RV Repair - This really sucks!

[taketimeforlife]

My RV has a lot of water damage and it's going to take a lot of work to fix it.

I've posted 3 videos of the damage on our blog....this isn't going to be fun!!!!

 

[highdesertranger]

ouch. good luck. highdesertranger

 

[Canine]

So sorry, but I can relate.  My 1982 class C had almost as extensive cab over damage.  With my minimal carpentry skills I was able to plywood and 2x2 reframe and re-skin it, then closed it back up.  Of course, finding and stopping the leak was #1 job, a hose test showed the window was the culprit, next most leaking thing are the oh clearance lights.  

My advice is to ditch the window and patch then get a fiberglass person to coat over.  If you must keep it, it's a constant issue for leaks.  Plan on roughly 2-3 days of 6 hrs a day plus about $500 in materials.  Use only 3/4 CDX plywood, marine grade is even better.  I sealed the CDX with multiple coats of spar varnish and did the same with all wood framing.  (But that was like 1995...)

From "doityourself.com" - sealing marine plywood (or any plywood)

If you have a boat or are planning on building something that will be submerged in water then marine plywood has to be used. The glue that is found in regular plywood will dissolve over time and then fail. Marine plywood is specially treated to withstand years in direct contact with water. You can increase this time by sealing the marine plywood. Just because the marine plywood is treated for use in water does not mean you do not have to seal it. The information that follows will show you how to seal marine plywood.

Step 1 - Sanding the Marine Plywood

Marine plywood, unlike exterior or pressure treated plywood, is 7 to 10 layers thick. The other kinds of plywood are only 3-5 layers thick. The glue is also slightly different between the three kinds of plywood. One of the biggest differences is that marine plywood has no voids in its interior. Like other kinds of plywood you need to sand it down in order to stain, paint or deal it. Use the 80-grit sandpaper to begin sanding the surface of the marine plywood. It is important to sand both sides as well as the edges. Use a tack cloth to thoroughly remove any dust you made during the sanding process. You may even hose it down. Just remember to allow it to dry completely before moving forward.

Step 2 - The First Coat

Sealing marine plywood is a lot like sealing other kinds of plywood but differs slightly. In most cases you would seal one side and be done with it but marine plywood is going to be used under water the water which means everything has to be sealed. Use the foam brush and dip it into the clear penetrating epoxy. This type of epoxy penetrates deep within the plywood and dries clear. It also requires less maintenance than other kinds of epoxy sealer. You can use other marine-grade sealer if you like but you will need more coats and will have to reapply it every 3 or 4 years. Saturate the foam brush with the epoxy and start with the edges of the marine plywood then switch to the face. Allow the epoxy to dry then seal the bottom edge and the back of the plywood.

Step 3 - Subsequent Coats

It's a fact that plywood will rot regardless of what kind it is. If marine plywood is not properly sealed (especially if being used as a hull) it will deteriorate and cause serious problems for you. With normal plywood you would use 2 coats of sealer and maybe even three. A good rule of them for sealing marine plywood is to apply as many layers of sealer as there are layers in the plywood. If you have purchased plywood with six layers then apply six layers of epoxy to seal it. Between each layer you apply you want to gently sand the first. Make sure you use a tack cloth to remove dust."

Dusty

 

[taketimeforlife]

Dusty,
WOW! Thanks so much for the great advice! This beast it really testing my patience!!! The fridge was working on propane but last week went out all together. With everything else going on and the fact that it's 23 years old I just went to Walmart and got a 2.7 CU FT fridge for $79.00 and it's working great!

I'm beginning to think this beast is turning into a money pit! Still need to make the repairs that Dusty provided great ideas on, have to replace the hot water heater and I know there are issues with the windows not closing and sealing completely. Wondering if I should work towards getting something else or keep doing the repairs as they come up?

 

[Canine]

UOnly you know if the floor plan works well, and only you know your budget and ability and time to fix things.  Personally, I'd have kept the old class c a lot longer except it needed rings which means a rebuild, and I didn't have the money for that.  You should be asking a mechanic for a compression check, which will also show you if you have ring issues, like I did.  I was shocked and if I had known more about looking into engine problems, I'd have never bought it, but it was too late.  

Hot water heaters and fridges are normal wear items.  So is the roof top ac unit.  You have to plan on or budget for all that within say 3 years.  Same with redoing the drum brakes, wheel bearings, all fluid changes, front windshield replacement and ALL RUBBER components underneath the hood and in the suspension.  It's a lot of work to redo an older gasser but if you like the size, the floor plan and the overall "look", then it's ok.

Newer units from about 1997 (Ford V10, GM Vortec) on have more powerful motors, 4 speed OD trannies, are wide body (102" vs 96") and are getting away from the ribbed siding look to the flat panel look.  Be advised that you have to check for delamination on the older flat paneled units.  That is almost impossible to repair for any decent price.

How's the roof of your rig?  Is it EPDM (rubber), tin or what?  Each type had its own issues.  I knew nothing about roofs other than it needed re-coating, and I used 2 gallons of some white roll-on roof coating.  It worked ok. Stay away from using clear silicone caulking, it isn't waterproof and is a royal pain to remove.

Then you should consider updating the battery inverter/converter as the old ones do a poor job of charging your house battery correctly. (I never knew that)  Refer to the electrical section of the forum and look up SternWake's many many posts regarding proper battery charging.

Again, if the drivetrain is sound and you don't have any more areas of rot (inspect below your windows carefully and also by your water tanks at the flooring) then I'd probably keep it, as long as you like what I said before.

Don't despair, it doesn't have to be all done in a summer. Just get the rot done first then it's item by item. By the way, it never ends...

Dusty

 

[SoulRaven]

First, I never reframe anything with wood. Use metal or plastic.

Second, I never replace any interior or exterior walls with wood. I only use items that are going to be impervious to moisture and water. I have had good luck sandwiching stiff foam between aluminum or FRP. Line it up, glue it together, then use the vacuum process on it until it cures. The goal is to make it so moisture will never ever damage it again, even if it develops a leak at some point.

With minorly creative use of flashing, it should never leak again.

 

[Canine]

So OP, what's happened to or with your rig?

 

[Ballenxj]

WOW! That does SUCK! Lately I've been watching videos on this so I have a good idea of what to look for when buying a class C.
Good luck to you.

 

[RollinWOT]

In addition to what Dusty said, buy a BUNCH of desiccant packets and lay them out everywhere, and park the RV in an area that gets lots of sunshine. The heat from the sunshine combined with the desiccant will draw out excess moisture. When the packets are filled with moisture, repeat the process for a week. Doing this will draw lots of water out of the wood/air, etc. from inside the RV. That may help to alleviate some of the costs of replacing everything. I had an old Dodge B2500 campervan that had a similar problem. I laid a ton of those desiccant packets out over the course of a week in bright sunshine, and most of the furniture was ok(solid wood, not plywood), I only replaced about a 10'x6' section of flooring after that and some lower sections of wall. Can you give us more detail on the extent of the damage?

 

[Ballenxj]

First, I never reframe anything with wood.  Use metal or plastic.

Second, I never replace any interior or exterior walls with wood.  I only use items that are going to be impervious to moisture and water. 

I have been looking at these repair videos, but I'm starting to think the way those overhead class C, as well as the overhang on a slide in campers are built is something to avoid altogether. Am I just being paranoid? Anybody else have thoughts on this?
Anyway, here is part one of one of the repair videos I have watched.
RV Reconstruction, part one

 

[Almost There]

I have been looking at these repair videos, but I'm starting to think the way those overhead class C, as well as the overhang on a slide in campers are built is something to avoid altogether. Am I just being paranoid? Anybody else have thoughts on this?
Anyway, here is part one of one of the repair videos I have watched.
RV Reconstruction, part one

You're not being paranoid at all.

The problem with the overhead compartments on Cs and campers is that they are not structurally supported well. The only contact points to something structural is 4 or 5' back where they join the upright portion of the unit. This means that the flex and strain on seams is greater than at any other point on the camper. Then add windows that are facing in to the air stream when travelling down the road and you have a recipe for disaster.

I don't think I've ever seen one of those forward facing windows on any unit NOT leak. They put some of them in the front of the fiberglass high tops for on vans too and they have the same problem with leakage from wind driven rain.

It's a rare and extremely well-made unit that doesn't leak within a couple of years. The problem is that the leaks may be small and go unnoticed until the wood is rotten such as you see in that video.

 

[highdesertranger]

almost there is correct. the problem is with the shoddy construction. the newer fiberglass models are far superior to the older wood frame design. this is especial true if you plan on going off highway. slide outs are another no no for off road use. highdesertranger

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

Here's an example of why the overhead cab is a problem:

 

[highdesertranger]

yep that will vibrate to pieces off road. highdesertranger

 

[blars]

No overhang is one of the reasons I went with a class A rather than class C. Lazy Daze gave up on putting in putting in forward facing windows in the overhang many years ago, they just couldn't make them reliable for the long haul.

 

[Ballenxj]

No overhang is one of the reasons I went with a class A rather than class C.  

I think you are right about this. I think the class A's are better built. I lived in a 31 ft Sportscoach for 10 years, with zero issues of leakage.
The thing is, I wanted to downsize, and the class C's have those 19 to 24 ft rigs that look so appealing.

 

[taketimeforlife]

Hey everyone,
It's been a while since I posted an update on my RV repairs. We got the major part of the bed over cab fixed.
Next is the furnace and water heater.

Here are the videos and photos of the repairs...thanks for all the support and feedback!

http://www.taketimeforlife.com/home/bed-over-cab-repairs

 

[Ballenxj]

We got the major part of the bed over cab fixed.
Next is the furnace and water heater.

Progress!