Replacing battery cables, isolator considerations

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I have an early 1999 F450 7.3 w/ two batteries and the cable system is original so I'm looking at an upgrade kit from a local company, link here: Custom Battery Cables

They use these terminals and 2/0 cable.
mil_with_wires_sm-2.jpg


Yeah, expensive, I know.

These are custom made since I want to add a battery isolating solenoid is there anything I may want to consider when I have them made up?

All I need to is room to connect the leads to the terminals, correct? 
Just hoping to benefit, again, from some of you more experienced nomads wisdom

TIA,
Marcus
 
Use genuinedealz.com

Top quality marine specs, charge very little above materials cost
 
These guys are well spoken of, small, local and I can take the truck to them if I need to. Their response time is good so far.
 
All good then.

For a big project I would send out at least a small part to compare.

GD charges $1 per termination. But then you won't pay shipping.

Make sure you use twine run along the actual 3D path, do not estimate, except rounding up, always add some slack extra.

And round up on your wire gauge too, never down
 
John61CT said:
All good then.

For a big project I would send out at least a small part to compare.

GD charges $1 per termination. But then you won't pay shipping.

Make sure you use twine run along the actual 3D path, do not estimate, except rounding up, always add some slack extra.

And round up on your wire gauge too, never down

Twisting the cables to the house battery?
 
the military terminal in the pic is a good thing. get good ones. for a 7.3 I would go with 4/0, I have never heard of that company I will have to study the website more. like John said genuine deals is top of the line. highdesertranger
 
Thanks guys, I'll give the site another go and figure up the cost.
The package I was looking at had 3/0 to the starter and 2/0 between batteries.
 
little tip the cables on the positive should be all the same gauge to keep the draw balanced. you can oversize the grounds but it really depends on the size you choose. I would keep all the positives the same gauge. highdesertranger
 
highdesertranger said:
little tip the cables on the positive should be all the same gauge to keep the draw balanced.  you can oversize the grounds but it really depends on the size you choose.  I would keep all the positives the same gauge.  highdesertranger

So, based on your early suggestion, you'd use 4/0 for everything?
 
You want the starting batteries to be used equally, less power will travel through the smaller cable to the battery post on the battery that has the larger cable going directly to the starter, which causes one battery to be drawn down more than the other which can eventually shorten the life of the batteries. I guess an electrical engineer would be able to figure exactly how many strans more wire you should have to where they would draw equally but most mechanics just figure the factory used the smallest wire that should work, so to make up for loose connections and just general wear, tend to use a larger wire to prevent future problems and make up for poor engineering baised on perfect conditions. Customizing an electrical system to maximize it's efficiency is an art and a thing of beauty when done. It is difficult to route heavier wire and connections shouldn't be stressed in other words it is usually a pain but worth it once done.
 
MaTaLa said:
Twisting the cables to the house battery?
No idea what you mean

String, rope, yarn, talking about measuring the actual path the wire will take when you order custom cables

If you use a tape and come up short not accounting for corners, rise & falls etc big waste of money
 
Twisting means longer wire, shorter the wire the better and seperating positive and negative cables in their own insulated hangers not such a bad idea. If the routing is what you are referring to.
 
For a normal van, 3/0 and 4/0 sounds like overkill. What is the distance for the wire? What are the maximum amperes expected? I use a piece of hose to measure cable routing. Indicates the curves required better than string.
 
weight is right 4/0 is overkill. but I like overkill. I would still use 4/0 on a 7.3. also he gave a good tip about using hose for the measurement. highdesertranger
 
One of the disadvantages of a diesel is the large load that high torque starters and glow plugs put on the electrical system, anything you can do to help the batteries survive is a good thing and jump starting a diesel is no fun.
 
Thanks for all the tips, folks. Got an appt tomorrow to check fitment and am going to see about ordering a kit made of 3/0 all around.

I've got a welder's retractable cable spool, never been used, with 50ft of 2 gauge 225 amp, 600 volt cable on it. If I can't sell the spool I'm going to look at using the cable for my lead from isolator to house bank.
 
if you use welding cable make sure it is oil, gas, and UV resistant. a lot of it isn't. highdesertranger
 
And usually not tinned strands, will wick water like a sponge and then corrode like crazy

I only use UL1426 105c tinned "boat cable"

Most important where exposed to outdoors
 
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