Poor man's 1999 F450 Truck Camper Build

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ByeBye

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Hey Folks!
Wanted to record the 'build' so many I can get some different points of view from our more experienced truck campers.

Like many others I already had my truck when the decision to get a truck camper was made. Initially plans were to begin developing a remote off-grid acreage in AZ/NV and wanted a truck up to the task. I searched for 4 months and found one I wanted in Denver, CO. Flew to Denver from Phoenix and drove the truck back. Got 16 mpg on the only tank I checked mileage on, no load. Truck is an XL, no electric windows/seats, etc. 7.3,  manual trans, exhaust brake, 4" exhaust, 11' Hillsboro Aluminum flatbed, 4x4, dually, hidden gooseneck hitch, had 103k miles when I bought it, has 110k now. Still has the original vinyl floor mat that has been kept covered and looks almost new.

Fairly desirable truck/engine/trans combo and it wasn't cheap but at least it's paid for. Had to run it through DOT inspection so I could get a non-commercial tag, got a commercial insurance policy from Progressive, liability and a total loss clause for around $800 yearly





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Going to split up this initial posting as I've had trouble getting 404 error on here when I have a larger post.
 
After a split up plans changed and I began to look for a TC focusing on Alaskan pop ups and fiberglass clam shell construction types. 
After a few months found a 1988 Bigfoot 9.6 that was doable and paid more than I wanted but they're hard to find unless you got deep pockets, which I don't. Drove to Bakersfield, CA area and brought the camper back. Loading the camper was a nightmare as it still had the original jacks of which two leaked, one pretty badly, and the front jacks weren't compatible w/ a flatbed dually. Finally after spend the better part of a day finally got it loaded and strapped down.

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One of the first things I did was run into a low hanging branch, grrrrr..... Got it fairly patched up, for the AZ desert anyway, but the window frame is bent and don't think I'll be able to straighten it. I contacted the guys that originally manufactured the window and they'll fab one for about $170 + shipping. Then I went to a fiberglassrv site and began to learn what I needed to do the fiberglass repair. Since I don't have a place to work I took it up in the mountains one week to beat the heat and got it manageable. Far from a finished product though.
 
Jumping out of sequence here but something I'm presently considering is where I'm going to place the camper on the truck. As it sits I have about 12-13 inches of camper hanging over in rear which leaves about 30 inches between the headache rack and the camper on the bed. I had left it like that for months as it assisted me in hauling/moving larger things as I've downsized. This Monday AM I have an appt to have some work done on the truck and they have a forklift so they're going to help me locate the TC.

So, my options are:
1) Leave it where it's at and utilize the added space between camper and truck, approx 30" x 96" x 40"
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2) Slide TC to where backdoor is flush w/ end of flatbed. How much value would there be in leaving a small lip by sliding an inch or so past flush, any?

3) Slide it as far forward as possible leaving an approx 13" ledge/platform as you walk out TC door and be left figure out how to utilize the platform, i.e. mount spare, bike racks, etc.

At this point I'm leaning towards flush/small lip and mount an enclosure between headache rack and TC, perhaps with water/fuel tank on bottom. 

Thoughts??
 
First of all MaTaLA. I really like your truck. You have the right truck. Not sure about the camper. My thoughts are to move it as far forward as you can. From the way it is positioned in your photos, It will create a high pressure zone at the lower front of your camper. Unless that area is completely filled in. That is the only issue I see. What is unique, is you have lots of storage on the remaining bed. I would definitely think water storage for some of it.
 
One thought is dirt /dust is known to collect at the rear of the vehicle and I assume you are wanting to do some dirt roads. By the way you are by no means poor if can afford that nice of a rig (compliment). I have a truck camper with a rear facing door and the camper ends flush with the bed. I leave my tailgate down to create a small porch, my steps fold up and rest on the tail gate and I still have a place for a 20 lb propane tank a square water tank and 2 five gallon gas cans. If your camper has an outdoor shower being able to wash off the back of the camper and shoes would be a great idea and having a space to stand outside the camper off the ground even better. Do make sure door seals are good and close all vents. I duct tape mine just to make sure if I'm traveling dirt roads for more than a day. If you make your camper flush with the rear I would consider building a drop gate like some utility trailers to use as a porch. I avoid going places with over hanging trees and still manage to back into them! Fortunately my camper is easy to fix.
 
I would definitely move the camper as far forward as possible, and then you'll have a little "porch" on the back. Be much safer than a 5' straight dropoff. Then you also have a place to attach ladders, etc.

I like it a lot. Doesn't look like a poor man's build to me, rather I'd be poor after buying it all.
 
Looks cool...

I can see how it would be difficult to move forward because the shell would run into the truck bed rails. But I guess that you could lower the rails and slid it forward.

What about lateral stability?  Is there a sway problem?
 
mpruet said:
Looks cool...

I can see how it would be difficult to move forward because the shell would run into the truck bed rails. But I guess that you could lower the rails and slid it forward.

What about lateral stability?  Is there a sway problem?

Actually I just measured this AM, before I read this, to make sure but I've got 94" between the drop down rails, the camper is about 91" so it'll fit nicely w/ a rubber stop between the camper and rail. 

Something I forgot to mention, and I'm sure there's others, in the way of a build list is I used 3/4" Tractor Supply horse stall mats on top of the flatbed. Someone had been doing personal training out of their garage, using them for weight mats, and was liquidating so got a decent deal.
Man, I guess I didn't check the weight of those things before I went. They were a 100 lbs each and I had to load them between the camper and headache rack so they had to be rolled a bit. I'm a good size ole boy and in average shape but I'm 66 yo too, lol. 
If the truck was any less of a load hauler I would have gone some other lighter route, and still may, but I want to protect the fiberglass belly.

Stability is excellent, at this point. I have Firestone air bags in the rear and the truck is nowhere near load capacity and with 80lbs of pressure I'm much more stable than vans I've driven in wind, cornering. The previous owner told me he had his shop mechanic upgrade the rear springs to F550 specs, don't remember the specs at the moment.

I began looking at a expedition type rig a few years ago on expeditionportal website and after browsing for a bit knew that if was going to do much off the beaten path camping I wanted to keep center of gravity low. One of the factors in choosing the camper was the light weight. 

I guess when I say "poor man's build" it's because I've spent too much time on expeditionportal. Most of them are at the far end of the scale. But, I have learned a ton there.
 
mpruet said:
Looks cool...

I can see how it would be difficult to move forward because the shell would run into the truck bed rails. But I guess that you could lower the rails and slid it forward.

What about lateral stability?  Is there a sway problem?

Actually I just measured this AM, before I read this, to make sure but I've got 94" between the drop down rails, the camper is about 91" so it'll fit nicely w/ a rubber stop between the camper and rail. 

Something I forgot to mention, and I'm sure there are others, in the way of a build list is I used 3/4" Tractor Supply horse stall mats on top of the flatbed. Someone had been doing personal training out of their garage, using them for weight mats, and was liquidating so got a decent deal.
Man, I guess I didn't check the weight of those things before I went. They were a 100 lbs each and I had to load them between the camper and headache rack so they had to be rolled a bit. I'm a good size ole boy and in average shape but I'm 66 yo too, lol. 
If the truck was any less of a load hauler I would have gone some other lighter route, and still may, but I want to protect the fiberglass belly.

Stability is excellent, at this point. I have Firestone air bags in the rear and the truck is nowhere near load capacity and with 80lbs of pressure I'm much more stable than vans I've driven in wind, cornering. The previous owner told me he had his shop mechanic upgrade the rear springs to F550 specs, don't remember the specs at the moment.

I began looking at a expedition type rig a few years ago on expeditionportal website and after browsing for a bit knew that if was going to do much off the beaten path camping I wanted to keep center of gravity low. One of the factors in choosing the camper was the light weight. 

I guess when I say "poor man's build" it's because I've spent too much time on expeditionportal. Most of them are at the top end of the scale. But, I have learned a ton there.
 
bullfrog said:
One thought is dirt /dust is known to collect at the rear of the vehicle and I assume you are wanting to do some dirt roads.  By the way you are by no means poor if can afford that nice of a rig (compliment).  I have a truck camper with a rear facing door and the camper ends flush with the bed.  I leave my tailgate down to create a small porch, my steps fold up and rest on the tail gate and I still have a place for a 20 lb propane tank a square water tank and 2 five gallon gas cans.  If your camper has an outdoor shower being able to wash off the back of the camper and shoes would be a great idea and having a space to stand outside the camper off the ground even better.  Do make sure door seals are good and close all vents.  I duct tape mine just to make sure if I'm traveling dirt roads for more than a day.  If you make your camper flush with the rear I would consider building a drop gate like some utility trailers to use as a porch.  I avoid going places with over hanging trees and still manage to back into them!  Fortunately my camper is easy to fix.

Thanks bullfrog, that drop down has me thinking, that might work for several things. 

I don't have a shower in/on the camper at the moment. This model had a toilet room w/ sink. I removed stool and black tank, be using a diy composting toilet, and am looking at indoor shower configurations that will open up the space more, i.e. curtain on a overhead tract, etc.
 
Never done a "build thread" before but here's the ad for the truck when purchased.

Excellent condition F-450 Ford XL Super Duty Reg. Cab 4x4, dual wheels, 165" wheelbase. Truck has been
completely upgraded.

7.3 turbo diesel with BD Diesel exhaust brake
AFE Power intake system
4" exhaust and superchip - upgrades = approx. 100 additional HP per Diesel Performance in Parker, CO. 
Truck has 103k miles and runs excellent.
Tires are Continental with approx. 55% tread life, dual batteries
new, Hillsboro Series 3000 11 ft. 4 in. aluminum heavy duty flatbed
2 - 30"x16"x16" tool boxes, folding side rails with tail gate, 30k lb. gooseneck
hitch with HD trailer hitch for bumper pull trailers 7 pin plug, trailer brake, trailer tow mirrors

no rust, no dents, , truck has been garaged indoors entire life,

upgraded rear springs to F-550 with Air Lift air bags
new shocks, new seat cover, floor cover shown is stock and is covered by Ford HD rubber floor matt
transfer case rebuilt, 6-sp HD manual w/new clutch, PTO provisional transmission, 4:88 rear axle,
engine block heater, spare tire and wheel, A/C,
am/fm radio cassette, new brakes, front tow hooks, black, 225/70R19.5 with Eagle Flight wheel covers.

This truck should give you thousands of miles with minimal service requirements. Truck has been maintained by mechanic
consistently throughout life. There are no leaks from this truck.
 
QinReno said:
I would definitely move the camper as far forward as possible, and then you'll have a little "porch" on the back. Be much safer than a 5' straight dropoff. Then you also have a place to attach ladders, etc.

I like it a lot. Doesn't look like a poor man's build to me, rather I'd be poor after buying it all.

Lol, well...see, that's me. Seriously. Not a lot fat to trim over here so I'm intending to set up the rig leaving as many options open as I can. Wouldn't have a problem unloading the TC and working the truck a bit, if need be, but not looking to. But I'm only poor in the context of finances. I have all I need.
 
To deal with trees in the woods, maybe you could make/attach something like a car hood boot when on those roads. With 4x4, you basically have an "expedition vehicle" for 15% the normal cost. Nice.
 
I was also wondering, if the camper is sitting on its bottom rather than on the eaves over top a pickup truck sides, then maybe it will be somewhat tippy. Maybe you can reinstall the jacks in the corners of the camper, and seat them on the truck deck. Is the bottom of the camper really stressed to take the full load, without some of the load being borne by the overhanging eaves?
 
QinReno said:
I was also wondering, if the camper is sitting on its bottom rather than on the eaves over top a pickup truck sides, then maybe it will be somewhat tippy. Maybe you can reinstall the jacks in the corners of the camper, and seat them on the truck deck. Is the bottom of the camper really stressed to take the full load, without some of the load being borne by the overhanging eaves?

Not tippy at all. Structurally it seems to be really stout. It'll lift with just 3 corner jacks and you can't tell the other corner deflects at all casually looking. I seen quite few TC on flatbeds that rested on the bed.
 
I've almost decided I want to remove headache rack. I initially started taking the diamond plate side pieces off the sides but the rack is not a heavy duty one and those side plates are crucial to the bracing of the rack so it was leave it as is or take it off.

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Pics of battery cable replacements to be installed Monday

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new Wyth come along to add to recovery gear.

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Another thought for a little later is mounting a Maxx or Fantastic fan in the front window under sleeping area.

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Window measured approx 15x39 inches. Beauty of fiberglass is the ease of customization once the fundamental skills are acquired.
I understand the ideal position is at the top where the heat rises to but just brainstorming at the moment.
 
You might be able to fit two in there! I have a vent mounted on the front of both my trailer and truck camper as I don't like puting holes in my roof. I have a shelf on the inside that a set a Ryobi 18 volt fan on to help with circulation and on the outside a vent cover with the opening towards the ground. It provides some light and a little ventilation with no rain getting in. It is not as near effective at letting heat out in warm weather but works well when needing ventilation for heating with fan on the floor circulating air upward. If that window is sealed in with windshield ribbon seal you can cut it by using a gutiar string as a saw and WD 40 will clean up residue, it is good stuff but pretty perminent as in hard to get off, in fact my vent and cover use no other fastners and have been on there for years now with no leaks.
 
I took the headache rack of a couple of days ago and put it in the storage room. I had thought that if I keep it off I'd sell it as I won't have a place to keep it.

Since Bullfrog, and others, mentioned having a platform I had thought about it some everyday and then this AM in the shower I thought the headache rack may make a tailgate platform.

Going to get it out to the truck and see how it'll fit up in the next couple of days.

My intention is to be more diligent about keeping the photos as attachments so posts are more economical, bandwidth wise
 
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