Purchasing replacement parts online, quality indicators?

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SoulRaven

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I was recently quoted a bundle to replace various parts on my 1986 Chevy G20 including the pitman arm, ilder arm, tie rod ends, etc. Several parts were quoted at $135+, whereas I seem to be able to find the exact same part for my make/model for under $12.

Are these parts junk? Are there certain brands to avoid or specifically look for, or certain online stores that are more trustworthy?

My budget is basically nothing and I'm looking to get rid of this van ASAP, but the latter is dependent on someone who's been unreliable in the past so I'm trying to figure out a way to make this setup work however long it needs to. In theory, it looks like I can get these dirt cheap. Would someone mind educating me on the realities of independently purchasing the parts to bring to your mechanic?

Thanks :)
 
If you can get American manufactured MOOG brand parts through Rock Auto, you will be doing good.  

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php

Ust this number for a 5% discount.  That will almost cover the shipping. 

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Your discount code is: 

3166281025617037[/font]



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Bitty said:
In theory, it looks like I can get these dirt cheap. Would someone mind educating me on the realities of independently purchasing the parts to bring to your mechanic?

Thanks :)

For better or worse, the average shop expects to buy the parts at wholesale and sell them to you at retail.  This profit is part of their business plan.  Without this, they would have to charge an even higher labor rate in order to stay in business.  Would you buy bacon and eggs at the supermarket and take them to a diner and ask them to cook them for you?

You might find an independent mechanic, or one that moonlights on the side on weekends, who would let you provide your own parts, but make sure that's understood BEFORE he starts working on your vehicle.

And what happens if he gets your van apart, and finds that the parts YOU provided are wrong and don't fit?  (Happens more often than you'd think.  Manufacturers used to make changes in the middle of a model year all the time.) What if some of your old parts snap when he takes them out so he can't put them back in if that happens?

If the mechanic provides the parts, it's HIS problem, and he has to hustle to find the right parts and finish the job.  If YOU provided the parts, it's YOUR problem, and he'll expect to get paid for taking your van apart, even though it's now undrivable and immovable.

Sorry, I know that's not what you wanted to hear . . .

Regards
John
 
The worst customers to walk into my garage were the ones that got a quote for a repair, then wanted me to use their parts for "their savings".
 
If I am paying $1 to $2 a minute to a person turning wrenches, they are damn well going to use the parts I set before them. :mad: 

I have been ripped off by grease monkeys posing as mechanics.  I have seen people have their vehicle torn apart for a week, and the stealorship unable to diagnose the problem, so they sold them a new vehicle. :huh: (This person was at RTR)  Never again.  

Other members here know I have spent time sitting in the desert rebuilding my motor for $150 in parts rather than having thieves charge me $4,000 for a new motor.  (Thank you Van Brown for the assist!)   

I have left scheduled appointments when the price quoted over the phone suddenly was doubled "Because that is an RV"  It is a Dodge van!  The interior has nothing to do with the basic standard factory running gear!
 
I guess I'm really one of the very fortunate people!

All my mechanical and body work on my vehicles goes to the same guy who runs his shop out of his home garage.

We found out by accident that when he orders parts at our local parts store, they give him their shop discount so he orders, I pick up and pay or if the van is tied up in his shop, I pay, they deliver.

He's worked at both stealerships and a couple of the repair places around here over the past 25 years and prefers to be his own boss. He also does custom restorations on antiques so the body work is top notch.

With no overhead except his wifes' spending habits... :rolleyes:  his shop rate is always reasonable.

The downside is that he's busy as heck, always has a lineup and only has one bay. If it's not an emergency (as in coming in on a flatbed) I can count on a wait time of a couple of
weeks for something to be done. 

Reminds me, I need to thank him again for his great work!!
 
Optimistic Paranoid said:
You might find an independent mechanic, or one that moonlights on the side on weekends, who would let you provide your own parts, but make sure that's understood BEFORE he starts working on your vehicle.

And what happens if he gets your van apart, and finds that the parts YOU provided are wrong and don't fit?  (Happens more often than you'd think.  Manufacturers used to make changes in the middle of a model year all the time.) What if some of your old parts snap when he takes them out so he can't put them back in if that happens?

If the mechanic provides the parts, it's HIS problem, and he has to hustle to find the right parts and finish the job.  If YOU provided the parts, it's YOUR problem, and he'll expect to get paid for taking your van apart, even though it's now undrivable and immovable.

Sorry, I know that's not what you wanted to hear . . .

It's all helpful, thanks. These are important points to consider and I'm glad you raised them because like I said, I don't know much about doing this.

The main mechanic I've taken my van to has been happy to let me remain parked at his shop for several days at a time when my van is undrivable, and he's the first mechanic I was going to consult before even buying the parts so he'd know what I was planning on doing. He invites me to sponge off their electrical power outside of business hours and gave me their wifi password, and in the past has reduced or once even entirely waived the labor fee. That's juxtaposed with occasionally overcharging me when they're having a lean month, so it isn't all roses, but there is a rapport of accommodating the circumstances.

The parts I'm looking at seem to easily span my model year and well beyond in either direction, so I'm less concerned about mid-year changes. However, that would be a really good question to ask my mechanic so I'm glad you brought it up.

There are two other possible mechanics I know of who'd probably be willing to do it, one a former mechanic with an expired license advised on and installed a starter for free (which then broke because they installed too many shims and didn't diagnose the engine timing being off...so I'm not going back to them first).

If I end up still having to pay for one part from the shop because something didn't fit right or whatever, that'll be annoying but somewhat doable if I get a loan friend, provided the other parts work out. The other possibility is a friend could drive me to autozone to pick up a part at less than shop prices (this is what I did for my starter - $70 instead of $400). The main factor here is that there was no way I could pay anything close to 1K.

And to both @Optomistic Paranoid and @ccbreeder regarding profit margins - it may well be a necessary component of their functioning business plan, but I cannot afford to be too principled on this. I wish I could pay everyone what they deserve but the numbers simply aren't there. Bringing my own parts and paying for labor seems a significant step up from showing up on their doorstep and pleading for charity. The other alternative is to keep going until my van breaks down again and then start begging anyone and everyone to chip in to assuage the immediate crisis, and that doesn't sound too palatable either. As a person significantly disabled by chronic illness with $733 income a month and credit maxed out from previous emergency repairs and expensive meds, I often run out of money for food and gas at the end of each month. I do everything within my power to NOT be a leech to society, but when some sort of compromise is being forced by circumstance I seek out the least intrusive way to ask for help. In this case, bringing my own parts. Because if this works then I feel I can hold my head high that I didn't indebt myself to anyone or reduce my dignity to begging. If a struggling business cannot afford to accommodate that then I understand, but someone, somewhere, should be able/willing to stomach making a slimmer profit off me, I hope. :-/
 
One issue I had with my 25 year old car was one mechanic I went to who, while very good at his job, seemed to not like working on it and tried to find excuses not to. He would tell me how hard parts were to find and would either say they were not available or tell me he could only find one which was often low quality and expensive. He told me he would do the work if I could track down the parts, but really it wasn't worth it on such an old vehicle. Every time I was able to find the part in a few minutes on the internet. That $125 you got might have been for parts from the dealer.

Rock Auto is wonderful, great prices and they often have several different brands to choose from. When choosing important parts I'd go to an internet forum dedicated to my specific vehicle and see what has been posted about them. People are often very happy to post when they bought a very cheap part that turned out to be from the OEM manufacturer or an expensive part that failed in a month.
 
when it comes to online parts,cheap parts are cheap,you get what you pay for and make sure you get the right part,returns are not as easy as a auto parts store i like rockauto,lots of pics,numbers and manufacturer info

when i pay for a mech he does what i want or i will find someone who will

tie rod ends and pitman/idler are easy and should solve most of your problems,ball joints are more work = more $$$
 
I use Rock Auto too. And I look for OEM parts if possible, and absolutely avoid anything "Hecho en Mexico"! Big personal problem with that! Avoid anything labeled "Universal" or "One size fits all"...... same thing. Big trouble.
One thing to keep in mind too, is many parts will have variations, if the vehicle has options, like with or without AC, Auto vs, Manual tranny, different engines, so on.....
Finding a really good honest mechanic is difficult too. When I got my E150, I had a problem. Took it to a guy many swore by, saying he was the 'best!'....
Well, a week and $975 later, I drive the van back home. Days later I find it has the exact same problem as before, and he did not do a couple things I wanted done.....
He's off my list...... :(
 
LeeRevell said:
  
One thing to keep in mind too, is many parts will have variations, if the vehicle has options, like with or without AC, Auto vs, Manual tranny, different engines, so on.....

But then knowing all the answers to the questions is part and parcel of owning a vehicle IMO.

Once you get used to sourcing and buying your own parts, it becomes second nature to tell the person on the other end of the line all the pertinent details...year, make, model, engine size, etc. etc.

For a newbie to sourcing their own parts, having it all written down for you in advance and by the mechanic if necessary will make it seem like you actually know what you're doing! :D
 
I try to judge parts by their manufacture, some are the same as or better than OEM and cheaper too. Then there's some that are worse but cost more than OEM.
If I don't know about that particular part I will look up what people say on the vehicle specific forums.
 
The whole autoparts game is one I find infuriating due to reboxing and simply having no idea if the part is actually well made or not.  One does not even know if the brand they thought they were buying is the part they received.

Take for example a tie rod end.

Raybestos professional grade is/was desirable over mevotech or dorman, and cost 4x as much.  Raybestos also has 'service' grade parts which are on par with the mevotech and dorman in price and quality.

So one orders the raybestos professional grade, and the product that arrives comes in a plane brown box with no labelling and appears to be the same as the picture shown for one of the Dorman or Mevotech products.  So did you just pay top of the line prices and receive a bottom of the line product?  You can't test the metallurgy by looking at the product, can't pop the ball out of the knuckle and see if it is lined with plastic.  And you have 4 of the things paying close to 200$ for what might just be 40$ in the cheapest part available.

Now imagine you work in a shop and a customer comes in with the parts of unknown quality.  First the mechanic is taking a chance that the products are indeed the correct ones for the vehicle.  Depending on the wits of the general populace to do something right is not advisable.  Say the vehicle is up on a lift and disassembled when it is discovered the parts are not correct.   Then they must call the customer, explain the parts they bought were wrong, get the go ahead to buy the correct parts at a significantly higher and marked up price than what the customer paid for the wrong parts, and then hope they can be delivered quickly, so the vehicle can be buttoned back up and off the lift and out the door.

Lots of Ifs in that scenario.  Likely the lift is now longer not making the shop any money, and nobody is happy.

Say the customer parts were correct, and fit properly but were absolute Junk, and fail.  The irate customer comes back, raises a stink, and expects warranty service.  Free labor, taking up a bay, and not getting any recompense.  Lose lose lose.

My friend is a service advisor at a shop and he has plenty of stories about nightmare customers coming in with their own parts trying to save money, and it has got to the point where they tell them to take their parts and their vehicle, and leave, and do not come back.  Almost every time they try and accommodate a parts bringer, it comes back to bite them in the ass, So they do not do it anymore, and prefer to lose a customer by refusal, rather than deal with the possible and likely issues that arise from a customer being 'frugal'.

Also, when fixing a vehicle, one takes the risk or forever being blamed for when anything else goes wrong, forever after.  Now mechanics can and do make mistakes, but failures of non related parts shortly after being worked on is also possible.  Help someone out by Replacing the  worn front brake pads, a simple job, and then a week later a wheel cylinder blows out on a rear drum.  Purely coincidental, but the person who could not change the brake pads themselves relates the car to being worked on with the failure, and demands that the failed unrelated part now be fixed on the dime of the mechanic.  It is not possible to convince the irate person that the front brakes pads being replaced,  had absolutely nothing to do with the rear brakes failing a week later. 

So whenever one runs into somebody 'frugal' and tries to help them be 'frugal' it often comes back to bite them in the ass.

"Frugal' clients and customers can simply be nightmares to deal with.   I deal with this doing carpentry all the time.  Somebody wants a number set in stone for job completion, and I've no idea how much work is going to be involved until I rip into something and start the job.  I walk away from a lot of work when I sense the client is one of those.  Even if i try and explain all the what ifs to such a client, they often do not understand that tearing into a project where wood rot and termites have had their way can be a complete can of worms for everybody involved.

I just turned down work yesterday for many reasons, but chief among them is I know the client is one of those 'frugal' ones.

And I need the work.  I do not however need the aggravation, and I am glad I get to choose.
 
cool thing about one mechanic near here, he doesnt mark up the parts he orders. ive seen the order receipt when the guy brought them. i thought that was very cool. Like someone mentioned, his little garage is packed from the second he opens. they usually dont do drivetrain repair etc any more(unless its something small and quick they can do for you), cause they got too busy to bother doing it, with brakes, tires, suspension, inspections, exhaust stuff etc. i think he does mark up in house stuff of course like tires.
 
I'm going to second SternWake. A professional shop has too much overhead and responsibility. Maybe if you have a unusual vehicle and you ask about using owner supplied parts, you could come to an agreement. Mostly not. There are many curb-side auto and shade tree mechanics that are very good and work at bargain rates. They should be your choice. Don't be afraid of making your own repairs.
 
Many shops have become so "professional" that they are running off anyone that does not have a blank check.  That is one of the problems with society today.  They are chasing the big money, and not letting the average person make enough to live like our parents did.  

All for one, and none for the rest. :mad:

I had a professional mechanic I trusted.  I paid his stealorship rates.  One day I went over his invoices, then I went over my vehicles.  Recycled brake fluid, Work not performed, failure to see obvious problems right in front of your face!!!   :mad:

I had brought in a Buick with a vibration, and replaced almost every part at his recommendation. Drive axle, caliper, rim tire, everything but the rotor which he swore was the one good part on that side!  One day the rotor split in half.   

I had brought my van to him to have the brake system checked and bleed.  I pulled a tire to change the rims, and for kicks tried to pull the drum.  Needless to say I had to completely rebuild the system myself, as I could no longer trust him for anything.   :mad:
 
I understand the need to have the job done at a reasonable price, but I also understand he shops not wanting you to bring the parts. I am a former shop owner. also there is a huge difference in quality of parts in the aftermarket. they range from great to junk. for front end parts you can't go wrong with moog. for bearings think timken, for driveline spicer is nicer. most of these parts are still made in the US and if not have good quality control. actually on my vehicle I will not use other parts. for brakes bendix, raybestos, and wagner are good but get the better quality line and get oem replacement, stay away for the fancy stuff they say "works better than oem". I think if you are not mechanically inclined and need advice ask on this forum first because there are a lot of knowledgeable people here. if we don't now the answer we can send you somewhere with more expertise. highdesertranger
 
:D   What he said!   :D

After my experience with the bad shop, I replaced my own Ball Joints. (Moog)  What a pain, but I saved several hundred dollars by doing it myself.  

(and brakes, and so on~~~)
 

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