Replacing battery cables, isolator considerations
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highdesertranger
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well check the code on the welding cable and see what it is. it seems to me the welding cable on the retractable spool is worth far more intact then battery cables. those retractable spools are crazy expensive. highdesertranger
highdesertranger said:
Yeah, it lists for over $500, I got it, and a ton of other misc stuff, off of Amazon Warehouse Deals when it first started and there really were some deals on there. Was stocking up workshop/hobby shop type stuff for a remote location build but that changed. I've decluttered to where I just have shop tools left to shed. Got couple 1950's Delta drill presses, Powermatic 66 USA made table saw, late '40's Craftsman 10" bandsaw, etc.
But I digress.
Gotten to where I hate doing deals on CL but got a few more to do I guess.
highdesertranger
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just remember that the scrap value of the copper is probably a couple hundred bucks. highdesertranger
Well, I got a set of 2/0, w/ a 3/0 starter connect. Factory is 1/0 w/ 2/0 starter connect.
Vince the owner is a super nice guy, very accommodating and easy to work with. He would have made me whatever I wanted but he had a set like I got made up already and the 3/0 set would have taken another day or so. The household I'm currently in uses my two vehicles and the car's fuel system started spraying fuel from a commonly occurring problem, for that car, yesterday so I chose to go w/ the made up set so we're not out of vehicles for when their work week starts.
Oh well, truck is starting ok for the time being w/ the old set still on. I may hold off on putting the new on till I get the car fixed if the truck continues to start for that long. Then I'm sure he'd let me return the 2/0 pieces and upgrade to 3/0.
One comment Vince had about different gauges in the set was that, re: desiring equal loads on batteries, both batteries will have the same sized cable for ground no matter what gauge starter cable you use. <shrugs> Made sense to me but what do I know.
Vince the owner is a super nice guy, very accommodating and easy to work with. He would have made me whatever I wanted but he had a set like I got made up already and the 3/0 set would have taken another day or so. The household I'm currently in uses my two vehicles and the car's fuel system started spraying fuel from a commonly occurring problem, for that car, yesterday so I chose to go w/ the made up set so we're not out of vehicles for when their work week starts.
Oh well, truck is starting ok for the time being w/ the old set still on. I may hold off on putting the new on till I get the car fixed if the truck continues to start for that long. Then I'm sure he'd let me return the 2/0 pieces and upgrade to 3/0.
One comment Vince had about different gauges in the set was that, re: desiring equal loads on batteries, both batteries will have the same sized cable for ground no matter what gauge starter cable you use. <shrugs> Made sense to me but what do I know.
I missed = what is it you are starting that requires 3/0 cable? If 3/0 positive is required, then 3/0 negative will also be required. If 2/0 negative is sufficient then 3/0 positive is over kill. I would favor 3/0 inter-battery connections, but believe 2/0 would be more than fine.
Weight said:
7.3 Powerstroke diesel
You may be right but with batteries in parallel each battery (2) has a 2/0 negative to frame that would be more capacity than the 3/0 that goes to the starter, correct or no? From factory is similar design only everything upgraded in size, iirc.
Sounds like the bank is wired wrong.
There should only be one of each, same points for both loads and sources, opposite sides of the bank.
This is canon http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html
There should only be one of each, same points for both loads and sources, opposite sides of the bank.
This is canon http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html
highdesertranger
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it's wired right it's the main battery set up on a Ford diesel. John you are thinking of house batteries. highdesertranger
Well, stuck w/ the 2/0 set w/ 3/0 to starter and got it done myself this AM. Unbelievable difference non-corroded larger gauge fresh cables make.
Truck had been sitting for a few days after it wouldn't start. After I finished, turned the key and fired right up w/ starter spinning faster than I've heard it since I got it. I'm smiling. After a few miles it was even better.
4/0 all around would be booger to run. Wrestling that 3/0, just for the starter, in and around, twisting to get connectors to lay correctly was bad enough my hands are sore, lol.
Truck had been sitting for a few days after it wouldn't start. After I finished, turned the key and fired right up w/ starter spinning faster than I've heard it since I got it. I'm smiling. After a few miles it was even better.
4/0 all around would be booger to run. Wrestling that 3/0, just for the starter, in and around, twisting to get connectors to lay correctly was bad enough my hands are sore, lol.
B and C
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Great. Short term pain for a long term gain.
eflyersteve
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4/0 would just be silly. I've built backup ICBM rocket ignition sets that used 4/0 cable. I'm guessing if 4/0 can light off an ICBM, 2/0 should be good for a 7.3.
