Mobilesport
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[HOW TO ULTRA LIGHT & STRONG CABINETS FOAM, added by mod]
really nice cabinet building method
- Thread starter Mobilesport
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WriterMs
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It's good to have a description for those who want to know what a link goes to before using their perhaps limited bandwidth.
This is a discussion and demo of using Expanded Foam board to construct very light weight "cabinets" -- or maybe divider cubbies for a van or other space needing extreme lightweight.
I think it is just under 18 minutes.
This is a discussion and demo of using Expanded Foam board to construct very light weight "cabinets" -- or maybe divider cubbies for a van or other space needing extreme lightweight.
I think it is just under 18 minutes.
highdesertranger
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Mobilesport, please always include a written description when posting links to videos. highdesertranger
Reducto
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I like it! Seems strong enough for things that aren't too heavy like tools or canned goods. I like that it seems easily doable on the road.
Could also be good for a wall material. I've had bare foil-backed foam as my wall material for some time and it holds up pretty well but this would give a better appearance. When it does get damaged, just cut it out and glue a new piece in!
I did not know gorilla glue worked on foam boards. Good to know! Many glues just eat through foam.
Could also be good for a wall material. I've had bare foil-backed foam as my wall material for some time and it holds up pretty well but this would give a better appearance. When it does get damaged, just cut it out and glue a new piece in!
I did not know gorilla glue worked on foam boards. Good to know! Many glues just eat through foam.
Mobilesport
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RVTravel said:
Ask about it in the comments section under the video.
His next video is supposed to show how to make it have a nice smooth looking outer surface.
TooManyDogs
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This sounds like Via Vacavi's build on his conversion.
I wonder if the method using the 1/2" styrofoam would be strong enough to span the width of an Econoline van. Or for building a bed frame (to replace plywood). Should be much lighter.
I wonder if the method using the 1/2" styrofoam would be strong enough to span the width of an Econoline van. Or for building a bed frame (to replace plywood). Should be much lighter.
Suanne
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RVTravel said:
I never saw how much weight they hold, but I did find this video where he shows how he finishes off the surfaces:
And I found this earlier video where it shows some foam cabinets installed in the van:
Interesting idea and something I'm considering.
Reducto
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For spanning long distances I'd probably throw in a 1x2 board at the front of the shelf to be safe. He sort of shows how to include wood in the design.
I wouldn't use the windscreen method for a bed frame but the 1/8" plywood method he mentions at the beginning should work well for that.
I wouldn't use the windscreen method for a bed frame but the 1/8" plywood method he mentions at the beginning should work well for that.
Suanne
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TooManyDogs said:
One and the same ... the video in the OP is of ViaVacavi and his cabinet making methods (see https://vanlivingforum.com/Thread-ViaVacavi-adventure-vehicle-build-log?pid=237366#pid237366).
ViaVacavi
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Sorry guys, I haven't been around much. It's been a killer year at work! I've been meaning to poke my head in here a bit more!
Yep, those were my builds in Jed's videos. To answer a few questions:
- Just plain foam laid up with fiberglass screen seems to hold up to about 20 lbs./sqft with no reenforcement
- If you build a wooden skelleton from 1/2"x1/2" lumber to add a little extra strength, I've seen over 50 lbs./sqft (this is how the Dodge van was built, with a very minimal light weight skelleton). Of course, the overall strength of an upper cabinet still depends on the strength of the anchor point as well.
- It's not apparent in either of the van tour videos, but Jed was actually sitting on the lower cabinets in both videos at one point or another. They didn't budge or bend even a tiny bit.
- Regarding span, since upper cabinets are rarely more than 12-14" deep, it's the width of the cabinet that really counts. The Chevy in the one tour has completely unsupported spans of 6' long cabinets on each side. They have held up fine to about 20 lbs/sqft. The dodge has the entire leading edge of it's 6' span re-enforced with 1/2"x1/2" wood, with vertical risers every couple of feet also using 1/2"x1/2" lumber, and it's so strong that I can literally hang from it.. I think the big thing is to think about the kid of weight that needs supported and plan accordingly. In the second build that I did (the Chevy), I didn't to the wood re-enforcement, because I planned ahead a little better with lower storage for the heaviest items to sit right on the floor.
Yep, those were my builds in Jed's videos. To answer a few questions:
- Just plain foam laid up with fiberglass screen seems to hold up to about 20 lbs./sqft with no reenforcement
- If you build a wooden skelleton from 1/2"x1/2" lumber to add a little extra strength, I've seen over 50 lbs./sqft (this is how the Dodge van was built, with a very minimal light weight skelleton). Of course, the overall strength of an upper cabinet still depends on the strength of the anchor point as well.
- It's not apparent in either of the van tour videos, but Jed was actually sitting on the lower cabinets in both videos at one point or another. They didn't budge or bend even a tiny bit.
- Regarding span, since upper cabinets are rarely more than 12-14" deep, it's the width of the cabinet that really counts. The Chevy in the one tour has completely unsupported spans of 6' long cabinets on each side. They have held up fine to about 20 lbs/sqft. The dodge has the entire leading edge of it's 6' span re-enforced with 1/2"x1/2" wood, with vertical risers every couple of feet also using 1/2"x1/2" lumber, and it's so strong that I can literally hang from it.. I think the big thing is to think about the kid of weight that needs supported and plan accordingly. In the second build that I did (the Chevy), I didn't to the wood re-enforcement, because I planned ahead a little better with lower storage for the heaviest items to sit right on the floor.
This is phenomenal! I can't wait to see other builds. Should we create a thread just for everyone to post their builds out of foam?
I am wondering how long you've had that set up Via Vacavi? Will it stand the test of time? Would the constant banging of cans and such break it down in a few years? Even if it didn't last for 5 years or so it would probably be worth it.
Thanks taking a chance on such a crazy idea and sharing it with us. I believe this is a game changer.
I am wondering how long you've had that set up Via Vacavi? Will it stand the test of time? Would the constant banging of cans and such break it down in a few years? Even if it didn't last for 5 years or so it would probably be worth it.
Thanks taking a chance on such a crazy idea and sharing it with us. I believe this is a game changer.
DrJean
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I think it's a game changer too...for me in the future. Right now my plans are to use my bedroom set... since I won't have any real weight otherwise and the van will be rated for 4500 payload... but I might use this for the overhead cubbys.
ViaVacavi
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Kozi_Kidy said:
This setup has been in constant use since the beginning of May with no issues at all. I don't believe that it will break down - the upper cabinets are lined on the bottom with 1/8" "hobby board" plywood that gives it all the impact resistance it should need while adding very little weight. Regarding the toughness of the foam, I can tell you that I've hit my head on the upper cabinets countless times and it hurts as bad as a wood cabinet!
DrJean
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I am definitely working on this!
Trying to find the curvature at wall/ceiling and height above windows to ceiling of the Transit van HR (inside) so I can at least begin with cutting squares out to shape...leaving too much til "last minute" is stressful for me.
As I think about this.... why can't I use the Glidden Gripper to glue the butt joints of the foam together too, rather than use Gorilla Glob Glue?
It appears the hardest part of all this is the inserts of wood for attaching. Having to have them just in the right places for drilling or whatever sounds burdensome
Is there much of a downside to "just" attaching strips of wood and wrapping them in (after gluing to foam) around the edges from one side to the other, under the screen too? Would thin ply (1/8", veneer) or even another material work?
Trying to find the curvature at wall/ceiling and height above windows to ceiling of the Transit van HR (inside) so I can at least begin with cutting squares out to shape...leaving too much til "last minute" is stressful for me.
As I think about this.... why can't I use the Glidden Gripper to glue the butt joints of the foam together too, rather than use Gorilla Glob Glue?
It appears the hardest part of all this is the inserts of wood for attaching. Having to have them just in the right places for drilling or whatever sounds burdensome
Is there much of a downside to "just" attaching strips of wood and wrapping them in (after gluing to foam) around the edges from one side to the other, under the screen too? Would thin ply (1/8", veneer) or even another material work?
DannyB1954
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Doesn't foam outgas toxic fumes?
