Seal for Stove
- Thread starter Cy_5th
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Silicone will work fine. Put a SMALL line of the sealant just underneath the edge of the stove all around the perimeter and then lower it into place. Remove any excess squeeze out, you want some squeeze out but not a huge mess to clean up. That secures the stove top so it won’t shift or vibrate as well as keeping water and dirt out from under the edge. Because you are in a mobile situation the installation varies from using only clamps underneath the counter the way it would be done per instructions.
Also if you do have camps with screws that tighten against the underside of the counter do put some of the blue colored Theadlocker on those screw threads so they do not back out from vibrations when driving over bumps in the road. Do not use the red threadlocker as it makes the screws very difficult to remove in the future. All hardware stores and auto parts stores sell Threadlocker. The name brand of it does not matter. This sane installation method of silicone seal and threadlocker on screws in mounting clamps also works for mounting sinks into a mobile living space situation.
If you ever need to remove the stove top a thin steel blade, flexible oil painters pallet knife will shimmy in under the stove edge and doing no damage can cut through the silicone that is holding the stove top in place.
Also if you do have camps with screws that tighten against the underside of the counter do put some of the blue colored Theadlocker on those screw threads so they do not back out from vibrations when driving over bumps in the road. Do not use the red threadlocker as it makes the screws very difficult to remove in the future. All hardware stores and auto parts stores sell Threadlocker. The name brand of it does not matter. This sane installation method of silicone seal and threadlocker on screws in mounting clamps also works for mounting sinks into a mobile living space situation.
If you ever need to remove the stove top a thin steel blade, flexible oil painters pallet knife will shimmy in under the stove edge and doing no damage can cut through the silicone that is holding the stove top in place.
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Cy_5th
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Thanks for the reply.
Lower it in place? I do not know yet how to access this guts of the stove. It's already in place. Kind of just wan to do the quick and dirty and put the bead on as is will that work?
I like to cook (cooking as I type)
Do you recommend I also have some protection for the cabinets above the stove and around from like the steam or splatter etc? so that the wood and fabric dont degrade in some way. Some kind of film at least above where most of the steam or splatter will occur.
Definitely will get a fry splatter cover for the pan.
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Cy_5th
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Lower it in place? I do not know yet how to access this guts of the stove. It's already in place. Kind of just want to do the quick and dirty and put the bead on as is, will that work?
What if the builders of this kitchen did some protection underneath it all already? Just want to make sure and put it on the external? In case?
I can’t tell from the photo if a stove hood will fit or not. That would be the ideal solution. You can buy RV stove hoods in a few colors plus stainless steel.
You do not access the guts of the stove. It is one single unit, not individual pieces. Just find a user manual for it and it will show you exactly how it gets installed into a countertop. You would want to know that information anyway. Try not to be so stressed, this is easy stuff to deal with. But if you can’t deal with it just go into a hardware store and buy a small tube of kitchen and bath silicone caulk and seal that one edge.
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Cy_5th
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I like that idea thanks. Will look into that.
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I'd get a splatter shield to keep grease off the window and valance. They come in all different sizes:
https://a.co/d/bNODnLg
Cy_5th
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Perfect, just measured from countertop to right above the fabric frame. Getting the 40 cm one.
To complement the stove hood. Should give enough protection im looking for.
Or buy more of the splatter shield cut it up and paste it above , under the wood cabinet.
You can buy thin aluminum sheet metal in various smaller sizes at hardware stores including Lowes and Home Depot. If needed you can trim it to fit using scissors or tin snips that are made for cutting thin sheet metal. File or sand away any sharp edges after trimming it to size. Clean the metal and then adhere it in place with contact cement to the underside of the cabinets or onto the wall surfaces. It is a pretty simple DIY project even for a person with limited build skills.
Cy_5th
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I like this even better. This is something I can do as opposed to getting to the guts of the stove. Give me something to do.
I finding things that I am going to have to maintain in the future and learn. Really learning as I go. Glad there is this forum.
Going to revisit how look at the parameters on the battery.
I will try again to help you understand that there is no need and no easy way to get into guts of cooktop to remove it. It simply is not what you are imagining it to be like. This illustration is a pretty typical installation diagram. The underside of the unit is all sealed up into a case that is only about 2 inches in depth. In fact some drop into the countertop models even have feet on them so there is an option to use it on top of the counter as well as the option of mounting it recessed with the rim resting on the countertop. Have you ever opened the cabinet door and used flashlight to look up at the underside? Are there any ”gusts” visible? Maybe I am wrong about this, if so I apologize in advance. But it is not time wasted to understand the home on wheels you will be living in. The unknown is what is scary when something such as an appliance dies and needs replacing. Knowing you could replace it yourself removes the fears. I am woman and installed all by myself my own ceramic 2 burner cooktop into the countertop when I was 71 years old. A bit more complicated of a unit as it is diesel fueled so I also had an exhaust hose to run through the sidewalk of my trailet as well as a fuel line snd the electrical control panel to wire up the 12v battery and then mount the control panel put into the cabinet face. Of course I also built the cabinet and counter. You can certainly manage to look at the underside of your stove if at 71 years of age and female I could do all of that work. Do not be so frightened, you have a good enough brain for this stuff.
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Cy_5th
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Yea. thanks it's not that I'm afraid to do it. Still my thoughts, I rather have nothing to break. I wish there was a RV training class I can go to,I'll pay, for my type of Class B. I need to be shown things. I am an engineer and at my age - stage -training, is key for me. I don't have a parent of friends to learb from. I am visual learner and listener. Some can just see it and figure it out. Not me.
Like how to get to the waterless P trap under the the sink? If am shown or have detail instructions, I should be good. The Ethos manual don't really show you this. Like how to get these cabinet drawers off the rollers. Lol. I don't want to break anything. I could probably see the "guts" of the stove.
I'm going to be asking alot of questions.
Like how to get to the waterless P trap under the the sink? If am shown or have detail instructions, I should be good. The Ethos manual don't really show you this. Like how to get these cabinet drawers off the rollers. Lol. I don't want to break anything. I could probably see the "guts" of the stove.
I'm going to be asking alot of questions.
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Escapees has RV University. If you join Escapees for $50, all classes are free.
Getting the drawers out is dependent on the style of drawer slides. An answer which I know is not at all helpful in solving the problem. So that means the easiest way for you to get our advice on it is to pull out a drawer and look at it. Is there a metal slide fitting on the side of the drawer? If yes then post a photo of that side of the drawer as there are a couple of styles of side mount slides and how they release is different.
If you see no metal slides on the sides that means you have a bottom mount drawer slide. Again there are a couple of types. Do you feel a long metal track under there? Or do you feel pretty much nothing but the bottom of the drawer?
So help us narrow it down so we can link you to the right instructions to remove the drawer. Engineers are good at analytical thinking.
Now for the instructions for your waterless P trap. Go to this website they have links to the YouTube videos that discuss the project as well as show how to install it
https://hepvo.com/resources/videos/
Be aware that sometimes plumbing that seems simple requires a number of trips to the local hardware store. That is sometimes just how it is when installing plumbing variations under a sink.
I have lost count of how many sinks and sink drains and faucets and hoses I have installed and replaced over the years. But I did install a Hepvo waterless P trap in my own trailer. It works fine.
https://hepvo.com/resources/videos/
Be aware that sometimes plumbing that seems simple requires a number of trips to the local hardware store. That is sometimes just how it is when installing plumbing variations under a sink.
I have lost count of how many sinks and sink drains and faucets and hoses I have installed and replaced over the years. But I did install a Hepvo waterless P trap in my own trailer. It works fine.
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Cy_5th
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Works very well I like it.
And I will do the aluminumtin and paste under the cabinets you see. It's not a priority now got other things on my mind.
Definitely will shield the under of the cabinet.
I also need a foot guard for the fridge that's another thing I want to make
Going to cook a scramble tomorrow.
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Perfect!
Cy_5th
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