Recommendations on securing furniture please.

[PattySprinter]

Recommendations on securing furniture please.
I am moving into the van before I do any build out - I have some furniture and tubs and a bed to put in the van … I have almost everything already lol!
My question is - what is the best way to secure these items until I can get around to a proper build - many months from now …
Thanks!

 

[John61CT]

L track.

Easy to adjust placement as needed, fewer bolts through the floor.

Insulate, get roof / skin penetrations, walls & floor done first.

For real temporary, straps through seat brackets.

 

[PattySprinter]

L track … skin penetrations

Thank you John - I will google L Track.
What are skin penetrations?

 

[John61CT]

For fan, hoses, vents, electrical, roof racks etc, where ever you need to drill or saw through your vehicle's sheet metal.

 

[PattySprinter]

Oh ok - thanks for the clarification. I have a goal zero - going to do the novice route for electrical; not through walls.
Solar is GZ on a tripod.
I was thinking Maxx fan/s too … I don't know why that dicor and butal tape always looks so messy on the van builds I have watched - seems like it could be done a lot cleaner.

 

[John61CT]

The process looks messy but should end up nice and clean at the end.

Most importantly, doesn't leak. But don't put directly over where you sleep anyway

 

[PattySprinter]

Oh LOL! That is very good advice bc I would have

 

[Trebor English]

Consider ratchet straps.  The 1.5 inch wide 10 foot long cloth belt with a ratchet tightening device can be handy for temporarily holding cargo in place in the back of a truck.  They usually have a rating in the neighborhood of 500 to 1000 pounds.  They sould be about $15 or $20 for a four or six pack.  I have found them to be handy, cheap, and effective.  

Some people take a while being frustrated with the ratchet.  Save yourself the time.  Spend 5 minutes sitting down focusing on how the mechanism works.  Before you put a strap on something figure out how it releases.  

Be careful what you hook it to.  Vans have places where you could hook a strap but it isn't sturdy.  With the ratcheting action and pulling on the strap you could bend some metal.

 

[Matlock]

I'm unsure which model Van you purchased. If it's the version I linked to below, the 7th picture scrolling across shows the back interior of the Promaster.

https://www.landers.com/detail-2018-ram-promaster_cargo_van-2500_high_roof_136_wb-new-16786088.html

My temp solution would be to buy a couple 4x8 sheets of 5/8" plywood. Make templates of the interior floor out of large pcs of cardboard. One for the front half and one for the back of the floor. Then transfer that to the plywood and cut/fit to the floor. Just lay the fitted plywood on the floor and fasten anything you feel might move around using L-brackets or D-rings.
Um, brackets/D-rings should be held down with short screws, ya don't want to go through the metal Van floor unless it's permanent and make sure that you're not going to screw into electrical wires or gas tank or brake lines. etc.

I think you'll find that most stuff will stay put without screwing everything together. However, top-heavy items need a strap or bungee to stay put.

Later on when you decide a final layout, you can remove everything, including the plywood, and insulate, paint, etc and then reinstall the floor and go from there.

Just mt ol 2¢
Richard

 

[John61CT]

Remember you are securing for worst case head-on collision at highway speeds, not just the inconvenience of stuff sliding around.

Saying "I'll be dead anyway" is fine, but if others are potentially involved, you want to improve the odds for less than worst case scenarios as well.

Obviously a bulkhead barrier is another approach.

 

[closeanuf]

Check back in when you get done using the dicor and butyl tape.  Getting your fingers in ther is more fun than you can imagine.  Reminds me of my daughter learning how to make cookies from my mother when my daughter was young.  It's fun and you will stand back and admire you works when you get done with a grin on your face.

 

[Beeps and eats]

You can use "L" brackets to hold furniture
And if you think you will be better off moving something they unscrew from the floor and wall and you can shift things until you like the layout. I just put a dab of painters caulk in the holes and add a fresh coat of paint when I'm done. The floor I use brown exterior caulk to hide holes it works for me.

Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk

 

[Artsyguy]

3/4 or 5/8” plywood floor with L brackets and screws. It will hold. Use screws into wood furring strips that have been screwed into the steel vertical beams. Problem solved. No worries.