Plug And Play Panel Connectors

[jwh92020]

I'm building 2 cargo conversions for a convent in Mississippi. They will be used as guest quarters as well as accommodations when they travel. They will be running a 1.7 cu.ft dorm fridge (on a small pure sine inverter), 5 - 3 watt led ceiling lights and a roof charging their phones on a 100 amp hr LifePo4 battery. The air conditioner, lap top and a Powermax converter/charger will be powered by a generator when needed. They want to use 200 watt portable panels so they can park in the shade but still get sun on the panels. What is the best "plug and play" method of connecting the panels to the charge controller? The plan is to use a 20 amp Epever MPPT controller. There will be no roof mounted panel, only the portable. Thx

 

[frater secessus]

What is the best "plug and play" method of connecting the panels to the charge controller?

I think this means "what is a good quick-connect". The standard MC4 are def not intended to be connected/disconnected frequently. The most common solution might be SAE plugs (verify polarity before connecting, as they are polarity-agnostic). There are rubbr power ports for the SAE that will allow them to plug the portable into the side of the van; no wires through windows or doors.

Anderson Powerpoles or similar might hold up better over time; it will be interesting to see what others say. In either case running the panels in series or dropping to 100w (see idea below) would help rein in the current on lightweight connectors.

when they travel

Since this is for travel purposes they might have a better experience with a small DC-DC charger + MPPT combo unit and maybe half the solar. If they drive daily they might not have to set out the panel at all. Thinking Ctek 20A or Renogy DCC30A here; the latter is currently on sale at Amazon for $199.

{Edited to add: both of the examples also maintain the starter battery when solar is present, lessening the chances they would be stuck in the middle of nowhere with a dead starter battery. For other options, see this article on self-jumpstarting from the house batteries.}

 

[Freelander]

I use the SAE connectors to run 12v power to the outside of my RV, I have one on each side. I thought about adding one more for a portable solar panel.

 

[jwh92020]

I think this means "what is a good quick-connect". The standard MC4 are def not intended to be connected/disconnected frequently. The most common solution might be SAE plugs (verify polarity before connecting, as they are polarity-agnostic). There are rubbr power ports for the SAE that will allow them to plug the portable into the side of the van; no wires through windows or doors.

Anderson Powerpoles or similar might hold up better over time; it will be interesting to see what others say. In either case running the panels in series or dropping to 100w (see idea below) would help rein in the current on lightweight connectors.




Since this is for travel purposes they might have a better experience with a small DC-DC charger + MPPT combo unit and maybe half the solar. If they drive daily they might not have to set out the panel at all. Thinking Ctek 20A or Renogy DCC30A here; the latter is currently on sale at Amazon for $199.

{Edited to add: both of the examples also maintain the starter battery when solar is present, lessening the chances they would be stuck in the middle of nowhere with a dead starter battery. For other options, see this article on self-jumpstarting from the house batteries.}

Appreciate the info on the SAE connectors. They will be stationary 90+5 of the time, so a DC to DC charger wouldn't be as valuable as it should be to them. When you're talking about polarity on the SAEs, the one's I've seen are black and red, so as long as + rom the panel runs to red on the SAE cable and red on the power port goes to + on the SCC, and black follows suit on the - side, things should be good?

 

[AmargosaWayne]

You'd think just as I did. SAE connectors aren't unique as anend is either a plug or an outlet. The ends are the same, so red vs black isn't useful. The red wire may have an innie at one end and an outie at the other end.
I inserted an image.

To prevent an accidental grounding of the powered SAE end, the positive should be the innie, and the outie should be the ground.
The device end would be the opposite.

The nice thing about MC4 connectors is that the electrical ends are enclosed in an outer shell for both male and female ends. You'd have to poke something into the connector to cause a short.

 

[bullfrog]

When being used by people with little knowledge of Direct Current I would recommend Anderson Power Poles even though it will cost more. First time someone plugs in wrong could be even more costly. Also plenty of options as far as mounting and connection configurations with Anderson without the risk of shorting things out. As far as several feet of cable I believe Bob Wells suggested using heavy duty extension cords, you could check on his website under "solar".

 

[maki2]

Stating use a "heavy duty" extension cord isn't sufficient information for choosing an extension cord to use for solar panels. You need to specify the AWG meaning the gauge of wire. For solar power panel setups that is going to mean you need to purchase a 10awg cord rated for exterior use. The cable covering needs to be UV resistant if it is going to hold up for use out of doors, exterior rated extension cords are UV resistant which is why you need to shop for one of those. Downside is they are very heavy and bulky and of course there are 3 wires in them and you will only be using 2 of them . Upside is they are more flexible than the solar cable and you do not have those 2 separate wires that are not sheathed as a bundle. Both choices work, so it is up to you to pick your devil to deal with.

 

[user 22017]

I was looking at Will Prouse' page and even the smallest solar set up is over $1,000. With lithium battery it is over $1,700.

Do we have to use batteries? Is it possible to charge a suitcase panel during the day and at night charge phones, laptop, etc directly from the suitcase's attached controller's USB ports?

Will's page:

https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/the-minimalist-great-for-small-vans-and-cars.html

 

[abnorm]

Do we have to use batteries? Is it possible to charge a suitcase panel during the day and at night charge phones, laptop, etc directly from the suitcase's attached controller's USB ports?

NO

 

[JDub]

I'm not a fan of the Anderson's. I like the SAE connectors and I've modded all of my other types with adapters so I'm on the same sheet of music on everything. As noted above, you need to make sure your polarities are matching when connecting. Getting a handful of polarity adapters (cheap) to ensure your connections are correct is a very good idea.

Cheers.

 

[JDub]

I was looking at Will Prouse' page and even the smallest solar set up is over $1,000. With lithium battery it is over $1,700.

Do we have to use batteries? Is it possible to charge a suitcase panel during the day and at night charge phones, laptop, etc directly from the suitcase's attached controller's USB ports?

Will's page:

https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/the-minimalist-great-for-small-vans-and-cars.html

Carla, you can always start smaller and add on. A basic traditional system could be 1 suitcase 100W panels, a 20A MPPT charge controller, a remote status monitor (nice to have but not necessary) and a couple fuses. Add a couple of WM Deep Cycle LA 100 AH batteries (adding battery shutoffs would be handy) also hooked to your alternator and you could probably have a nice new system for about 650 bucks or buy used component and you could get one for far less (recommend you buy new batteries though).
Your inverter would be the wild card in cost depending on what you get... PSW is probably the best for electronics.

A small solar battery in the 300AH range is about 200 - 250 bucks (I have GOLABs) and they're all in one (inverter, AC, DC, and charging plugs) so you just need the panel and cables. It might be the lowest cost system for you. 300AH runs my fridge for almost 48 hours...

Cheers!

 

[user 22017]

A small solar battery in the 300AH range is about 200 - 250 bucks (I have GOLABs) and they're all in one (inverter, AC, DC, and charging plugs) so you just need the panel and cables. It might be the lowest cost system for you. 300AH runs my fridge for almost 48 hours...

Do you mean like a Jackery or Bluetti?

Edit: I do want a small refrigerator someday. Then I'll probably get a small power station.

 

[user 22017]

NO

What can we charge directly from a portable panel with USB ports? The picture on Jackery's site shows a phone and a tablet being charged.

From Jackery's website, about their 100W portable solar panel:

"Solar Saga 100 features 1* USB-C(5V,3A) output port and 1* USB-A(5V, 2.4A) output port to charge 2 small devices directly."

https://www.jackery.com/products/solarsaga-100w-solar-panel
I get it now Missed the text below the pic. It says the panels don't STORE power. But things can be charged while the panel is in the sun.

 

[JDub]

Do you mean like a Jackery or Bluetti?

Edit: I do want a small refrigerator someday. Then I'll probably get a small power station.

They are. I recommend doing your due diligence though. The big names are often not the best value. Look at price, storage reliability ratings,and and output capability, cycle rate till failure etc. There are a lot of decent products out there that you will pay much less for because they don't have a "Name".

Cheers and Good Luck!

 

[user 22017]

Thanks JDub