pass thru single sheet of sheet metal

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Mobilesport

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I drilled a hole with a hole saw through the top 1x 2 inch tube ( in top of the picture i posted) stuck a 3 inch length of plastic  grey conduit through  the hole and glued it in place with The amazing goop , added a little
spray foam in one side to stop a draft , worked well and I'm extremely confident it
won't fail , problem is that I have a single positive cable coming from the alternator and
it passes through  the battery box through a single  layer of sheet metal , I did use a 
rubber press in grommet but it makes me nervous , I don't  like it at all , I need
something solid that ain't going anywhere. 
Picture of a product would  help alot.
 

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Wow your batteries are only 7 months old?  I know 80% recharges only degrades them fast but your other thread iindicates they are quite compromised.

Like the surepower 1314 automatic solenoid.  I would always recommend that over the 1315.

Spray foam had earned an enemy in me.  I think since your cable runs through plastic you do not have to worry, unlike if the pipe were metal.

in the future thick cables could get a nice pass through. I have used some cord grips on 2 awg cable like this:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Halex-1-...gclid=CP-9js6tvtECFYpufgodNJQGAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds

Another option is the pass through stud like this, but these require 2 more ring terminals, which introduces resistance and more possible failure points:

CW20211__20523.1450509818.500.750.jpg


many years ago, i cut a rectangle through my floor and passed a bunch of cables through it, but I edged the rectangle with a stiff  hose slit up along the length of the metal cut out, and on the cables, to prevent chafing.  There are some gaps around the cables which I just stuffed with foam rubber, but it is not air tight.  but it has also proven problem free and easy to work on.

If i had to do it over, Hmm I am not sure.  Getting the ring terminals through the cord grips might prove impossible.  Not sure i would want the studs for the extra resistance they introduce.

I think a quality grommet  over the cable would do it, with proper support of cable above and below.
 
I bought new batteries today , old ones where still working  but every time 
I charged them they would only last about 4 hours so I would charge them for
 45 minutes and then run my gear another 4 hours , sometimes 
more but I wanted them to give me juice at least 10 hours straight so I
don't  have to wake up at night and charge to keep my furnace going.
 
I like the conduit you used . I have used pieces of heavy duty garden hose and sometimes protect larger holes with slitted hose like SW. (or both , especially on high amp large/heavy cables )
For making pass thru airtight I like to use putty tape (like what they sell for installing vents etc,) .It seals real well and never hardens so can be removed if needed.
 
@ SternWake
I'm thinking of getting rid of that battery separator to simplify my wiring.
My plan is to rewire and replumb my van and make it basic and as simplified  as I can but still give
me everything  I need.

After you hooked me up with the battery chargers I feel I don't need the separator because I
don't  drive much at all but I do idle frequently in the winter.

I find that that separator gets in my way alot of times.
For example ::: if I'm in a charging session with my Genset and high amp output charger and
I decide I want to drive a 1/4 of a mile to a store or somewhere I have to stop my genset charging before
I start my engine or else I would have the alternator output conflicting with the battery charger output.

Also sometimes in the winter I want to start the Genset & charge and plus idle van at the
same time so I can get my front and rear heater cores to assist my propane furnace to
get the interior extremely  toasty warm and then I shut down van and continue  to charge from
Genset and heat from furnace.
That battery separator gets in my way of doing this because I can't charge from the Genset and
and run the van at the same time (again alternator would be conflicting with
my battery charger output..

More reasons I want it gone.
The biggest reason is to simplify my wiring and be able to run my genset & charger and
the van at the same time....

Also: 
Loads down alternator , sometimes belt squeal.

I want to get rid if chassis ground and run automotive zip cord instead.

I now have the solonoid inside my battery box , I'm concerned  it may spark , may not
 be a issue with the sure power 1314a , idk.

I drive very little. 

I sometimes  idle frequently and so I'm concerned about
underhood temps.

Reduces my mpg

It screws up my voltmeter reading because if my batteries are at rest I have the
correct voltmeter reading but if I decide to drive a very short distance now my 
voltmeter is reading a false surface charge and it ain't like I even got much
charging from my alternator in such a short drive.

I think there's more that I can't think of right now.

This isn't my final drawing but the final drawing will be half as
 complicated looking as this picture because all of the grounds will run
 along the positive wires (zipcord)
 

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Mobilesport said:
@ SternWake
I'm thinking of getting rid of that battery separator to simplify my wiring.
My plan is to rewire and replumb my van and make it basic and as simplified  as I can but still give
me everything  I need.

After you hooked me up with the battery chargers I feel I don't need the separator because I
don't  drive much at all but I do idle frequently in the winter.

I find that that separator gets in my way alot of times.
For example ::: if I'm in a charging session with my Genset and high amp output charger and
I decide I want to drive a 1/4 of a mile to a store or somewhere I have to stop my genset charging before
I start my engine or else I would have the alternator output conflicting with the battery charger output.

Also sometimes in the winter I want to start the Genset & charge and plus idle van at the
same time so I can get my front and rear heater cores to assist my propane furnace to
get the interior extremely  toasty warm and then I shut down van and continue  to charge from
Genset and heat from furnace.
That battery separator gets in my way of doing this because I can't charge from the Genset and
and run the van at the same time (again alternator would be conflicting with
my battery charger output..

More reasons I want it gone.
The biggest reason is to simplify my wiring and be able to run my genset & charger and
the van at the same time....

Also: 
Loads down alternator , sometimes belt squeal.

I want to get rid if chassis ground and run automotive zip cord instead.

I now have the solonoid inside my battery box , I'm concerned  it may spark , may not
 be a issue with the sure power 1314a , idk.

I drive very little. 

I sometimes  idle frequently and so I'm concerned about
underhood temps.

Reduces my mpg

It screws up my voltmeter reading because if my batteries are at rest I have the
correct voltmeter reading but if I decide to drive a very short distance now my 
voltmeter is reading a false surface charge and it ain't like I even got much
charging from my alternator in such a short drive.

I think there's more that I can't think of right now.

This isn't my final drawing but the final drawing will be half as
 complicated looking as this picture because all of the grounds will run
 along the positive wires (zipcord)
I would NOT get rid of the Surepower separator. Your worriea about the vehicles voltage regulator and the Charging sources voltage regulator are unfounded, just bump the meanwell opr powermax voltage higher.

  Perhaps put a Manual switch on the line from the alternator for those times you want to run the engine And the generator at the same time.  
Unless you can feel the surepower solenoid switching on and off repeatedly when both are running, i would not even bother with the switch.

You should not be putting so much faith in a voltmeter anyway. They Lie anytime a charging source ot load has been present.

Not sure what you mean about chassis ground and zip cord, the purpose or intent.

Pretty sure the surepower solenoid is hermetically sealed.  They say to mount it away from engine heat close to main battery bank.  If it sparked they would say to mount it away from the batteries.

Squealing belts with depleted batteries, well that could be defeted by the manual switch, But they should only squeal when cold and damp and at higher rpms.  I used to just idle a bit longer until warmer and no squealing.

I just think it unwise to remove a charging source when you need all the charging sources you can muster.  I'd only disconnect ethe surepower if it was switching on and off rapidly, and looking at the sata sheets it says it has a delay programmed in for temporary voltage fluctuations.

I'd much prefer a Dumb solenoid.  On those you can simply add a switch on the trigger circuit, but I hate automatic anything relating to battery charging

I am sure you could sell the Surepower in the classifieds here and buy a high quality continuous duty solenoid for no loss.  Just put an illuminated switch inline on the trigger circuit.  Belt squealing, flip switch off.  Do not want alternator feeding house battery, flip switch off.
 
Mobilesport said:
@ SternWake
I'm thinking of getting rid of that battery separator to simplify my wiring.
My plan is to rewire and replumb my van and make it basic and as simplified  as I can but still give
me everything  I need.

After you hooked me up with the battery chargers I feel I don't need the separator because I
don't  drive much at all but I do idle frequently in the winter.

I find that that separator gets in my way alot of times.
For example ::: if I'm in a charging session with my Genset and high amp output charger and
I decide I want to drive a 1/4 of a mile to a store or somewhere I have to stop my genset charging before
I start my engine or else I would have the alternator output conflicting with the battery charger output.

Also sometimes in the winter I want to start the Genset & charge and plus idle van at the
same time so I can get my front and rear heater cores to assist my propane furnace to
get the interior extremely  toasty warm and then I shut down van and continue  to charge from
Genset and heat from furnace.
That battery separator gets in my way of doing this because I can't charge from the Genset and
and run the van at the same time (again alternator would be conflicting with
my battery charger output..

More reasons I want it gone.
The biggest reason is to simplify my wiring and be able to run my genset & charger and
the van at the same time....

Also: 
Loads down alternator , sometimes belt squeal.

I want to get rid if chassis ground and run automotive zip cord instead.

I now have the solonoid inside my battery box , I'm concerned  it may spark , may not
 be a issue with the sure power 1314a , idk.

I drive very little. 

I sometimes  idle frequently and so I'm concerned about
underhood temps.

Reduces my mpg

It screws up my voltmeter reading because if my batteries are at rest I have the
correct voltmeter reading but if I decide to drive a very short distance now my 
voltmeter is reading a false surface charge and it ain't like I even got much
charging from my alternator in such a short drive.

I think there's more that I can't think of right now.

This isn't my final drawing but the final drawing will be half as
 complicated looking as this picture because all of the grounds will run
 along the positive wires (zipcord)

Locked up
 
I believe I was able to get rid of the post that was locking this thread. Please report again if it continues to act up. Thanks.
 
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