Rec's pls: external regulator for large-frame Balmar

[John61CT]

I've got an old 94-160A I picked up for $120, on the way via slow boat. Has dual outputs, but no regulator included, so I'm looking for something good value, to at least allow me to test it.

I see used AS-4s go for <$80?

All suggestions and comments welcome...

As discussed elsewhere, I may end up using a separate, more customizable output controller/charger, so I don't think I'll invest yet in a high-end Balmar like MaxCharge unless an eBay bargain turns up.

Or would it be possible to set up a DC-DC charger with the raw unregulated output?

Right now I'll just be playing & learning, so long as I don't break the alt or kill myself, pointers to DIY cookbooks would be most welcome.

SW, did you ever write up your hand-dialed setup?

 

[SternWake]

SW, did you ever write up your hand-dialed setup?

https://vanlivingforum.com/Thread-Your-Vehicles-voltage-regulator?highlight=voltage+regulator

Here is my plug in, 115vAC charging source Also with voltage adjustment dial:

https://vanlivingforum.com/Thread-My-newest-electrical-toy?page=2

 

[John61CT]

Transpo is quality?

Their "Specialty Regulator" 911-02R

has adjustable voltage (14-20V) via remote-mount potentiometer

15.0 Vset, B-Circuit (whatever that is)

and "Compatible with 8A rotors"

So, compatible with my Balmar Alt?

Seems private-labeled all over the net, including by Excessive Amperage and Mechman, who apparently are well-respected (EA more than MM) makers of custom HO Alts

https://www.google.com/search?q=excessive+amperage+external+regulator

$70-100

--------
Used On: EMV, Industrial, Limo, Marine, Police Car, RV, Taxi Applications 

Terminal ID: IGN-NEG-FLD

Self current limiting to protect against intermittent short circuit

Load dump protection against abrupt full load to no load

Extra filter networks to protect against voltage spikes

Reverse polarity protection

Epoxy encapsulated to protect against moisture and vibration

Positive or negative ground system compatibility

All connections to external terminal

All silicon transistor design complies with federal specifications

Certified burn-in cycle qualified

 

[SternWake]

I once had that VR bookmarked, but the 14 to 20V range was outside my sweet spots of 13.2 to 14.7v.

Might want to browse here:

http://store.alternatorparts.com/voltage-regulators.aspx

Fpr this price, i should get a back up transpo540HD, but I could always hook my OEM voltage regulator back up in an emergency if mine were to fail.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Voltage...ash=item1a1f78a1e3:g:iYUAAOSwAKxWX2mH&vxp=mtr

 

[John61CT]

Might want to browse here:

http://store.alternatorparts.com/voltage-regulators.aspx

Problem is I have no idea what to look for to check compatibility for my Balmar 94-160, or even what categories to browse from that page!

There is an old MC-612 for sale for $150, more than I think I need for now, rather get something really dumb and cheap, save up for a newer MC-614 if it turns out I need the smarts later.

But the window closes on the 612 early AM tomorrow and at least I know that works with my alt.

 

[John61CT]

Picked up TWO MC-614 for $100 on fleabay, $30 shipping.

Leece-Neville labelled, hope not too modded from Balmar original.

 

[SternWake]

Heck of a fancy VR you got there Should have the multi stage automatic qualities you desire.

Good deal, even with shipping. Hope they work properly.

Most of the basic regulators will require 3 wires to actually control alternator.

One always on 12v+ Wire,
One switched 12v(+) wire from ignition source
One Field wire
The VR casing is usually used as a ground, and must be well grounded.

Some other VRs will have separate voltage sense line, but this can be combined into the Always ON wire, So it should be thick so that 8 amps of field current does not cause excessive drop from battery to VR

Your Balmar has all sorts of bells and whistles like two alternator temp sensors, battery temp sensor, and probably two voltage sense lines.

These are really Designed for boats with huge battery banks which can easily overheat alternators in hot engine compartments.

The voltage sense lines are nice because you can get away with thinner cabling as it will compensate, but I would not go much thinner, as heating copper wastes juice.

For max performance keep the batteries and Alternator cool wth additional ventilation.

I'd test both regulators for full functionality so you know you have a functional spare.

I want to buy another Transpo540HD for a backup. While I can hook ,my ECM's VR back up easily enough, I think I would find not being in control as unacceptable as going back to a cooler with Ice in place of a fridge.

Below, Mainesail does some Alternator testing with your new regulator that you might find interesting:



DO beware of the terminology Balmar uses regarding bulk and absorption voltage. It is not quite accurate.


Scroll down to 'bulk and absorption' for proper definitions/ use of the terms in regards to battery charging. Product marketers *******ize these terms.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/effect_of_charge_rate_on_agm_battery

 

[John61CT]

Thanks for all that, and yes I've taken in MS' clarification/rants on constant-current vs constant-voltage terminology.

To be honest don't see how Balmar's mis-usage scores any marketing points for them?

Looks like the LN version doesn't use the same plug style, so glad I didn't get MS to send me the harness.

The sensor wires sure are spendy! I really wasn't intending to get such fancy gear, but when I see caviar at baloney pricing I can't resist.

Here's hoping it works!

 

[John61CT]

Found a real alt shop an hour away, the Balmar alt checked out.

Old-school auto guy, said he'd need time to figure out the fancy VRs, maybe no good? I said I'd email him the tech bulletins from Leece Neville, didn't find any mention of the slide-magnet programming gizmo.

Might need to get it mounted with a motor to play with it myself.

 

[SternWake]

The terminals in the harness likely use quick connects:

I could have bought Ford's connector for 15$, but just ran individual disconnects to the tangs with wires I crimped then soldered then heatshrinked and installed them on my transpo.

 

[John61CT]

Yes the harness for Balmar's is $50+, but the LN version is different, so I figure DIY for now's way to go