TheEquineFencer
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- Feb 5, 2015
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I've about finished ripping the interior out of Linda's horse trailers living area. The roof vent leaked and rotted the underlying attachment wood and such out, then the interior roof fell in. It has a 120V 20A male plug inside a weatherproof cover outside feeding into a two breaker disconnect box. They had a single 120V 20A breaker fed from the outside male plug into the disconnect and out feeding the single 120V receptacle. They jumpered the other pole for later adding another 20A breaker to feed the wiring for the A/C unit that she never installed. Previously it just had (1) 120V receptacle over the hand pump sink, (1) 120V wire run to the roof vent for an A/C unit for a future A/C unit, the rest of the switches are for 12V interior lights.
Now here's what I want to do as far as the AC Voltage. I want to power the trailer with a 4000W Onan KY generator or from shore power. For now it will be used as a mobile/portable generator, later I plan to mount it to the trailer. I want to run a 30A "service" to a junction box/disconnect, then have two 20A circuits, one for the rooftop A/C unit I'm going to add and the other for that single receptacle and probably a few more I'll add.
I need some ideas for the interior lighting, I'm thinking LEDs. It already has one 12V light switch mounted on the wall. I'd like to add a few more lights. One has to be mounted under the cabinets I've got to reinstall after they are repaired. We've done away with the hand pump sink.
Now here's the 12V dilemma. We stopped at a place that does RV/Living quarter conversions, they were planning to install some kind of converter box that will switch from the 120VAC to charge the (2) 12V batteries I've got to add. She wants the trailer lighting to be self powered on 12V when it either unhooked or powered from 120VAC and also can be run from the trailer light cord when it's plugged into the truck or running on generator power. I guess this is where the convertor box comes in.
If it's running on shore power or generator power is where that convertor box comes into play I guess. The box is not going to be used to power the A/C unit when all that's available is battery power.
Something that bugs me a bit is the guy at the trailer conversion place said that you do not wire the trailer the same as far as the grounding for the AC power like you would a house. Is this true?? The way it looks now, it was wired the about same. It has a GFCI receptacles inside wired back to the disconnect and is grounded with all the grounds at a common inside the disconnect. Then is wired to the power plug coming in.
I'm open to suggestions and ideas for the wiring. Links to more info and wiring and "convertor boxes" would be helpful.
Now here's what I want to do as far as the AC Voltage. I want to power the trailer with a 4000W Onan KY generator or from shore power. For now it will be used as a mobile/portable generator, later I plan to mount it to the trailer. I want to run a 30A "service" to a junction box/disconnect, then have two 20A circuits, one for the rooftop A/C unit I'm going to add and the other for that single receptacle and probably a few more I'll add.
I need some ideas for the interior lighting, I'm thinking LEDs. It already has one 12V light switch mounted on the wall. I'd like to add a few more lights. One has to be mounted under the cabinets I've got to reinstall after they are repaired. We've done away with the hand pump sink.
Now here's the 12V dilemma. We stopped at a place that does RV/Living quarter conversions, they were planning to install some kind of converter box that will switch from the 120VAC to charge the (2) 12V batteries I've got to add. She wants the trailer lighting to be self powered on 12V when it either unhooked or powered from 120VAC and also can be run from the trailer light cord when it's plugged into the truck or running on generator power. I guess this is where the convertor box comes in.
If it's running on shore power or generator power is where that convertor box comes into play I guess. The box is not going to be used to power the A/C unit when all that's available is battery power.
Something that bugs me a bit is the guy at the trailer conversion place said that you do not wire the trailer the same as far as the grounding for the AC power like you would a house. Is this true?? The way it looks now, it was wired the about same. It has a GFCI receptacles inside wired back to the disconnect and is grounded with all the grounds at a common inside the disconnect. Then is wired to the power plug coming in.
I'm open to suggestions and ideas for the wiring. Links to more info and wiring and "convertor boxes" would be helpful.
