well. Very well, in fact. 

I always put the drill clutch on FULL and rely on experience and feel to get the job done. But the power drill NEEDS to have variable speeds and electric brake, which most of the quality cordless drill/drivers have now.
 
I work in the trades and have had the same problem more than once . Imagine how I felt when I realized my screw gun was in reverse ? :(
 
I'm not a fan of self tapping screws, but drilling and tapping holes in a van body would be a day long process.

Ya gotta put a little force on the drill/driver to get them to bite, and let them spin a while. Once they bite, they work great for sheetmetal. X2 on the predrilling of the wood.
 
You need self drilling screws with a "hardened steel tip".
I went to my local specialty hardware provider Tacoma Screw in the Seattle region and got the right kind that is made for going into the thicker steel structure versus the types sold in Hardware and Home Depot that are made for fastening thinner sheet metal. The difference is in the hardened steel tip. I had to get them to tap the hex head stainless steel screws into the frame of my trailer so I could install clamps to hold the wiring for the trailer lights and also attach ground wires to the frame.

If you are going to do a build out go online and order a box of them instead of wasting time driving around to Home Depot or hardware stores trying to find a product those stores do not stock.

I am fortunate to have a specialty hardware store near where I am doing my renovation and even for normal hardware pieces it cost less to buy from them than from the local hardware store.
 
I bought Teks self-tapping screws at Lowes and they worked like a charm.
No need to pre-drill and even on slow drill speeds they cut through metal on my E150 and held like a charm.
I bought the ones with a domed Phillips head and a slight rim, like a built-in washer.
They were shiny, low profile and the few that are in exposed locations look so good you don't even mind them.
The wider heads will resist pulling through panelling.

I had used cheaper Hillman "self-drilling" screws for another project and they didn't work very well at all.

The Hillman screws had a point that was too "pointy" and the edges of the "drill" surface weren't very sharp.
Conversely the Teks screws had a shallower drill angle with very sharp drill edges.
The teks screws would begin to bite almost immediately when driving them and then pull tight until whatever I was screwing was flush with van wall/support.
In my other project, the Hillman screws would spin a half-dozen rotations or more before biting and you had to be careful torquing them.
As you drove the flush they would spin if torqued to hard and strip, loosening slightly.
 
Steel tip screws? Ok when I do a rebuild I’ll get those. I did everything myself and it’s obvious not professional looking! I ended up predrilling with this very small drill bit for metal as a pilot hole and then drilled using the self tapping screws. I need to redo the ceiling and bed.walls are good for me! Thanks
 
they are all steel tipped. I think you are looking for the ones that have a drill bit tip and yes they is a vast difference in quality. highdesertranger
 

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