Rebuild 88 honeywell

[VanKitten]

Well, my dream of hitting the road is alive and well.   In no small part because of this forum!!

i am about to begin the complete gut and rebuild from the inside.   Beginning with the water damage

So...as I look at the overall issue, I am trying to think of a good way to prevent water from coming inside and rotting the new framing.   Yes, that could be a problem for a few years down the road, but I want to come up with a good solution to implement now while I have it all open.

Give me some feed back on these ideas.....

 1).  Place a self healing membrane between the new studs and the fiberglass...then screw in from the outside thru the membrane into the new studs.   Issue with this is the MM6125 .... Even if I seal it in from the inside...is it too toxic to even consider in this application?

2).  Precoat each stud with rubber, allow time to air...then install.  Then when screwing into from the outside...it is sealed already.   Same issue...toxic?

Is there a non-toxic or interior solution that I have not thought of?   Anything that would work and be ok on the interior?   I looked at gripset, but cannot tell if it is ok to use like this..paint it on the studs...?

I will go on to install insulation and reflextic barrier...then interior surface of the walls.

I see where the exterior had rubber gaskets along the lines of screws....but I also see this is where failure first occurs (other than roof) too.    Those rubber strips do not impress me as being effective at all

What do you think of this idea?

 

[rvwandering]

I had to search around a bit to find the picture that you posted of your RV. It's very unique! It appears to be in great condition but because it was custom built it may not be constructed like a standard RV. Have you had a chance to open any of the interior walls to get a look at the construction techniques? Fiberglass is most often glued to a thin wood sheathing that has been screwed into the studs. When you have a water leak the sheathing is destroyed and will have to be replaced.

 A rubber membrane on the studs sounds like a good idea but it may not be necessary because there shouldn't be screws through the fiberglass except around the trim pieces. You are right about the trim pieces being the place where failure occurs. That piece of rubber or plastic isn't good for anything. We covered all of the lines of  screws on our motorhome with Ethernabond  http://www.eternabond.com/
You may have to cut the Ethernabond to fit in the trim piece and that's a bit messy. You should be able to use Ethernabond on the studs too if you do decide to put rubber on them.

 When you're doing the demolition see if you can tell where the water is entering. Marker lights are a common place for water to get in and are often overlooked. Also use stainless steel screws if possible.

 Good luck with the demolition!

  I'm so sorry about your Dad. It will be interesting for both you and your Mom if she decides to join you on your trips. We took Tony's mother on several trips after his father passed away. She had never traveled very much previously but she had a great time. We didn't all stay in the RV, though. We always got a motel room for her and just parked in the lot for the night which worked well for everyone.

 

[BradKW]

Without pictures it's difficult to understand what you're asking...I can't visualize why you need to have fastener penetrations at all. Have you considered using adhesives instead? Something like Sikaflex-221 ...

 

[Txjaybird]

   I would really like to see the RV you guys are talking about so I could understand what's going on.  I really like my Aliner however in a few years I will need something small and light weight that doesn't involve climbing on a ladder to raise the roof so I'm thinkin' a fiberglass TT like a scamp so I'm interested in this rebuild.

Jewellann

 

[highdesertranger]

yes could we get some pics. I don't recall either. highdesertranger

 

[Txjaybird]

 AHA I found your thread from when you first got your van.  You are lucky to start from scratch and like you said you'll know everything that's in there and no 2nd guessing on repairs.  I've been lurking on "fiberglassrv."  and finally joined a few days ago. I like the scamps and casitas and that will probably be my next TT.  So anyways I put a feeler out re: your Honeywell and I'll see what shows up and let you know.  Of course you can check it out yourself.  Have fun with your build  

Jewellann

 

[VanKitten]

The RV is currently in NC. On another thread I looked for some help getting it moved over here (Colorado). It is coming here at the end of this month. Meanwhile, I am looking at what to get ordered so I can start as soon as it arrives.

I am going to take the suggestions I got here....Mom is going o be drafted to organize supplies and help with tools where she can.

So..back to the topic. I wonder...do you mean to glue the exterior fiberglass to the studs?
If the rest of the interior is anything like the back door...it is a simple wood frame (like a picture frame with cross bars). It didn't have a solid plywood backing. But..I also think that back door was not fiberglass. I think the entire top and roof is aluminum along with the door. But, I will have to wait till I get it here to verify that statement.

 

[VanKitten]

Without pictures it's difficult to understand what you're asking...I can't visualize why you need to have fastener penetrations at all. Have you considered using adhesives instead? Something like Sikaflex-221 ...

That looks like great stuff.    I am trying to imagine the exterior fiberglass glued with this to the studs.

The interior walls are seem to be aluminum on the upper part...and the lower is fiberglass.    it seemed to me that I would have to attach the fiberglass panels to every stud for it to be strong enough.(after replacing the studs)

Well, I think I have to wait till it gets here and take lots of pictures to show it.

 

[BradKW]

High grade adhesives have replaced mechanical fasteners in a surprising number of places in the construction and automotive industries. From what you're describing, it sounds like they might provide a nice solution for you. I've been using the Sikaflex 221 in my build and am very impressed with it. 

One downside is cost, as the good ones are $12 to $20 per tube. I used the 221, but considered using Sikaflex-252...if I was doing something without fasteners, I might have spent the extra even tho I have no idea what the real difference between the two are...

 

[VanKitten]

High grade adhesives have replaced mechanical fasteners in a surprising number of places in the construction and automotive industries. From what you're describing, it sounds like they might provide a nice solution for you. I've been using the Sikaflex 221 in my build and am very impressed with it. 

One downside is cost, as the good ones are $12 to $20 per tube. I used the 221, but considered using Sikaflex-252...if I was doing something without fasteners, I might have spent the extra even tho I have no idea what the real difference between the two are...

I am looking at sikaflex.    It seems the answer for me.   Since it is likely I will be attaching the fiber glass (skin) directly to the new studs.   Hate the idea of all those screws!

I can hardly wait to get my hands on it now.   A few more weeks, and I can finally start to do my own work and really move forward.   Thanks for the help!