Public humiliation

[wagoneer]

OK I was really not going to SAY THIS TO ANYONE my simple setup just fried my 125 dollar Morningstar MPPT..... Gee whiz not the brightest bulb in the chandelier... Ignore any advice concerning solar from me. Seems the panel was too hot the controller too small.

 

[BradKW]

Thanks for sharing wagon...that sucks

If you could share more details of how and why this happened, and maybe why it only happened now? Thanks

 

[highdesertranger]

sorry bout that Wagoneer. but can we get some more details. so it's not repeated. highdesertranger

 

[LeeRevell]

Miscalculations happen.  We have all "been there, done that".  Just correct the trouble and carry on.

 

[SoulRaven]

Thank you so much for this post! You are actually one of many, although they are always too ashamed to post that they made a mistake.

Please post as many details as possible, including all damage caused, and costs to repair etc; along with how long the system did work.

This information is VERY VALUABLE to anyone considering solar!

 

[jimindenver]

$125 morningstar MPPT?

I thought the cheapest morningstar MPPT was over $200.

 

[TooManyDogs]

I'm interested in the details as well.

 

[wagoneer]

I got a great deal. As I was saying going commando on the cheap the 36 volt huge panel worked just fine for 2 years then I noticed the fridge was turned off so I disconnected it now this poor little MPPT had no load whatsoever I got in one morning to move "Big White" and noticed a smell like a distinct electrical melt down kinda smell, thinking to myself that's odd. Chasing the smell to my battery compartment and noticed the little MPPT had a distinct light brown look on top like smoke stains. Realizing what I had done the damage was complete. Live and learn gotta sell a toy to replace the all important controller this time with a few bells and whistles Thanks for the sympathy

 

[TooManyDogs]

Since I'm new to solar, let me get this straight:
Your solar panel was wired into the controller but you had removed the load from the controller and there was also nothing wired into the battery. The controller couldn't handle the input from the pv and thus got fried. Correct?

Sorry to hear this but it's helpful to know. I have a pv kit but don't have the battery or frig yet. Was actually going to buy a battery this weekend to "play" with the kit. I'll hold off for a bit.

 

[BradKW]

Since I'm new to solar, let me get this straight:
Your solar panel was wired into the controller but you had removed the load from the controller and there was also nothing wired into the battery. The controller couldn't handle the input from the pv and thus got fried. Correct?

Sorry to hear this but it's helpful to know. I have a pv kit but don't have the battery or frig yet. Was actually going to buy a battery this weekend to "play" with the kit. I'll hold off for a bit.

+1 ...I'd like to understand this better too. From what little I know, I would have guessed that the batteries would boil if anything. I would also have guessed that controller, MPPT or PWM, would have some sort of shut off or fuse if the PV current didn't have anywhere to go.

So since my two best guesses are wrong, I'd really like to know more plz

 

[rvpopeye]

I always thought that the battery was the load.
The controller should go to float charge when the battery reaches full charge.
????? maybe something else?????

 

[B and C]

I always thought that the battery was the load.
The controller should go to float charge when the battery reaches full charge.
????? maybe something else?????

If the battery is fully charged, there is no place for the amps to go and is turned into heat by the charge controller.  Some charge controllers have a "load" terminal to power something and can be used to burn off these extra amps.  Be aware though the load terminals will suck from the battery at night.  It is probably best to disconnect the panels if you are not using any 12v stuff for the panels to replenish.  This is another reason my panels will not be permanently mounted.  A good switch to disconnect the panels when not in use would be good too if the panels are permanently mounted.  The charge controller also needs airflow to cool it when the sun is shining.

 

[Patrick46]

Ahhhhh.....good information!!!

A 'certain' friend gave me some solar panels recently, so this info comes at a good time.

 

[blars]

If the battery is fully charged, there is no place for the amps to go and is turned into heat by the charge controller.

Nope, the controller just doesn't pull the amps from the panels and the voltage at the input to the controller goes up. Voc from your panel is the maximum under normal conditions, but when cold and at high altitude panels can exceed that by a fair amount. 25% is a good safety factor when choosing a controller. Another thing that can kill controllers is heat, so you need to provide enough ventalation.

Wind controllers do need a "dump" load to keep them from spinning to fast.

 

[wagoneer]

blars we talked last RTR I was the guy in the 2001 E350 handing out wire I would like to talk some more hope you can make it you have some knowledge.

 

[B and C]

Nope, the controller just doesn't pull the amps from the panels and the voltage at the input to the controller goes up.  Voc from your panel is the maximum under normal conditions, but when cold and at high altitude panels can exceed that by a fair amount.  25% is a good safety factor when choosing a controller.  Another thing that can kill controllers is heat, so you need to provide enough ventalation.

Wind controllers do need a "dump" load to keep them from spinning to fast.

I guess I am re-confused then.  If the panels are connected to the charge controller and it does not have any load, what burned up the charge controller?  It must of converted some of that solar energy into heat somehow.  Does the charge controller present an open circuit to the panels?  That doesn't make sense either as "something" burned it up.  Lack of ventilation could be the culprit too I guess; but that still means the charge controller was drawing a lot of power from the panels.  (scratching head) :s

 

[GotSmart]

I have been trying to figure this one out myself.  The Charge Controller  should have controlled the charge and shut off when the battery was full. 

Unless it had a defect and shorted out.

 

[rvpopeye]

That's where I was thinking.
One of the components went belly up!
Possible warranty covered ?

 

[GotSmart]

That's where I was thinking.
One of the components went belly up!
Possible warranty covered ?

Wagoneer mentioned that it was 2 years old.  Most I am familiar with have a 1 year warranty.

 

[wayne49]

Unnecessary comment.
-Wayne