Sears mini fridge/freezer thoughts

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Thanks for the update.

Your batteries could be a little punch drunk after such duties.

A good long recharge will likely restore some capacity.

A PITA, but a 16 volt EQ cycle can really do some wonders on batteries worked so hard day after day week after week.

A glass turkey baster style Hydrometer will reveal how punch drunk they are. Voltage is not a good indicator, even rested, on punch drunk batteries.

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-4619-Professional-Battery-Hydrometer/dp/B0050SFVHO
 
Ill pick one of those up...hope it comes with instructions

I will say the fridge has been invaluable tho, i brought my bp from 170/116 to 120/60 by 'eating in' with ms dash and fresh food
 
So is it verified that this fridge uses only 30w, not counting the startup surge.

My 1.3 cf freezer is running at 70-90w and the temps inside the van is usually 100-112F right now. Opening one door and turning on the fans, it drops about 5-6 degrees. Startup surge is like 150w.
 
its not confirmed by me, i do not have a killowatt yet. i think ill order one tho and post back what it says.
 
Also, what kind of batteries do you have for your 220 AH?

Are they the true deep cycle batteries like the golf cart ones or are they the Marine Deep Cycles? I'm looking at an MDC at Costco for $90 that's rated at 105 AH. I know they're not as good as the TDC's, but I don't want to spend so much and was wondering how yours are holding out if they're MDC's. Thanks for the info.

Also, I have this one Optima Red Top, car starting battery. Someone told me it's an AGM. It's at least 10 years old and abused by being discharged completely many times from sitting in all 4 seasons, sometimes for a full year or more (completely dead). This battery is still running and starting up my car that's rated at needing 550 CCA, fine. Pretty wild.
 
I've got one of those MDC's from Costco, and an identical one from Wal-Mart (just a different sticker), but a bit higher capacity.. I think 120AH ea. Decent batteries and, seeing as they're 12v, I won't be screwed if one goes tits-up, like what happened to me years ago when I had 2 deep cycle 6v batteries and one bit the biscuit. Nice thing about them is that, in a pinch, I can use it for my truck if the starter battery fails. ..Willy.
 
One way to look at the comparison is if you treat them well, a Marine battery will last a long time but you spent less money for it. If you treat it badly it will fail soon, but you spent a lot less for it than a good battery you would have killed also.

Either way its a pretty good deal.

I'd chose between costco and walmart based on warranty and return policy. I've returned deep cycles to Walmart and it was a good experience but I'm sure costco would be too. There are a whole lot more Walmarts than Costcos. If you travel that would very important.
Bob
 
Why chose marine over true deep cycle? As well as the reasons by Willy. If you only need about 100 amp hours, it is less money, as you only need one battery for 12 volts. One 200+ 6 volt golf cart cost close to one 100+ amp hour marine, and you need two golf cart for 12 volts. But if you need 200+ amp hour then two 12 volt marine cost double two 6 volt golf cart. Marine batteries are easier to find, NAPA, Sears, Walmart, &c. Golf cart are available at some few Walmart, at most Sam's club, Costco, ie; harder to find. The well treated marine battery will perform very well, not as well as golf cart, but acceptable if not abused. My 2c, the Sam's Club gulf cart batteries are preferred until you can afford more expensive Glass Mat or LiFePo banks. Golf Cart are forgiving of poor discharge and recharge cycles. Golf Carts are the best way to learn house bank battery management. Then you can splurge.


Wait that aint right my math is from the wrong dimension on this one.


Six-volt golf cart @ $90 time two for 12 volt/200+ amp hours. $180
Twelve-volt marine @ $90 times two for 12 volt/200+ amp hours. $180
Sorry, that was not my strong point.
But golf carts are better than marine for house banks.
 
I bet your Kenmore is this same one made by Midea. They both have the same model#, looks the same, and when they don't list the wattage, it usually means it's an energy hog even if it does say Energy Star. http://www.amazon.com/HD-113F-Full-...fkmr0&keywords=Kenmore+HD-113F#productDetails

Like my 3.1 Hair fridge/freezer is about 90w and my 1.3 Haier freezer only, is also around 90w. Startup is around 150w that trickles down to around 120w in the first 1-2 minutes....then slowly down to 90w where it stays until shutoff. Both had the Energy Star sticker on them. This is why it causes your 800w inverter to sound the alarm. A 30w fridge shouldn't overwhelm an 800w inverter like that. You should definitely get a Kilawatt, it tells you a lot. It's currently on sale: http://promotions.newegg.com/NEemai...x-_-E0-_-PromoWord&et_cid=9590&et_rid=2476623

This one here by Kenmore is $219 and it does list 75 watts because I think that's considered very good for these small refrigerators. http://www.amazon.com/3-1-Fridge-Fr...8-2&keywords=Kenmore+3.1+cu+ft#productDetails
 
Please note that some Wally world batteries are rated using the 5 or even 1 hour rate instead of the standard 20 hour rate.

A battery rated at 120 A/h at the 1 hour rate might only read 100 A/h at the 20 hour rate.

Walmart dishonesty, and trickery.

In 2007 I bought 3 marine batteries at walmart, same age size, everything.

First battery failed at 13 months with a shorted cell, second at 23 with a highly resistive cell, the third was then delegated for engine starting duties only and lasted another 5 years.

It is not easy to acquire a true deep cycle 12v battery. The larger TDC 12v's are a bit compromised as they are acid starved . They have shoved so much lead inside what was originally designed to be a very high CCA rated starting battery case.

An analogy would be like a drag race car, repurposed to be a highway cruiser trying to get max MPG.

The group 27, 29 and 31 size batteries are not much different in size at all, yet will have capacity ratings from 95 to 130 amp hours and weights anywhere from 48 to 68 lbs.

It seems the higher the capacity crammed into the same Jar, has issues requiring higher voltages for longer to return the specific gravity to the maximum.

I have a group 31 USbattery, a true deep cycle, and I have my voltage setpoints at 14.9v absorption and 15.3v float, and this is still not enough to max out the SG daily. It can sit at 15.3v for hours each day and not max out. I have to apply 16v every 2 weeks for approximately an hour to do so and to get any performance from this battery. I read about the same issues with Trojan 12v deep cycle batteries in this size range. These recharging voltages are well outside the oft published figures and outside most charging sources capabilities. If I could not reprogram my solar controller to go this high, this battery would have been toast by now.

One former battery/ alternator engineer I correspond with says that these lower rated large 12v jars will likely perform better for longer than the higher capacity rated jar, which is opposite the general more is better philosophy. He says the group 27,31 and 34/78 batteries are problem size batteries and define the ability of any battery manufacturer to 'get it right' when a deep cycle design is attempted to be shoehorned into these Size cases/jars. And apparently few do.

Golf cart batteries were originally designed long ago around deep cycling and are not just a large starting battery jar/case with "deep cycle" internals crammed inside like so many 12v jars are.

GC batteries are much easier to return to max SG( specific gravity) requiring lower voltages and durations at those voltages and will better match the algorithms of most commonly available charging sources.

Lifespan on the deeply cycled battery is directly proportional to how easy it is to return the SG to the maximum when recharging. Some batteries require lots to return them there, others not so much. The GC's are not so much.

Verify with a hydrometer to see how well your charging sources are doing. It is extremely enlightening, and a bit depressing too, when one finds out that their recharge sources are not doing the job very well.

Also annoying when one needs to apply high voltages every so many cycles, and has no charging source capable of reaching the mid 15's.

I reprogram my solar controller to goto 16v when needed, and unfortunately this is every two weeks.
 
That's some good info there Sternwake. Looks like the golf cart batteries are the way to go. I'm glad you told me about your experience of buy 3 brand new Marine batteries and how they didn't last very long. You're probably a lot more meticulous with maintaining compared to myself.

What do you think about the Optima red-top, car starting batteries? The reason I ask is that in case I need to use it as a starting battery.
 
I have a killawatt now

The inverter squels cause low voltage not from high wattage. When i have full charge it doesn't do it.

I have 2 golf carts for 215ah.

ill post a vid of the meter with me forcing it on


Vid is giving me fits, looks like surge on start up is 360 for a second, drops to 120 and falls to 90 and hovered there till it cut off, 10 watts goes to the light bulb inside.

I don't know how that guy got his reading in that original vid.


Also, i hadn't noticed but i had accidently cracked the fridge up to highest setting at some point where before it was at the lower setting. Might explain why i dropped a couple days off my time between charges...


The initial surge isn't always the same..it was 200 something after i unplugged and tried again. I wonder what makes it vary.
 
Start up surges are always difficult to read, and it can be different depending where the compressor's piston was at the time the power was sent to it again.

Lots of products make claims, like they say it draws 30 watts, but it actually draws 90 watts but only runs 33% of the time and they average it out, run through the marketers, get an OK from the lawyers and only the consumer is screwed in the end.

Pretty much all advertising claims must be taken with a huge grain of salt. there is no truth in advertising, and no consequence for outright lying either it seems.

The Kill a watt might not be reading the modified sine wave correctly, and it also does not take into account the fact that inverters are only 90% efficient at best .

A clamp on Ammeter clamped over one wire leading to the batteries will be more accurate as to what the batteries are actually having to deliver.

I've got this one:
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-digital-clamp-on-ammeter/p-03482369000P

Doesn't the kill a watt count the current consumed over a time period? This is a better figure to run with compared to instantaneous wattage readings
 
I thought it did but not sure how to get that.

Btw i got vid to finally work, had to del some vids lol




I looked and it shows cost over time but not seeing other time related stuff but and elapsed time clock.

Oh it has kwh 0.05 not sure that helps tho.
 
Here's what I have:
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Haier-4.5-cu-ft-Refrigerator-Freezer-Black/16606469
I don't think of it as I might a refrigerator in an apartment. Sometimes I freeze a gallon milk jugs and keep it in the frig. That will keep it cold for several days, and then I'll have a gallon of ice water. I use it as a cooler. Does it make sense to spend $4 on a gallon of gas to run the generator to keep the refrigerator running when you could just spend $2 on some ice? Sometimes I'll be at a festival and there will be an outlet I can use. I can take the refrigerator out of the van and put it outside. When I'm using the refrigerator as an ice chest, I'll try not to open it often. I'll get out 6 beers and put them in a smaller cooler, and cover the refrigerator with an old sleeping bag.
 
Thanks for the followup on the numbers. I kind of figured that 30w was way too good to be true, when mine, at 1/2 the size is sucking 70-90w. I was still hoping though, that maybe I can upgrade.

All of these dorm fridges seems to share the same type of marketing strategy, which is to not list the actual wattage. The only one I've seen that does is the Sears Kenmore that's a newer model than yours for $219 on Amazon and it's 75w.
 
Well this one falls down in the 70s after a while when its already cool i noticed last night. I guess it pulls less when its just trying to maintain.


So if i were to switch to a dc..what would be the goto?

I use the freezer most, only keeping almond milk and condiments and drinks below
 
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