Can I use a perko battery switch to control which battery bank is being charged by solar? I have one house battery and the other is the car battery. I was hoping to hook up the positive wire from the charge controller to the ‘common’ and then the positive from from the house battery to the 1 and the positive from car battery to the 2. Is there any concern with this approach?
Perk switch charging question
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highdesertranger
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for the most part you shouldn't have a problem. my only concern would be with the charge controller not being connected to a battery for a second during switching. some charge controllers must be hooked to the battery first and the panels second. check with your controller manufacturer. also some battery switches are made to work around this because you have the same issue with an alternator. so the switch holds the connection to the battery while switching. I think it's referred to as make before break. highdesertranger
Thanks for the reply. It’s a the base renogy mppt model. Is there any concern with having it in the all
Position when driving? The alternator is wimpy in these Toyota vans so I don’t want it trying to charge the house bank. In this situation battery 2 running current into battery 1 while the car is running. I guess I can just make sure not to have it on all while i drive.
Position when driving? The alternator is wimpy in these Toyota vans so I don’t want it trying to charge the house bank. In this situation battery 2 running current into battery 1 while the car is running. I guess I can just make sure not to have it on all while i drive.
Is there a switch that goes A to AB to B?
At least one Renogy unit can be hooked up to solar w/o battery and will not explode. The display will indicate that the unit does not have battery voltage and is awaiting battery hookup.
A $5 Chinese charge controller is another matter.
At least one Renogy unit can be hooked up to solar w/o battery and will not explode. The display will indicate that the unit does not have battery voltage and is awaiting battery hookup.
A $5 Chinese charge controller is another matter.
Trebor English
Well-known member
Many people charge their house battery from the alternator. All you need is a piece of wire and a switch. Add a fuse at each battery. When the solar is sufficient turn on the switch.
Voltage sensitive relays turn on when the voltage indicates by its highness that there is a charging going on. They make them that sense only one side or both. A both sense will turn on to charge the starter battery when the house battery is charging with solar or shore power or the other way while driving.
To use the solar to charge the vehicle battery there is no need to disconnect the house battery. When the alternator is being used to charge the house battery there is no need to disconnect the vehicle battery. In both cases inadvertent disconnection without prior connection of the other battery can damage, destroy, ruin, kill, the charging device.
If you have a charging source that is limited you want whatever amps you can get. If you are charging both house and starter batteries the amps taken will be maximized. If one battery is full it won't take any amps so it just doesn't contribute to maximizing.
Presuming both are lead acid batteries, people do this in one direction all the time. You don't need to disconnect either direction. Disconnecting can destroy stuff. Just don't do it.
Voltage sensitive relays turn on when the voltage indicates by its highness that there is a charging going on. They make them that sense only one side or both. A both sense will turn on to charge the starter battery when the house battery is charging with solar or shore power or the other way while driving.
To use the solar to charge the vehicle battery there is no need to disconnect the house battery. When the alternator is being used to charge the house battery there is no need to disconnect the vehicle battery. In both cases inadvertent disconnection without prior connection of the other battery can damage, destroy, ruin, kill, the charging device.
If you have a charging source that is limited you want whatever amps you can get. If you are charging both house and starter batteries the amps taken will be maximized. If one battery is full it won't take any amps so it just doesn't contribute to maximizing.
Presuming both are lead acid batteries, people do this in one direction all the time. You don't need to disconnect either direction. Disconnecting can destroy stuff. Just don't do it.
Trebor English
Well-known member
wayne49 said:
I paid $12 for mine a couple of years ago and it is unaffected by having no battery. The folding portable panels come with that kind of controller so you can charge USB devices directly with no 12 volt battery.
MPPT controllers turn on and off inductors. When a battery gets disconnected the current in an inductor suddenly stops. That can make a high voltage impulse that wipes out the controller. You would have to discomnect at just the right microsecond.
future_vandweller
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highdesertranger said:
A simple solution to keep the charge controller powered during switching is to connect a 15V or 20V capacitor across the CC battery terminals. This will retain enough charge to keep the electronics alive during the switch.
I figured out that "perk switch" refers to Perko switches, such as the 8501DP, which switches OFF-1-ALL-2 which should allow switching between battery banks without interruption to the charge controller.
Arizona Wind and Sun has what you need. They can send you information on how to wire it up with a solar controller.
It is a quality product Blue-Sea-systems-350a-e-series-battery-selector-switch-4-positions-9001e
Here is the link to Arizona Wind and Sun
https://www.solar-electric.com/basw1300amp.html
Amazon has the best price on it and this is a Prime Account item
But if Arizona Wind and Sun is going to do the hand holding then they are deserving of the small extra cost.
Details
Blue Sea 9001e 350 Amp Battery Switch
Make-before-break contact design allows switching between battery banks without power interruption
Ignition protected - Safe for installation aboard gasoline powered boats
Case design allows surface or rear panel mounting
Meets American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) requirements for battery switches
3/8"-16 tin-plated copper studs for maximum conductivity and corrosion resistance, accepts 3/8" and M10 ring terminals
7/8" (22.22mm) stud length to accept multiple cable terminals
Tactile textures indicate knob position by feel only
It is a quality product Blue-Sea-systems-350a-e-series-battery-selector-switch-4-positions-9001e
Here is the link to Arizona Wind and Sun
https://www.solar-electric.com/basw1300amp.html
Amazon has the best price on it and this is a Prime Account item
But if Arizona Wind and Sun is going to do the hand holding then they are deserving of the small extra cost.
Details
Blue Sea 9001e 350 Amp Battery Switch
Make-before-break contact design allows switching between battery banks without power interruption
Ignition protected - Safe for installation aboard gasoline powered boats
Case design allows surface or rear panel mounting
Meets American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) requirements for battery switches
3/8"-16 tin-plated copper studs for maximum conductivity and corrosion resistance, accepts 3/8" and M10 ring terminals
7/8" (22.22mm) stud length to accept multiple cable terminals
Tactile textures indicate knob position by feel only
